91 HONDA ACCORD
HELLO, I HAVE A 91 HONDA ACCORD WITH AND F22B. THE CAR RAN GREAT AND HAS NO PROBLEMS UNTIL THIS MORNING WHEN I GOT IN TO GO TO WORK. I PLACED THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND TURNED IT AS I PRESSED DOWN THE CLUTCH......NO START AT ALL.....JUST THE USUAL LIGHTING ON THE DASH. I HEARD THE FEEL PUMP COME ON AND EVERYTHING BUT STILL NOTHING. I CHECKED THE OIL AND IT WAS LOW SO I PUT THREE QUARTS IN HER TO FILL IT BACK UP. WAITED A FEW SECONDS THEN TRIED TO CRANK AND IT STILL DID NOTHING.......ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYONE....?
NO I DONT HEAR NO CLICKING ACCEPT WHEN I TURN THE KEY TO START IT UP. OTHER THAN THAT NOTHING.......EVERYTHING IS NORMAL......DO YOU GUYS THING IT MAY BE THE NUETRAL SWITCH UNDERNEATH THE DASH THAT HELPS START THE CAR WHEN DEPRESSING THE CLUTCH...????
The starter solenoid wouldn't energize and click if it was the neutral safety switch. have your battery load tested at a local parts store, there are quite a few that will test them for you for free.
I GOT A TIP FROM A GUY AND HE SAID IT MAY BE THE STARTER, SO I AM GOING TO REPLACE IT TODAY AND LET YOU GUYS KNOW IF IT WAS THE PROBLEM.....THANKS FOR YOUR HELP GUYZ.....OH AND I FOUND OUT THAT OIL WAS LEAKING FROM THE DISTRIBUTOR SO I HAVE TO REPLACE THAT OIL RING INSIDE.....LATER DUDES
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You should have the starter tested before you go and buy a new/remand one. Doesn't really make much sense to replace it without knowing if it is bad or not. Also have you tested your battery yet?
Have someone crank the key over while you're pounding on the starter with the hammer handle or prybar. It'll fire right up if it was the culprit. A trick I see many techs do at work.
I agree. The parts store will test both for free. Take care of both in one trip.
WHATS UP GUYS.....I TESTED THE OLD STARTER AND IT WAS GOOD BUT I WENT AHEAD AND PUT A NEW ONE ON IT ANY WHO......I INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY AND THAT WAS NOT THE PROBLEM EITHER.....I WAS ABLE TO PUSH START MY CAR AND GET IT CRANK AFTER THE TWO INSTALLATIONS.....I DROVE IT ABOUT 30 MILES DOWN THE ROAD AND THEN BACK HOME.....ONCE IT GOT HOME AND TURN THE KEY TO OFF POSITION THAT WAS IT.....I THEN TURNED THE KEY BACK FORWARD AD ND DEPRESSED THE CLUTCH TO CRANK IT BUT I GOT NOTHING.......I WANT TO SAY ITS THE ALTERNATOR BUT I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCE THIS BEFORE.....WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK.....????
Are you sure the starter clicks when you try to start the car? If the starter doesn't make a sound then it could very well be the ignition switch or the wiring from the ignition to the starter.
YEAH I AM SURE THAT IT CLICKS WHEN I TURN THE KEY.......I HOPE IT IS THE IGNITIIN SWITCH INSTEAD OF THE WIRING FROM THE SWITCH TO THE STARTER......THATS A PAIN IN THE *** TO CHANGE. BUT I THOUGHT IF YOU ARE ABLE TO JUMP START IT THEN NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH.....? NOT SURE BUT I WILL CHECK IT OUT......
HEY GUYS I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT I HAVE A VIPER CAR ALARM ON MY CAR THAT HAS A FAIL SAFE AND SHOCK SENSOR. A GUY WHO LIVES IN THE AREA SAID THAT IT MAY HAVE CAUSED MY NUETRALIZER SWITCH TO GO BAD THATS WHY ITS STOPPING ME FROM CRANKING WITHOUT PUSH STARTING MY CAR.......THIS SUCKS....WHAT DO YOU THINK GUYS
STILL HAVING STARTING PROBLEMS.......I AM GETTIN PISSED AS HELL.....NOT THE STARTER OR FUEL PUMP........DONT KNOW WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON......MY MECHANIC SAYS HE THINKS I MAY HAVE A SHORT IN THE HARNESS THAT CONNECTS FROM THE FUSE BOX TO THE STARTER.......I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF NO SUCH **** IN MY LIFE,,,,,,,WHAT THE ****
I have seen bad battery cables/connections act in the erratic manner being described here. If the basics aren't as they should be, no amount of new parts will fix the problem. And 3 qts low, even with an unusual leak source, is a no-no. It's important to stay on top of these things.....Good Luck!
Car alarm could cause it
Neutral switch could cause it
Bad wire connections could also cause it
The problem is there is really no way for any of us to diagnose it because it could be any of these. Start with the easiest and work to the harder ones afterward.
How long have you had the car alarm? This is the #1 culprit in my opinion.
You can have the alternator tested by keeping the car running and going to Autozone/Checker. They need the car running to test it though.
Neutral switch could cause it
Bad wire connections could also cause it
The problem is there is really no way for any of us to diagnose it because it could be any of these. Start with the easiest and work to the harder ones afterward.
How long have you had the car alarm? This is the #1 culprit in my opinion.
You can have the alternator tested by keeping the car running and going to Autozone/Checker. They need the car running to test it though.
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