This is my first engine Build/Swap and I plan on swapping in a B18B1 into my EG Coupe. I bought the Engine in January 2011 from a guy on Craigslist.




I began to remove the intake manifold, headers, dizzy, and alternator. Then i removed the oil pan, oil strainer and oil wedge.



I then removed the Valve cover.



I then removed the Cam Caps and Camshafts.



I removed the Head bolts and removed the cylinder head.



I forgot to take pictures of the Piston and crank removal, but after i removed those, to took the head and the short block to the machine shop.

At the machine shop I had A Bore/Hone, Hot Tank, Decked, RNR Rods, and ARP Rod bolts installed.

The Cylinder head i had Decked, and the Vales and Seats cut

4 months Later I finally received my head and block from the machine shop.

 

Now it was time to reassemble the Cylinder Head, I Painted the head with engine enamel and installed Supertech valve seals, and my original springs and valves.



Freshly Ground Valves



I also did a Mild Port and Polish

Exhaust-


Intake-


Now i installed the springs, This was a difficult process because i did not have the correct spring compressor, but i managed to do it with out one.



Once I had the head assembled it was time to reassemble the block.

Freshly Decked Head



I painted the block with Aluminum Engine enamel



I first installed the crank with new bearings.



Next I installed my new OEM Pistons and rods with ARP Rod Bolts.



Installed Rear Main Seal
[IMG]http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q419/tboneh2o
/SDC11677.jpg[/IMG]

Installed New OBD2 oil pump, I went with this because they are cheaper and its a Type R oil pump so if i ever go LSVtec I don't need a new one.

 

I then Installed my new oil pick up, i replaced it because it got crushed, I also installed the Oil Wedge



Now it was time to installed the Head, I replace my stock head bolds, with ARP Head studs



Head Installed


I then installed the camshafts, I just used Factory ones. I also painted the Cam gears.



Valve cover installed


Now i just have the timing belt and a few other things, i will probably do that today.

 

looks like a solid start. post some pics of the car

 

Why not change the valve springs while the head was disassembled?
Good start, nonetheless.
Yes, post pics of the car.

 

Ya I know i should have done springs, i wish i would have looking back.

Heres some pictures of my car



Engine- D16Z6



I need to lower it also bad but i want to finish the swap then i will lower it I will post a picture of the Turbo kit when i get it later this week.

 

Not to be rude but i notised in the pic that showed the oil pick up it looks like there is debris in the oil pick up i would clean it before i run a fresh motor

 

^good eye. i didnt even notice that. def clean that out man. cheap/easy insurance for a freshly assembled engine

 

Thanks I did not even notice that in the oil pick up, but I got it all cleaned out. I finally got some pictures of the turbo kit i am piecing together.

Turbo Kit:


T3/T4 Turbonetics Super S, the turbo it tore apart right now because the seals are blown and the turbine wheel are chipped.



Precision 39mm Wastegate:



Log Turbo Manifold made by a local shop, its not stainless steal but it will work for my set up.

 

I got mocked up the turbo manifold and turbo to see what it looks like, I plan on boosting it once i got the engine broke-in and it running correctly.





I started the swap, it took me about 6 hours to get the engine out, this was labeling everything and taking the AC and Power steering out.



Once i got the engine out i cleaned the engine bay out.



I installed the Flywheel and clutch so i could install the Transmission.



The clutch I bought was a Competition Stage 1.5



Clutch Installed


Dropping the engine in




Installed


I got it fire up and it started right up, i had some problems with the Throttle body because it was a GSR throttle body. I just swapped it with a ls and now it is running strong.

 

good luck... I plan on something sorta like that over the winter... how much you have invested so far in the motor? Did you just stock rebuild(I think that's what I read..) if so, why not beef it up a little for the boost?

 

I couldn't afford to beef it up with forged internals because I'm still in High School so i don't have a full time job. I probably have about 1000 invested in the engine the machine shop was about 600 including new pistons, bearings, etc.

 

Now its time for Boost, I am currently installing the turbo kit. I got the intercooler piping all fitted up, turbo and manifold on, and hung my new 3inch exhaust. I also installed my walbro fuel pump. I will take some more pictures tomorrow.

 

nice job i want to do something similar with my ef hatch

 

Here's some more pictures




I got the wastegate,vacuum lines, and oil lines installed.

 

lookin good man. only thing that concerns me is the piping right by the intercooler. on the passenger side, is there any way you could get those two pieces of pipe welded together? and the drivers side, did you put a coupler over a coupler? they look like weak spots to me for the piping/couplers to blow off under boost, especially using the worm style clamps. might want to look into something a lil better for each side and also upgrade to t-bolt clamps. not saying this to hate, just talking from personal experience. you'd be surprised how much difference t-bolt clamps can make as far as clamping force

 

Thanks for the feed back, I will definitely look into those style of clamps and getting the passenger side intercooler piping welded.

 

Looking good except the drain on the turbo. I would clock it so the drain points straight down and shorten the line.

 

Ya i think i will do that, its probably going to be a pain but i don't want to blow the seals on my turbo.

 

Lookin good bro i got a eg si with ls turbo bottom end is build i just got to tune it and paint the car. I also have a neptune tuning ecu in a p28 if your interested in buying 350firm F/s
I just upgraded to hondata s300 cause my boy was getting rid of it so if your interested pm me we can talk more.

 

Yea its really the 90 in the drain line that is gonna be bad for flow. Its not gonna drain well and run back into the turbo.

 

yeah i'd say clock the turbo so the drain is facing straight down, or close to it. do away with that 90* elbow and then shorten the line itself so its as straight and direct as possible and you should be golden

 

It's easy to clock them man, you just loosen the bolts on each side, spin the center to get it going straight down, spin the intake side to get the outlet where you want it, and tighten it all back up. And yes, as they said, loose the 90 as the drain is gravity based. And as for the couplers, the clams you have would work, maybe, but one thing you can do, if money is tight, even though t-bolts aren't too expensive, is just do the hairspray trick. It's already been pressure tested to hold at around 30psi, so just a thought.

 

Thanks for all your help, I fixed the oil drain, and im going to work on the intercooler piping. I also made my a 3inch Stainless steal down pipe, I mocked it all up and got my Dads friend to weld it.

Its kind of hard to see from the picture but i did move the drain. It's not at staight down but its at about a 30 degree.


Downpipe

 

Clean welds, drain looks much better, mine is a 45 off the turbo so I think a 30 would be fine. Looks like its coming along nicely. My car is at my tuner getting the DP welded, and hopefully tuned this week. Have you set a date for a tune appointment?