Just replaced the water pump due to weep hole spewing water/radiator fluid/tester dye.

Now upon start, with radiator cap off, radiator fluid gushes out...

With cap on, and spark plugs out, small amount of radiator fluid came out of cylinders.

Is this the head gasket? What's the easiest way to tell if it's the head gaskets or a cracked head? What other problems may this describe (manifold?),

what other information may you need from me to help pinpoint the problem as I am willing to do whatever it takes (If it's the gasket I will perform this fix by myself)

 

additional information:

radiator cap off, spark plugs in, turn engine, rubber plug over spark plug will pop oout despite spark plugs in and clicked shut.

There is no water/radiator fluid in oil.

There is no oil in the water/radiator fluid

 

Do a compression test, better yet do a leak-down test. This will show if their is a problem with cylinder sealing.

Crap shot theory. Leaking WP allowed air into the system. Temperture gauge only measured air temp not coolant. Head overheated and possibly warped/cracked. Now you have coolant in the cylinder(s).

 

Did it run hot before you replaced the waterpump? If so possible blown head gasket.

 

my thoughts^^

 

welp guys it appeared to be a warped head. Brought it to my local machine shop (Loop Auto in Garner NC) and they had it shaved for me within a few hours. But now I am trying to figure out the foot pounds for the headbolts and the tightening sequence. Anyone know for my engine? Can someone confirm if mine is the VTEC-B16A3 engine?

or maybe it's F22B1 VTEC? idk

 

Use star method criss crossing...from furthest corners first. Get them all snug...then repeat several times until it is all fairly tight.
Then throw your arm into torque wrench setting and feel out your torque to "Put your back into it but don't throw it out" level.
Then after you've ran thru all the bolts with that second to last session.
Ratchet up to almost chanelling god level for final pass. (NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH ACTUALLY CHANNELING GOD)

This method has always worked solidly for me....when I cannot find the info handy. Or a manuf...just does not make the info an easy find.

Don't use the cheap head gasket in this case.

 

so according to you I feel out the torque to pretty much as hard as i can do it without hurting myself, then "rachet up to" ... what is "up"?, I have yet to use a precision torque wrench so I don't know the change in settings.

 

Here, follow this link all the info you should need is in it. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2335661 For future reference look in the FAQ section.

 

How did Loop Auto treat you? I wonder because I've been using a shop in Wake Forest but the ownership has changed and I'm not realy pleased with them since......

 

Loop Auto is great, it only cost me 25 dollars to get my head shaved (and I left them it with the studs in as well - I think it costs 20 dollars with the studs out). It was done the by the next morning. The place seemed cool, almost like one of those shops you want to video-record and put on History or Discovery channel.


Little update- Car is completely fixed and has been driven hundreds of miles since the repair. No more fluid flows out of the spark plugs or radiator cap (if open on car start). Turned out to be a warped head, removed head, brought to shop, got it shaved, installed head with proper torque measures and tightening sequence. Ended the job with a new water outlet gasket due to tiny radiator fluid leak there. very easy.

 

Hey thanks for the update, no only the shop but the car as well. Next time I "play" with the Chevelle I might give them a shot.