Changed Head Gasket & Timing Belt... Car Won't Start
2002 Honda Civic LX 1.7 L engine
I decided to change my own head gasket and timing belt on my wifes car. I did everything "by the book" and when I went to fire it up this morning, it didn't start. You cannot understand how much my heart sank knowing that I ****ed it up.
I don't understand what could have went wrong. I followed everything to a T. This morning I tried to start it and it didn't start it just turned over. So I put a tiny spray of starter fluid in the spark plug hole and it just turned over and turned over. Checked compression after trying to start it numerous times and it's exactly 150 on each cylinder. So there is compression and no bent valves. I don't understand what could be wrong. Obviously something probably pretty bad.
In all honesty at this point, probably have to get it towed to a shop and 3 full days of work, sun up to sundown for nothing.
Here's the steps I did (NOT IN ORDER, BUT THINGS I DID ALONG THE WAY)
1. I got the head machined flat, replaced gasket making sure it was seated properly.
2. Ensured that engine was at Top Dead Center while setting timing belt at lower crank with alignment marks on oil pump. Put tension spring on, made sure everything was perfect then pulled the grenade pin.
3. Turned the engine 3 times slowly to make sure there was no problems with the timing. It lined up each time and did not encounter any resistance from the engine.
4. Bolted the head to torque specifications, exactly in 3 steps as required by the manual and set exactly at 49 foot pounds in sequence.
5. Bolted the valve cover to torque specifications. Performed valve adjustment to specifications both on intake and exhaust side. Turned the engine each time to make sure I was on the right stroke.
6. Replaced all labeled vacuum hoses and connectors on intake manifold. There were a few that weren't labeled but I'm 90% sure I got them right as they seeemed to intuitively be bent in certain areas aiming towards certain connections/etc..
Any ideas? or should I just have it towed?
I decided to change my own head gasket and timing belt on my wifes car. I did everything "by the book" and when I went to fire it up this morning, it didn't start. You cannot understand how much my heart sank knowing that I ****ed it up.
I don't understand what could have went wrong. I followed everything to a T. This morning I tried to start it and it didn't start it just turned over. So I put a tiny spray of starter fluid in the spark plug hole and it just turned over and turned over. Checked compression after trying to start it numerous times and it's exactly 150 on each cylinder. So there is compression and no bent valves. I don't understand what could be wrong. Obviously something probably pretty bad.
In all honesty at this point, probably have to get it towed to a shop and 3 full days of work, sun up to sundown for nothing.
Here's the steps I did (NOT IN ORDER, BUT THINGS I DID ALONG THE WAY)
1. I got the head machined flat, replaced gasket making sure it was seated properly.
2. Ensured that engine was at Top Dead Center while setting timing belt at lower crank with alignment marks on oil pump. Put tension spring on, made sure everything was perfect then pulled the grenade pin.
3. Turned the engine 3 times slowly to make sure there was no problems with the timing. It lined up each time and did not encounter any resistance from the engine.
4. Bolted the head to torque specifications, exactly in 3 steps as required by the manual and set exactly at 49 foot pounds in sequence.
5. Bolted the valve cover to torque specifications. Performed valve adjustment to specifications both on intake and exhaust side. Turned the engine each time to make sure I was on the right stroke.
6. Replaced all labeled vacuum hoses and connectors on intake manifold. There were a few that weren't labeled but I'm 90% sure I got them right as they seeemed to intuitively be bent in certain areas aiming towards certain connections/etc..
Any ideas? or should I just have it towed?
