Hey guys, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1994 Accord EX (VTEC) Manual Trans

I've done a lot of research and been grateful for the information that I have been able to find. I have also noticed there are a lot of threads that never get much information and those happen to be the ones that have similar questions as me.

Since I purchased this car I have, with the help of several write-ups:
Cleaned the EGR (fully blocked with carbon)
Cleaned the FITV, IACV, and TB
Changed the fuel pump
Changed the VSS
Changed the spark plugs
Changed the drivers' side CV axle
Changed Distributor external O-ring
Changed valve cover gaskets

I have the parts for the Timing belt and plan to swap that out when I get a chance. I just need to find a crank pulley tool (i dont really wanna buy one).


Questions:
Is there a key FOB for the 1994 EX? I have power windows, leather, sunroof(moonroof), and power locks. When I purchased the car there was no key FOB, but if there is one I'll want to get one or two. Programming for other cars is easy, I'm assuming its the same with this one?

My A/C seems to be holding pressure. The LOW side line is very cold when the compressor is engaged -however- the air coming from the vents is only marginally colder than outside air. What could be the problem? What else should I check. My fans both kick on and work as they should. The compressor does make a clicking sound (abnormal?)

I have a rough idle which caused me to clean all the intake/vacuum check/etc. Its smoother now, but not perfect yet. The next thing I am doing is burping the coolant. I might just do a coolant exchange at that time. It seems weird to me that coolant could even make the idle rough, but I'll trust what I have read. Any other options it could be? I may need to change out the internal seal on the distributor, I haven't pulled the cap to inspect the internals yet though.

thanks for the help peeps

 

Question #1 - I have yet to see a 5th Gen Accord come with a key FOB from factory.

Question #2 - Be sure to have it on the recirculation with it at high blast setting when using A/C and see if it gets colder from there. If not, you're probably low on charge. It is normal to hear the A/C compressor click with it at low blowing setting as it is a cycling switch setup.

Question #3 - What do you mean by rough idle? Does it idle rough at all times, only at cold, only after it gets warm??? Make sure your PCV isn't clogged/Restricted and make sure that your throttle body isn't clogged because these OBD1 Accords uses air by the blade to keep the car idle

 

#1 - I didnt think there was a FOB, I was just hoping

#2 - I did add r134a and still not like it should be. I'm used to hearing the AC compressor click ON once you push the AC button but this is not just a 1 time clicking sound. Doesn't mean its not normal, but its def. unusual to me.

#3 - It only idles rough after its fully warmed up. I have already replaced the PCV valve and cleaned the throttle body. I'm pretty sure that is not the problem. The idle gets rougher when I turn on the AC - due to the extra engine load I'm sure.

 

#2, also check the blend door adjustment...and be sure the **** is not broken and it really is set to cool....

 

Where is the blend door adjustment?

I removed the **** to double check - it has been glue back together to make it stronger than it was. by turning it it definitely goes hot to the right and cold to the left.

 

the only ones I've seen with keyless is the LX and wagons. i bet it could be wired in. add it to my 96 altima so it should have the same concept. wire it in with the door locks, power, ground, hazard, headlights, lock position. would have to have a service manual to know for sure.

 

Section 21 page 25 of the service manual has the procedure. Basically you need to be sure the two cables are in alignment. One from the **** is closing the "blend" door, and the other is closing the heater control valve...ALL THE WAY on both.

 

I guess I need to get a service manual. I'm surprised that there isn't an online version like I see for most other vehicles.

update to the AC issue: I connected some manifold gauges to the high and low pressure side.

87* outside at 7AM (ambient)
When the system is off they both neutralize to 120-125 psi (both the same = normal)
When I turned the system to high with windows open and recirculation, this is what I get:


Low side: ~44psi


High side: ~220psi


These pressures seem a little on the low side but should still be putting out much cooler air than the 70-75* temps I see.

Blend door still the likely cause?

 

** NOTE **

It seems that my compressor may be repeatedly clicking on/off. Fast cycling every 2-3 seconds. If this is the case - knowing I have 44 psi of freon which is in proper operating range, what would be a likely cause?

