http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-38004/

Does anyone have experience with the Dynomax. It has a 2.5" collector for that price and clears all the stock ac lines etc then it seems like a deal. I am currently running a DC 4-2-1 but the underside is pretty badly scraped and dented and I think the movement from 2" collector to 2.36" ApexI WS2 is causing me extra raspiness..

Would it be possible to spray on ceramic coat this header or will you quicker recommend header wrapping it? I already have problems with heat soak in the engine bay and really don't need any more..

So, i can possibly get it for about $110 on ebay, what do you all say?

 

Never heard of that header before. Looks like an Ebay version too.

 

Looks like the same design as the Ractive 4-2-1 that I ran for well over 5 years with no issues. Only difference is that mine was a 2.25" collector. Wish this had been around back when I bought mine. If it's a Dynomax or Headman header it will be much better quality than any $50 ebay header out there.

If you are looking for a cheap header with a ceramic coating go with the PaceSetter set that Summit Racing has for the Accord. There is no easy spray on an dry ceramic coating that I know of.

 

Thanks for the tips..

Truth about the ceramic coating, I am doing it simply to keep the underhood temps down, but if I can have this dynomax header for $106 I may actually consider heat wrapping it.. I know heat wrapping is not advised for longevity, but at that price I might be willing to do it just to avoid additional heat soak..

I know for a fact that dynomax is not a ebay type low quality header but it isnt top quality fitment with no issues either. Considering that I will have to transport it out the country in my suitcase, I hope I will get no fitment issues when it comes to clearing AC lines and so on..

Honestly, if changing the header doesnt fix my raspiness then I am truly completely stumped...

 

If I had to take a fairly educated guess at where the raspiness is coming from. I would say that it is probably an issue with your resonator and muffler combo not the step-up from your header. Did you remove the cat?

 

I had a pretty long post a while ago right after I installed the exhaust.. I would love to explain again but its all been covered before..

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/really-raspy-apexi-ws2-help-needed-2801355/

Please read it and let me know what you think. You are one of the most mechanically proficient members on this forum and I would truly appreciate your view..

Just to make it clear, my car is in the Caribbean, right hand drive. At the time of purchase we were still using leaded fuel, so the car was spec from Honda Japan without a cat. As such, it just came with some flex pipe instead of a cat, which I replaced with a resonator when installing my exhaust/header. When i say a resonator I mean a pricey custom 16" resonator from the most reputable exhaust shop in the country... Not just a crappy test pipe..

So, all that considered, my APEXi WS2 is most likely not the cause. The resdonator actually helped deaden the raspiness but its not perfect, ie. not the resonator so that leads me to two remaining options.. Engine itself or header.. My header is not in the best of shape as I said, we welded a crack and the underside near the collector is scraped and dented a bit...

Thanks for all the help so far as please let me know what you can do..
I didnt spend ~$900 between parts and labour on my exhaust for it to sound like your average ebay "straight pipe" raspy wonder..

 

I'm not really a muffler exhaust guy. I've only ever played around with my own. Not a big fan of working on dirty old exhausts. I do know however that the entire induction system, engine and exhaust all play a part in the notes given off. Larger air filter, larger intake tube, larger displacement and larger exhaust usually tends to remove that 2 stroke dirt bike sound from a I4 exhaust.

It really sounds like you already have your mind made up that it is the header. If your current one is cracked and it's smaller than the rest of your exhaust. You might as well replace it and see what happens.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Hopefully the larger collector will help.

 

Well I wouldn't go so far as to say that I have my mind made up, anything i buy I have to transport out of the country in my suitcase and this isn't always the easiest of tasks.

Therefore, whenever I buy something I usually try to make sure its the best I can get for the money I'm spending..

My only worry about the dynomax is they say that it comes without gaskets .. I figure i can use the same o-rings between the 4 and 2 sections, but I'm a bit worried about the collector gasket.

I emailed them so lets see if they get around to replying and letting me know more

 

Most of those 4-2-1 designs do not use the same o-ring style gaskets. They usually come with a flat gasket. The collector gasket and flange gaskets would be the easy ones to find. Head flange would be the stock F20B2 and the collector would be ether a universal fit 2.5" ID donut gasket or you could get one from Honda, part number 18229-SCA-T11.

 

Thanks for the P/N ghost.. I'm working on finding it or a possible fel-pro from advance auto ( i get 40% off)..

Will the O rings between the two header pieces be the same as the DC sports? OEM? I hope so, Can't really handle having to find the right size O-rings..

 

Hit up NAPA and buy a sheet of exhaust gasket material. (metal sandwich type) and some tin snips. I don't know about there, but where I live that total cost me $30. With enough material to make gaskets for five or six full exhausts and then some. vs $25 for a collector gasket for my megan header.

 

Some of these aftermarket headers don't use the O-ring style gaskets. They use a flat metal/lead sandwich style gasket.

Like this one, Dynomax DNX Header Gasket Walker/Dynomax Part number-39007. I'm sure Advance Auto probably carries Walker Exhaust products. If not they should be able to cross reference that Walker part number.

 

I gave my opinion in that thread you posted up about your exhaust setup and I still stand behind it.

You have a resonator, which is good, but also having a cat helps with the sound. Most of the sound clips I hear of Accords (from the U.S.) missing either the cat or the resonator don't sound very appealing. I realize your car didn't come with a cat so...

