Hello.I have a 94 Accord LX 2.2 non vtec.My wife said it has be acting up on her,said the RPMs on the gauge would drop off and the car sputtered but didn't die.I drove it for two weeks with no problems at all,so I let her take it last friday and it died on her way home from work.We had it towed home so I can try to figure it out.I tested the main relay,coil,and fuel pump.All test fine.The ICM tested fine too.I cleaned the contacts on the cap and rotor,re installed both and it fired right up,then died after just a minute.It will not start back up at this time.If anyone has an idea,please help.It's starting to drive me insane,and I am not one to just go buy parts just to see.I'm running out of ideas.I think after cleaning the cap and rotor and it ran that could be the problem,but like I said,I like to make sure first.Thanks in advance.

 

I doubt that it is the cap or the rotor, but something that you may have disturbed when removing them. It initially sounds like a fuel related problem. Re-check the pump and check all sensor connections. Spray some starting fluid into your throttle body and see if it starts.

Cap and rotor are cheap though. Though I don't like the replace and test method, it might be worth a shot. Brett Pindell

 

When it dies and won't start what is missing, Accord gave you a way to check for lack of fuel.

After is dies, turn the key off, turn it to "on"/pos II -not start just on. Does the CEL come on for a few seconds and then turn off? Also listen for the fuel pump during these few seconds.

You also want to test for spark, nice blue spark, at the plugs

 

When it dies its missing spark.The fuel pump still kicks on each time,sprayed starting fluid just to make sure,still wouldnt start.It fired then died last night,then I pulled the cap and rotor and sanded the contacts even more..................fired up and runs fine now,so I bought a cap and rotor ,I guess I will give it a try and see how long it runs.Has anyone had this problem?

 

Hope that is it,,,,if it comes back I would really look into testing the ICM and or coil.

 

Ok,it replaced the cap and rotor,fired up just fine,took it out to test it........died,same thing,pump comes on,can hear it,not sparking.Had to have it towed back home and the GD tow truck driver ripped the front kit off unloading it,so now Im pissed,ICM tests fine too.HELP !!!!!!

 

Coil tests fine too...............

 

ICM and coil test good, but the car will not start?

No stored codes?

Something in the ignition system-you say no spark- is getting hot and giving out. I know this is no a fun thing to chase down. Make sure the BLK/YEL wire is sending voltage to the coil/ICM.

 

No codes at all,thats where I started,as far as getting hot,it only ran for a short time,not even long enough to get up to temp,black/yellow has power then looses it,the only thing I can think of is that the main relay is,well,going bad maybe ? I'm stumped.I don't have free cash to take it anywhere to "try" to figure it out by the hr.I have been working on my own cars since I was 15 so I refuse anyway lol

 

Have you retested the main relay after the car dies?

 

having similiar issues, on used 94 i bought. hope ya figure it out

 

have the dying narrowed down to heavy acceleration,if you get it running,then really get on it,it will start to really go,then die? Any ideas there? When it happened to my wife,every time was leaving the toll,when it did it to me,I drove all through our track,then got on it once I was on the main rd,and it died.Hasn't started again since.

 

Ok now that it is completly dead....re-test the ICM and coil....

 

You need to be certain if your problem is fuel or spark related, if you are sure it doesn't have spark you need to check either the coil or ICM. Does your vehicle have an internally mounted (inside distributor) coil or externally mounted? If you are testing the coil by way of resistance you are wasting your time. The only good way to test a coil is with a DSO (digital storage oscilliscope). If you have an external coil that's probably not the problem. They rarely ever give trouble. How are you testing the ICM? I can probably give you a better test procedure for it.

 

Whats a easy test for the ICM,the coil is external,I even went and got one and tried it,no change,I returned it 30 minutes later.

 

The test for the ICM is'nt very easy but it's the second best thing next to using a DSO. Let me get to work in the morning and look at the wiring diagram for your car. I'll get back with you tomorrow. I haven't used that testing method in a while so I can't remember the procedure off the top of my head.

 

Like I said this is not the greatest test but I think it will be sufficient for you. You'll need a test light, a multimeter probably won't be fast enough for this test. Take your test light and hook the ground side of it to battery positve, and take the other end of the test light and hook it to the black/white wire (black with white stripe) at the distributor connector. Have someone crank the car while you watch the test light. If the test light blinks consistentyl then the ICM is good, if not then you need an ICM. Watch the light closely because it will be very dim.Given your symptoms and how often I see ICM's fail on these cars I'd give an educated guess and say you need an ICM. DO NOT BUY A AFTERMARKET ICM!!! There is not an aftermarket company anywhere that makes a quality ICM. It might last 10,000 miles but it will eventually fail much sooner than a factory part. Bite the bullet and buy factory....trust me.

 

I will give it a try tonight when my wife gets home and let you know what happens.Thanks alot to ya'll for the help.Like I said,I have been wrenching for over 20 yrs and this ones got me lol.Thanks !!!!

 

Ok,after some time,the car is up and running.I traced it to the ICM.A new one was over $120,so I went to the junk yard and bought a complete distibutor,swapped it out,along with my new cap and rotor and she runs better than ever.Thanks for all your help.