 

Those pressures at that temp are a bit high (if those readings were taken at idle). You probably over filled it a little bit when you put some in it. Good pressures at that temp at idle for R134A should be as follows: Low side between 25-35psi, High side between 175-185 psi. You need to clean out your IACV (idle air control valve) screen, are you positive you cleaned it out good enough? You have classic symptoms of a clogged IACV screen. The IACV is located on the back of the intake with 2 12mm head bolts securing it. You can use a wrench medium length 12mm wrench to take it off. It's a little aggrivating but not too bad. You I usually use something like brake clean to spray the screen and an old tooth brush to scrub it. Spray and scrub about 3 or 4 times. If you have access to compressed air blow it out very well. If not, spray it out as best you can or the idle will flucuate. If the idle fluctuates snap the throttle high a few times to lossen any deposits that might be inside the IACV. I'm almost sure it's dirty and not able to compensate for a load. When you turn your a/c on that is a tremendous load on the engine so you IACV is supposed to allow more air to enter the engine. If it is dirty the IACV is opening but air is not able to flow through it. So when your compressor kicks on and off repeatedly that means the pcm is releasing the ground for the compressor so the car won't stall out. Also you need to be sure that your HWCV isn't leaking hot water into the heater core. A good way to do this is to clamp the heater hose coming from the cylinder head to the valve with a pair of needle nose vise grips. Note the temp of the a/c before you clamp the hose. Clamp the hose and run the car for about 15 minutes and note the temp again. If it changes then the valve is leaking and you need to replace it. Clean the IACV screen first before you start messing with the a/c. Hope this information is more than enough. Please keep me posted.

Justin S. ASE certified, Honda/Acura specialist service Technician

 

Justin - thank you for the response. I'll pull the IACV to clean it again, but the screen was not very dirty when I started cleaning it the first time. By the time I was done it was very clean. I think I will pull the throttle body to ensure that all the ports into the intake via the IACV are clean as well.

HWCV - hot water control valve? Is this located on the firewall then? coming directly from the head? I'll give that a try.

I thought the typical pressure levels for the AC @ 90-100* should be around 50-55 on the low side and 250-300 on the high side?

 

I would not pull the throttle body. The only other thing I would do is take out the idle adjustment screw that's located at the top of the throttle body. You'll have to use a flat blade screw driver. Take it out and clean the carbon off of the tip and put it back in. Screw it in about 3 full turns and crank the car. Check your idle, it should be between 750-850 fully warm. If not, adjust by turning the screw as neccessary. Yep, the HWC valve is located at the firewall on passenger side.Typically at an ambient temp between 70-100 degrees the low side will be around 20-35 and high side should be around 175-190. Those pressures are a bit high.

Justin S. ASE certified, Honda/Acura specialist service Technician

 

Thanks. I'll have to evac a little pressure out.

Expansion valve a likely culprit for my lack of cold air? The low pressure side is very cold. I haven't felt the high pressure side - but can only assume its pretty hot after operating.

you say 3 turns for the idle adjustment screw - interesting. It seems like it may be in pretty far. I played around with it trying to see if I could get the idle to adjust but it didnt seem to make a difference whether it was in further or out further. I'll do a little more investigating.

Thank you for your time Justin.

 

Usually if you have a problem with the expansion valve (such as being clogged) you'll see the Low side pressure pull into a vacuum (negative pressure, 0 or below). Pressures tell you almost everything you need to know about how the system is functioning. Is your compressor is still quick cycling? If so, I would try and fix that first and then see how it cools. Your compressor needs to run long enough to cool to a comfortable level. So did you check the HWC valve? What are your temperatures at the vents? Is there any difference between temp at vents?

 

I recovered some of the refrigerant and dropped the pressure to about 30-33 psi on the low side and 210 on the high side. The system is now blowing much colder air than previously. It might need to be dialed in/fine tuned with a thermometer but I'm very happy with air that is colder than ambient now! Consequently, i didnt check the HWC valve yet.

The idle is a little smoother but still not where I think it should be. Seems like there is a little hesistation/bucking during acceleration during high load/low rpm. almost like a vacuum leak.

I pulled the idle adjustment screw - seems to be very loose compared to what it should be? I noticed the o-ring on the screw. I'm planning to replace that out with a new one. Maybe that is causing a vacuum leak.

Once I get this idle issue resolved I'm going to tackle the timing belt/water pump/ etc. The car will be pretty much fully refreshed to perfect condtion once i get that done!