I bet if you had a bigger resonator or possibly another resonator/muffler added you'd lose the rest of that raspy sound.

Go ahead and do what you want with the header. Perhaps it will fix the sound to your tastes and that'll be the end of it, but if not I'd try what I just mentioned.

 

From what I gather from his two threads he already has two resonators and a muffler. He replaced the flex pipe (same area as US cat) with a 16" resonator. Now as long as he still has the Apexi resonator in the B pipe and a muffler it shouldn't be all that raspy?????? Although it is still a 2.2L I4..........

OP can you post up a sound/video clip of the rasp your hearing? Could be that it's an exhaust leak or a thin walled header????

 

Ah, good call on the WSII resonator. Totally slipped my mind it had one.

I wouldn't say it's because of a cheap header (In the thread that was posted he says it's a DC, though my initial thoughts went straight to thin-walled header as well) but maybe the damage mentioned has something to do with it. Exhaust leak is another good thing to check.

If you really want another header, I'd say go with it and see what it does. Hopefully it is good quality and solves your issue and you don't have to waste use up more time and money.

If it still sounds raspy, I'd say that 16" resonator might not be big enough. You could try a chambered muffler of your choosing as well.

 

Thanks again for the help ghost and bwill. My header is a genuine DC, only catch of course being the dent and the one weld I had to do on the crack..

Concerning the resonators, the WS2 comes with a pretty big one inline, i'll say about 18 inches, and well the one I installed in place of the flex pipe (where the cat would be on US models) 16" is the biggest that would fit without having to either cut into the header or the ws2. You still need room alongside the resonator for the spring joints etc, hence 16" is the best we can do.
The 16" made a HUGE difference before and after but its still not up to what I am expecting.. No exhaust leaks either, checked it out 3 times at different shops..
Thing is, I read of similar setups to mine where people used the same exhaust and header combo, but some went with either a unresonated or resonated test pipe which are both smaller and less effective than my 16" res and their setup is much less raspy than mine..

It leaves me to blame the header as the final culrpit.. Its just such a pain to transport a 20lb header in my suitcase..
Which reminds me, does anyone know how much header wrap it takes to wrap an accord header? I know its not recommended for longevity, but for $120 or so for the header, why not?

 

Well, i ordered the header on eb ay for $106 yesterday.. For that price not bad just to even give it a trial...

Now, I have to decide if it makes sense to wrap the header or not.. If I am wrapping, I am looking at the newer DEI Titanium wrap.. Does anyone have experience with it? I will probably spray the header first to make sure that its properly coated to protect from oxidation/rusting and then do the wrapping.
Shame the wrap costs almost half as much as the header though..

For these accord header, how much wrap should I consider using? 2" x 25ft or 2" x 50 ft?

 

Read through the first two pages.

Looks like 25 ft. will do it, but it will be somewhat close. Sounds like it's personal preference.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/natur...-you-need.html

Good luck!

 

Thanks for that..

So I called dynomax today just to ask some questions about the gaskets (seeing as they are the same company as walker will save me a lot of trouble finding the gaskets myself) and also what they think about wrapping etc..

The "tech" had me on hold for 10 mins then told me he will call me back.. That was 7 hours ago and of course I received no call..... -1 for customer service...

 

That's sounds pretty typical of big companies these days, and some smaller ones.

 

Well, I recieved the dynomax DNX header today... First impression, made in Taiwan.. I guess that doesnt mean much, could be a good or bad things..

Second impression.. The header doesnt come close to the build quality of the DC in terms of neatness of welds, lack of imperfections etc, but for 1/3 the cost, I can't really complain in that regard..

My main complaint though is that I just got the bloody thing and its already showing signs of rusting around the welds.. I know its probably just from storage but that certainly doesnt bode well for my long-term plans, or my wrapping plans..
I suspect that I will be buying some of the DEI spray coating and doing them up in the oven soon.. Seems like a better assurance than having to worry about premature rusting..
Pictures to follow!

 

What would you do in my situation? The seller claims to not accept returns and truth be told I don't think the return shipping will be very affordable for a $20 item..

Do you think the DEI silicone hi-temp coating spray can help my situation or should I do the unthinkable and paint it with some red oxide rust prevention paint(like you would use to prime a home fixture you didn't want to rust,) then DEI spray it..

 

I don't know how that rust prevention stuff does with heat, so you might want to check that first. Otherwise you definitely need some sort of coating on there. You could do the DEI spray or get it ceramic coated, whatever you think is best.

Also, try and get as much of that rust off as possible.

I'd personally get it ceramic coated (like I would any header), but that's just my preference.

 

I would also love to get it ceramic coated as an ideal situation, but considering the cost of the header was $106 on sale, I don't think it makes sense paying more than twice that to ceramic coat..

I'm looking at my options.. .I picked up a can of DEI spray at advance for $6 on sale yesterday... Quite the steal but im looking for some extra rust protection.. Going to keep looking to see if I can find some sort of heat resistant iron oxide coating (or possibly zinc) that I can paint on myself and then coat with the DEI..

 

Take it to a powder coating place. Most of them have a spray on "ceramic" style coating which will be similar to Jet Hot Coating.