In part one, we went through the trials and tribulations of having a 5th gen Prelude converted to RHD, and swapped with an F20B with a few goodies. Alot of comments from well-wishers and a lot from haters. Means I'm doing something right.

Anyways what was done:

RHD conversion
auto climate control
kept A/C
power folding mirrors
F20B swap
8lb clutch
ACT 6 puck HD
OBD1 conversion
wrapped header
Hype R shift boot
some exhaust/header that was in the trunk before the H22A was installed LOL.
Moogen pedals
sparco wheel/Momo hub
15000k HID
JDM yellow fogs

Some select pics:

Shell



Put in H22A4:



Process:












Done with their part...mostly:





Things that I need to shop to address:

Brake light. I don't know if ABS is down or not. Either way it was a power option that I didn't get rid of because this isn't a Civic or racecar.

ECU tune they had chipped. My rear bumper is black, I thought the engine was bad. I ran compression and got 179-182-182-182. You can't ask for a better motor. It must be a very conservative rich chip, given who did it. It's gonna need something less rich.

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Basically its been sitting since I got it back in Jan, except for a time that I was forced to drive it while my daily went down. School needed to be paid back, and some family knew I was sitting on money when i was ready to pick it up, so I was tapped out when I got the car back, plus the beater going down and needing a an expensive fix was just great.

It is FINALLY tme to do more. Near the end of the 800 miles that I drove the car in the absence of the daily, the input shaft bearing started growling, and the car had been sitting since then as I got the daily back up.

I've been looking at trannys but locally all that's for sale is a 5G JDM SiR. Why is that a problem? The JDM BB6 H22A Prelude SiR non-LSD comes with the M2S4, which is the same tranny as the USDM 4G non VTEC. Longer gears + less TQ than stock = no thanks.

Car is out at a shop today about to have engine/trans pulled, trans rebuilt, and bodywork and paint. The next biggest step.




Body plans:

Have imperfections taken care of
Have everything color matched
Mugen style wing
mudflaps (color matched)
JDM hood spoiler (I have already) matched.
DC5R red H for trunk
EP3R red H for hood
SiR-T badge on right of trunk
replace DOHC VTEC in left of trunk.





Extra hood I have. Removed that hood spoiler, and will use it on the current hood. That red hood will be filled, and I will be applying a custom vinyl to it with a murial/collage type of deal:




Have these SiR red door panels. Don't know what I'm doing with them, they are blemished. If the red part could be put onto my panels that would work. On the interior I would like the red panels and red Recaros to match my wheel




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Will update with pics as stuff is done. Just wanted to get the ball rollong again since the car is at the shop about to go back under.

Which color?

Vogue Silver Metallic
or
Sunburst Gold Metallic?

Anything thats not a JDM rice color (drab olive, rootbeer)?

 

Nice I like it 

 

in for this!

 

I vote VSM.

 

i can say that the torqueless f20b statement is false. The torques is tied into vtec and after looking at f20b dynos, the torque seems to climb with vtec. I'm with you as i got the LHD f20b BB6 and down low the torque isn't there but in vtec i swear pulls harder than h22a. mines still obd2 but i noticed my rev limit kicks in sooner than 7300. keep us updated and let me know how you plan to build the f20b, n/a or PSI?

 

Well I picked up cheap wheels that I'll be able to roll on after I get the car back. I plan to fully polish them.




(dont mind the date on the pics. took pics yesterday.

5Zigen FN01. 17x7. I still plan to get Volks, this car wont be complete without expensive wheels TBH. Too much work and $$$ to settle.

 

glad to see your still going with the project. i was starting to worry with all the problems you had in part 1.

 

Props on the RHD, srsly it takes alot of patience and motivation to do such conversion.

As for the F20B, in a chassis like the BB6, i would have went with a H23A VTEC.

Ive experienced both F20B and H23A (current) in my CD7, and if people think a stock F20B has torque, they obviously don't know what torque is.
I swapped out my F20B for a H23A while keeping the T2T4 from the SiR-T, already put a 8lbs Fidanza when swapping the F20 so i added 70mm TB w/ S2 IM, F20B injectors, Hytech header and 2.5" cat-back believe me, this thing has torque. I've eated K20s, K24s, B18's, B16's, H22's, F20B. Now trying to keep up with the Forced Induction peeps

Good luck with the BB6, i convinced my GF to buy her BB6 so i could use it as a DD

 

 

Too deep in not to finish, plus the hardest most consuming stuff is already done. But yeah, everythings been a PITA, and I stick by my earlier words; am NOT doing this again. The main issue is location. Not enough outlets or avenues to get **** done easily or quickly.

The choice of engine was for certain purposes. The shop tried to talk me into the H23A, especially since F20B, H22A non-redtop and H23A sell for same price as longblock. I've seen some amazing dynos from it. But I didn't want FRM cylinders, and I want the redline to be high. That was my choice over all-out speed. Plus I havent street riced in half a decade, and am not interested in going to the track for high 14's at best. But if I do go into the motor after the rest is said and done, I want an NA, all top end 9500+ RPM engine.

Thanks.

 

half way there with the wheels