 

glad to hear about your a/c. I highly doubt that o-ring is causing a vacuum leak. I've never seen that. typically on most Honda/Acura cars if you have a vacuum leak the idle will be higher than normal, and if the vacuum leak is large enough the idle will fluctuate up and down. What exactly is your idle at when cold/hot? Like I said it should be between 650-750rpm. You may have an ignition issue under load. A neat thing you can do yourself to see if you have spark plug wires or a distributor cap leaking is to put some water mixed with a generous amount of salt into a spray bottle. Shake it up good. Run the car until warm and spray the water (as a mist) onto the distributor and plug wires. If either of them are leaking externally that trick will usually expose the failed item. Have you done a tune up on your vehicle in recent past?

 

idle is around 750 - i think maybe an engine mount ?

The A/C issue is back - when its really hot outside the air isn't blowing as cold.

Pressure levels were at 45 L and 250 H

I vacuumed out some more and it seemed to get colder at about 40 psi on the low side, but when i went to around 35 on the low side it didnt change all that much from vent temps but the low side tube is no longer as cold as it was. Last readings were @ 35 psi L and 220 H with the ambient temps around 104* (noon)

Do you know what the normal pressure levels should be at if ambient temps are 100-105*?



I recently changed the spark plugs for new NGK v-power. I replaced the external O-ring on the distributor. Its possible that the internal seal is bad/leaking too. I've ordered one of those and plan to swap that out.

What does the salt/water mixture show you? I'll try that out. I didnt change out the plug wires because i was told it had been done recently.

Thanks for your help. very much appreciate the time and effort you've put towards helping me.

 

Salt is a good conductor of electricity and so is water, so when you put the two together it makes a good spark leak detector. If you have an external spark plug leak it will usually show up by arcing onto the salt water. Honda plug wires don't need to be changed as a service item. They only need to be chaged when there is a problem with them. Most new aftermarket sets of wires that people put on are not near as good as the factory wires. Pressures at an ambient temp between 75-100 is going to be between 25-40 on low side and 175-190 on the high side. Is your system R12 or has it been converted to R134A? Pressures will be a little different depending on that but not dramatically different. The sudden change in the a/c cooling makes me wonder if you have an evaporator clogged or possibly a lot of trash blocking the evap fins. I would really love to know the temperature at each of the four vents, that would give me a great deal of info. Also, if you could clamp that HCW valve hose and tell me if there is a difference in cooling. That can make a huge difference is cooling. Another way you can check to see if it's leaking hot water into the cabin that's not as accurate, is stick your hand under the heater core as close as you can to check if it's hot. If you can reach the metal lines and feel those that's always ideal. Do your best to get those temps prior to blocking the hose, block the hose, wait 15 minutes and re-check temp at vents. It is possible that the internal seal of the distributor is leaking, as a matter of fact it's very common. Be sure to look closely at the HWC valve hose directly under the distributor and make sure the oil hasn't leaked onto it and is making the rubber soften and swell. If so, replace it. Keep me posted.

 

One more thing, note the a/c pressures when you first turn the system on and also note them after the system has been running for about 15 minutes. Let me know what they are.

 

I definitely have a leak from the dist. I think it was leaking from the external O-ring (I changed that) but I believe the internal seal must be bad as well, considering there is still a small oil drip and it appears to be coming from the middle/bottom of the distributor. I already ordered a seal for that, it should hopefully be here by monday.

I need to get a thermometer for the air vents so i can give you more accurate information on the air temps. If my compressor is on (I never see the compressor cycle off - its hot here all the time right now).

The car is a 1994 which I believe started with R134a - not just converted. I think 1993 was the last year they had the R12 on the accord...not certain of that though.

 

"tollbooth" not sure if you got a manual yet or not. If not try the site below.
http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals

 

awesome. thanks...ya, i've been looking for one of those. that should be a great asset to have while owning this car.

 

There was a butt load of 1994 vehicles still with R12. That's why I asked. Get me those temps and let me know when you can.

 

I checked to be certain...the car has a R134a sticker on the radiator support, so we are good there.

I replaced the distributor internal seal (which was leaking a tiny bit). It wasn't as bad as I imagined it would be though. I must have installed the engagement prongs in backwards though - since it is cranking over but will not start. I need more time! I tried turning it 180* and couldn't get it to install smoothly and then ran out of time. I'll put it back together tomorrow.

 

The dist should go in "easy"....the "prongs" are "off center" to try to prevent you from putting it in 180 out.....if you are forcing it, it is out. Did you "mark" it before removal? Double check the wires and that are correct, then you might need a timing light.