My speedo and odometer just quit working today and at random times it starts jumping...and odometer will work just for a min...what could be causing this?

 

Search for "vehicle speed sensor" using the search (then advanced search) in the little gray bar (NOT the box at the top right.)

 

did you check the fuse?

 

Yea checked fuse and the cable...both were fine

 

And the VSS?

 

No not that yet

 

Car information? CEL codes?

 

Is your odometer turning when your speedo is not working?

 

yeah pull the codes it will tell you if its VSS

 

my car did the same thing , juss find a cluster with a tach and plug the new one in . plugs rite in and it'll fix it !
every person ive talked to tht had a cluster with no tach has had this problem.
jusst my 2 cents

 

It has the tach...and now there's a new problem...the idle is messing up and at night causes my headlights to dim and go back, dim and go back, etc over and over...I'm gonna pull the cel codes again...it was on for awhile but I pulled them and it was just the o2 sensor

 

Usually if there is a problem with the VSS the speedo is dead(doesn't do anything) and the MIL light will come on with the PCM storing a code related to the VSS. If there is a problem with the speedo pc board most of the time it will work eratically and sometimes stick at 20mph. Don't buy a used speedo because it will likely give you problems. Speedo heads are an extremely common problem with these cars. Keep your old speedometer/odometer and send me the pc board connected to the back. It just pulls right off. I can repair it for you for $70.00 with 30 day money back gauruntee. For your idle problem check your IACV (idle air control valve) screen. The IACV is located on the back of the intake with 2 12mm head bolts securing it. You can use a medium length wrench to take it off. Clean the screen with brake clean and an old tooth brush. Be sure to blow it out well. Let me know how that works for you.

Justin S. ASE certified Honda/Acura(specialist) master technician, electronics specialist.

 

Ok found the codes...17. VSS, 20. Electrical load detector, 41. Primary O2 sensor heater, 65. Secondary o2 sensor heater wire. I also found out the the 7.5 fuse is actually blowing...went thru 2 of them. So i figured the u2 sensors could b causing the fuse to blow and in return causing my VSS to mess up...could that be right?

 

Which 7.5 fuse is blowing? Is it in the under hood fuse box or under dash fuse box? Can you tell me the fuse description/number slot? Give me that information and I'll be able to help you further.

Justin S. ASE certified, Honda/Acura specialist service Technician

 

It's the 7.5 under dash...slot number 15...it's the VSS, u2 sensor, and something else...so I figured that's what's causing it 2 blow cuz both my o2 sensors r blown...I'm gettin new ones 2moro 2 replace...just seein if that would cause my VSS to not work

 

Click on the Fuse 15 TSB in my signature.

 

Dude I think ur my hero...if u were in Tn I'd give u a freakin hug

 

I was assuming you had a 1994-1997 Accord. I don't think I ever noticed that you posted what vehicle you have. I should have asked you....Sorry about that. I wasted quite a bit of time in typing.

 

Oh dude my bad...I def forgot to post that...thanks for all the info tho guys

 

Guys it's fixed...it was the Intake bracket...I cannot thank u guys enuf for all the help

 

Sweet!

 

How does an intake bracket cause a speedo & odometer to stop working?

 

It rubs on the wiring harness, and rubs away the jacket on the wiring. Causes an intermittent short that will pop the fuse continuously it sounds like. That is what I gather from the TSB. It shows re-taping and extra loom added around the wires around the IM bracket.

 

THAT intake bracket!

 

Hey first post here. Howdy from NC!

I have a problem with my speedometer in my 94 Prelude Si. It always registers exactly 15mph above the actual speed. I have checked it on GPS. I replaced the VSS last week and that didn't fix anything. It does have the correct sized factory rims and correct sized tires.
Is the actual instrument cluster the only thing left it could be? I see some for sale on ebay.

Is it possible to just remove the needle and replace it where it will read correctly? I mean like is the shaft splined so I could just move it back a few notches?

Thanks for any help with this.