which build would be better too spend cash on.
ive been saving for about 4 years an i have about 12k maybe 13.5 at the max too drop on a reliable all motor setup. i've been doing some research an pricing things out but i cant come up with what i would rather have. my car chassis is a DA. 91 Acura Integra. (RS) is that matters to any of you.
gonna order my swap off JDM Tiger Japanese, would it be better too order a whole front clip from the 90 - 93 Integra witt the b16 $ 2990. about 3200 with shipping
i would save money selling all the parts im not using also in a way, an have mad jdm parts too play with lol.
( if i were too do the b16 build it would consist of )
b16 swap
skunk 2 pro 1s
supertech valve springs
sk2 valves .5 oversized.
supertech ti retainers
cp 11 5 1 pistons 84mm
aebs sleeves
scat rods
ls crank ( so it would be stroked hopefully too a 1.9 ) fill be in if im wrong!
arp everything, head bolts, rod bolts.
acl or clevite nascar bearings thru out the whole motor. not sure which is better.
smsp tri y header
apexi N1 exhaust.
itb's
rc 550's
255 in the tank.
act 6 puck sprung
12.5 act streetlite flywheel.
or my other build plan is H22A Type S $ 2695. about 3 k with shipping.
would sell the h22 transmission they give with it.
( H build would consist of )
sk2 pro 3s
sk2 full valve train ( valves std size hi comp thou, valve springs etc. )
rmf replica header
arp head bolts, rod bolts, etc.
cp 87.5 mm 11;5;1 cp ratio
acl bearings
scat rods
h2b kit
skunk 2 intake mani
sk2 t/b 70mm
rc 550s
6 puck sprung act.
12.5 flywheel
oem honda headgasket
bout would be bolted too a 92 gsr lsd trans which i already have.
my hp to the crank goal is, well i want 335. i pretty much want 300 whp which setup would be RELIABLE in daily driving an would make close too that, care too mix parts around too give me a more accurate number of what im shooting for. if not ive also been thinking about maybe a 55 shot if that, car would be getting too out in north carolina at RLZ.
any feedback would help, thanks..
gonna order my swap off JDM Tiger Japanese, would it be better too order a whole front clip from the 90 - 93 Integra witt the b16 $ 2990. about 3200 with shipping
i would save money selling all the parts im not using also in a way, an have mad jdm parts too play with lol.
( if i were too do the b16 build it would consist of )
b16 swap
skunk 2 pro 1s
supertech valve springs
sk2 valves .5 oversized.
supertech ti retainers
cp 11 5 1 pistons 84mm
aebs sleeves
scat rods
ls crank ( so it would be stroked hopefully too a 1.9 ) fill be in if im wrong!
arp everything, head bolts, rod bolts.
acl or clevite nascar bearings thru out the whole motor. not sure which is better.
smsp tri y header
apexi N1 exhaust.
itb's
rc 550's
255 in the tank.
act 6 puck sprung
12.5 act streetlite flywheel.
or my other build plan is H22A Type S $ 2695. about 3 k with shipping.
would sell the h22 transmission they give with it.
( H build would consist of )
sk2 pro 3s
sk2 full valve train ( valves std size hi comp thou, valve springs etc. )
rmf replica header
arp head bolts, rod bolts, etc.
cp 87.5 mm 11;5;1 cp ratio
acl bearings
scat rods
h2b kit
skunk 2 intake mani
sk2 t/b 70mm
rc 550s
6 puck sprung act.
12.5 flywheel
oem honda headgasket
bout would be bolted too a 92 gsr lsd trans which i already have.
my hp to the crank goal is, well i want 335. i pretty much want 300 whp which setup would be RELIABLE in daily driving an would make close too that, care too mix parts around too give me a more accurate number of what im shooting for. if not ive also been thinking about maybe a 55 shot if that, car would be getting too out in north carolina at RLZ.
any feedback would help, thanks..
so than what rotation assembly would work, because i know you can use the b18c block with the ls crank. what would be good too stroke the b16.
the least im saying would be 285 whp.
the least im saying would be 285 whp.
Spending 14k on a b16 is a joke. Put a k20 in it and leave it stock you'll have about 20 more horsepower than the b16 will ever make with mods, and one more gear.
haha reading owns me yeah
just go buy a k20 type r motor, intake header exhaust maybe a stage 1 or 2 camshaft and you will have at least 220+whp and be ALOT more reliable
just go buy a k20 type r motor, intake header exhaust maybe a stage 1 or 2 camshaft and you will have at least 220+whp and be ALOT more reliable
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As much as I am a HUGE B-series fan, for once I have to agree with my colleagues here, though I'm not sure how well any K-series fits the DA chassis. I'm sure someone else with chime in.
For that kind of budget, seriously a K24 block/K20R head would do WONDERS more than any of the proposed builds you're looking at right now. The best part is, there's very little if any head work to be done, or cams to be used. The real issue is management. K-pro is fantastic for it.
For that kind of budget, seriously a K24 block/K20R head would do WONDERS more than any of the proposed builds you're looking at right now. The best part is, there's very little if any head work to be done, or cams to be used. The real issue is management. K-pro is fantastic for it.
I find it nearly impossible to make that much power out of a b-series. I think you are setting your goals too high. There are only a handful of guys that I have ever heard about that are making that much power.
If you are looking at making that much, turbo would be the only way to go. If I were you and I had that kind of money, I would keep the build relatively simple and buy a gsr motor and build that. Have you been in a car that makes over 200whp?
If you are looking at making that much, turbo would be the only way to go. If I were you and I had that kind of money, I would keep the build relatively simple and buy a gsr motor and build that. Have you been in a car that makes over 200whp?
i got rid of my b16 in my em1. Sadly, but very true no matter what you do to a b16 either jdm/usdm, it still lack torque. you can go turbo, but like i said you will never have torque, like a b18c, b20v, k20. ect.... honestly i wouldn't even waste my time with a b16, people say vtec cracks hard, but thats only because you have the torque lag.
I am not saying that you should get rid of your b16. To be honest, I don't know why everything knocks b16's. I personally think that they are great motors and have built a few in my days.
Since your power goals are essentially unrealistic, I think you are expecting more than a b16 can offer you. So the question comes down to this...
How much are you REALLY willing to spend on parts and labor? How reliable do you want this motor to be? Are you going to use it as a daily driver?
Since your power goals are essentially unrealistic, I think you are expecting more than a b16 can offer you. So the question comes down to this...
How much are you REALLY willing to spend on parts and labor? How reliable do you want this motor to be? Are you going to use it as a daily driver?
Why the **** would anyone want the front clip of a DA? If you want 300whp NA you better start thinking crazy built 2L B series or a 2.4L K series.
300 whp which setup would be RELIABLE in daily driving
Anyway, you need a K to get there with any sort of reliability though...
ive been doing some research an looking up parts an combinations an all that good stuff.
im changing my build up. im thinking going with a jdm gsr longblock will be better too build a 2.0 stroker all motor with 11.5:1 cp should be alright more people chime in an tell me what you think.
im changing my build up. im thinking going with a jdm gsr longblock will be better too build a 2.0 stroker all motor with 11.5:1 cp should be alright more people chime in an tell me what you think.