does it have spark? all the grounds for the motor on and tight? i've had plenty of cars not start due to the valve cover ground not being hooked up, but I think those are older cars then what your dealing with
if it has good compression and its in time mechanically then its got to be missing fuel or spark...you only need fuel, air, and spark to run and if your getting good compression test results then I would assume you have air getting into the motor (ie no rag in the intake tube or manifold or anything like that) so you need to check for proper fuel and spark
dont throw in the towel yet, do some more preliminary checks, if you dont have a fuel pressure tester at least make sure your getting fuel to the fuel rail by removing the fuel line and turning the ignition on (be ready to catch the fuel, having a helper is a big plus)
If my memory serves me correctly thats a coil pack car right? you can check spark easily enough with an old spark plug or a screw driver while some one else cranks the car...just be sure your helper is ready to shut it off if it does start...coil voltage wont kill you or anything like that, but if you get zapped it definitely gets your attention
if it has good compression and its in time mechanically then its got to be missing fuel or spark...you only need fuel, air, and spark to run and if your getting good compression test results then I would assume you have air getting into the motor (ie no rag in the intake tube or manifold or anything like that) so you need to check for proper fuel and spark
dont throw in the towel yet, do some more preliminary checks, if you dont have a fuel pressure tester at least make sure your getting fuel to the fuel rail by removing the fuel line and turning the ignition on (be ready to catch the fuel, having a helper is a big plus)
If my memory serves me correctly thats a coil pack car right? you can check spark easily enough with an old spark plug or a screw driver while some one else cranks the car...just be sure your helper is ready to shut it off if it does start...coil voltage wont kill you or anything like that, but if you get zapped it definitely gets your attention
does it have spark? all the grounds for the motor on and tight? i've had plenty of cars not start due to the valve cover ground not being hooked up, but I think those are older cars then what your dealing with
if it has good compression and its in time mechanically then its got to be missing fuel or spark...you only need fuel, air, and spark to run and if your getting good compression test results then I would assume you have air getting into the motor (ie no rag in the intake tube or manifold or anything like that) so you need to check for proper fuel and spark
dont throw in the towel yet, do some more preliminary checks, if you dont have a fuel pressure tester at least make sure your getting fuel to the fuel rail by removing the fuel line and turning the ignition on (be ready to catch the fuel, having a helper is a big plus)
If my memory serves me correctly thats a coil pack car right? you can check spark easily enough with an old spark plug or a screw driver while some one else cranks the car...just be sure your helper is ready to shut it off if it does start...coil voltage wont kill you or anything like that, but if you get zapped it definitely gets your attention
if it has good compression and its in time mechanically then its got to be missing fuel or spark...you only need fuel, air, and spark to run and if your getting good compression test results then I would assume you have air getting into the motor (ie no rag in the intake tube or manifold or anything like that) so you need to check for proper fuel and spark
dont throw in the towel yet, do some more preliminary checks, if you dont have a fuel pressure tester at least make sure your getting fuel to the fuel rail by removing the fuel line and turning the ignition on (be ready to catch the fuel, having a helper is a big plus)
If my memory serves me correctly thats a coil pack car right? you can check spark easily enough with an old spark plug or a screw driver while some one else cranks the car...just be sure your helper is ready to shut it off if it does start...coil voltage wont kill you or anything like that, but if you get zapped it definitely gets your attention
Yes it is a coil pack.
Last edited by deepfriedjinx; Jun 22, 2011 at 10:51 AM.
Question, I tried to align the timing belt as much as humanly possible. Just wondering if it was off by a single tooth, would that cause it to not start? I feel like I aligned it perfectly but just second guessing myself and wondering if one tooth off would create this problem.
When i crank it it doesn't give any sense that it's going to start. It just turns.
When i crank it it doesn't give any sense that it's going to start. It just turns.
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Question, I tried to align the timing belt as much as humanly possible. Just wondering if it was off by a single tooth, would that cause it to not start? I feel like I aligned it perfectly but just second guessing myself and wondering if one tooth off would create this problem.
When i crank it it doesn't give any sense that it's going to start. It just turns.
When i crank it it doesn't give any sense that it's going to start. It just turns.
Check Ground 101 which is the main PCM ground. It's right near the EGR valve (if equipped). If your standing in front of the car looking at the engine it's to the left of the head. Don't mistake it for the heavy braided ground wire. Is your check engine light on(if so what codes)? Does it even come on for a bulb check when you turn the ignition switch in the on position? Let me know once you have that info.
Question, I tried to align the timing belt as much as humanly possible. Just wondering if it was off by a single tooth, would that cause it to not start? I feel like I aligned it perfectly but just second guessing myself and wondering if one tooth off would create this problem.
When i crank it it doesn't give any sense that it's going to start. It just turns.
When i crank it it doesn't give any sense that it's going to start. It just turns.
I am having the same exact issue. I changed everything and completed the job. I don't have tools to check compression or fuel pressure either.
I do know that on the timing belt drive pulley (one on crankshaft p/n 13621PLD013) two of the teeth broke. I believe this isn't allowing the sensor to identify position and fire. Thoughts about this?
Did the original poster, did you ever discover reason for turnover but lack of firing?
I do know that on the timing belt drive pulley (one on crankshaft p/n 13621PLD013) two of the teeth broke. I believe this isn't allowing the sensor to identify position and fire. Thoughts about this?
Did the original poster, did you ever discover reason for turnover but lack of firing?
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