BROCKB'S COMPLETE BUILD THREAD:
A timeline and full parts list from the day I bought my S2000 until now...

CAR: Chicane Silver 2008 S2000

CURRENT MILES: 34,000 (as of March 2012)

TYPE AND FUEL: Forced Induction/ E85 fuel system

CURRENT PEAK POWER: 698whp @22psi/ 489wtq @21psi

BUILD STATUS: 99% complete (just need to reinforce transmission)

* Current record holder for highest wheel horspower and torque achieved by an F22c Stock Long Block S2K as of 2012

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqT1Ft_DnqM

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This has been a long, expensive road of trial and error for what works and what doesn't with the S2K.
I originally planned to keep the car close to stock and rarely contemplated modifying the car's performance (lol)
until I talked to Mase at Mase Engineering and he sold me on his kit. From there, I caught the mod bug and
wanted more. Besides the turbo kit, I'll admit it may have been a little ugly at first, but after taking the time
to learn the values of function and versatility I became tedious to make sure my S2K was going in the right
direction both aesthetically and performance-wise. I wasn't fond of cars that were fast and ugly, nor cars that
were pretty and slow, so I knew I had to cash in big time for both- or just not do anything at all- so, I cashed in...



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AESTHETICS:

INTERIOR
Red/black two-tone racing seats
Red door panels
Aluminum Dash trim kit
S2000 dual gauge pod
AEM truboost gauge with solenoid
AEM oil pressure gauge
AEM uego wideband gauge
Auber Instruments 4 EGT meters with boxes, buzzers, & probes
Carbon fiber visor sections
Red interior glow lights plus installation
Electric converter box for ground outlet applications

AUDIO
Alpine IDA-X305s Head unit
Powerbass 1600 watt 5 channel amp + wiring
Custom sub box
Kicker 12 inch Subwoofer
Iphone, Pandora, & USB adapter + all installation
Kicker door speakers

EXTERIOR
S Emblems X2
Red Exterior lights 4 piece X2
VIS carbon fiber terminator hood
Tented Windows
Toneau Top Cover
Painted Brake Calipers
Clear Side Light Canisters + White LED Lights
Carbon Fiber Spoiler + custom paint and install
Mase custom made decals
Volk LE 37's custom painted with caps, lug nuts
Mugen lip + painted
Chargespeed side diffusers
Chargespeed rear diffusers
Password JDM carbon fiber radiator cooling plate
Hood dampers
JS2K clear AP2 headlight turning markers
Double sided infused carbon fiber hardtop
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PERFORMANCE

ENGINE & TURBO
Toda springs
Toda retainers
Toda tensioner
ARP Headstuds
ARP stainless steel exhaust valves
Hondata intake manifold gasket
Iridium high performance spark plugs
Precision bilet ball bearing 62/62 precision turbo
Racelab Custom 3" downpipe
Custom 3" single exhaust (made to look like dual)
Tial 44mm wastegate with all spring sizes
Tial blow off valve
Mase engineering turbo chargepipe set
Mase engineering exhaust manifold
MCA Custom dump pipe
AEM dry air filter (and other miscellaneous air intakes)
BRMS oil catch can + head welded fittings and linings
All couplers, fittings, linings, and heatshields for turbo setup
Hondata ECU boost by gear upgrade
Hondata Flashpro computer engine management system
Plug and Play Map sensor

FUEL SYSTEM
ID2000 injectors + injector clips
Full Blown Dual pump hanger
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
AEM Fuel fittings and linings for E85 fuel conversion
AEM Fuel pressure gauge
100 Micron fuel filter (e85 safe)
Dual Walbro fuel pumps

COOLING
Battery relocation kit (for heat relief and clearance of downpipe, etc)
Mugen thermostat and thermoswitch
Full blown radiator and slim fan
Mushimoto oil cooling kit
Precision 600 intercooler

SUSPENSION & DRIVETRAIN
Falken 452 street radial tires (for street)
AP1 rear rims w/Mickey Thompson 255/50/16 tires (for drag)
Buddy Club N+ coilover system + Installation and dampening
TCS suspension strut bar
R1 Cross drilled and slotted rotors
OEM extended performance brake pads
Competition Twin disc clutch
Puddymod stage 4 differential
Gator racing axles
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TIME-LINE

November 2009 @ Honda: Purchased car with 16,000 miles, pre-certified, and completely stock.




December 2009- February 2010:
- I added a Seibon carbon fiber hood,
- 18" Lorenzo rims
- Eibach lowering springs.
- Complete audio system with a custom 12" box and subwoofer in the trunk
- Amp and a pioneer CD head unit.




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1st MAJOR UPGRADE EVOLUTION

March 2010 @ TD Autowerkes Miami, FL: I installed Mase Engineering's first drive-by wire turbo
kit with a 58/57 Precision turbo, ID1000 injectors, competition stage 4 clutch, hondata flashpro EMS,
manual boost controller, Autometer gauges; Mase tuned on 93 Octane; 428whp @14psi max on a dynojet.
(stock exhaust)

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/7749...000-turbo-kit/






April 2010: I experienced a bad turbo with distorted seals. Mase replaced it immediately and I
was back and running again. From this point on, I was gunning this turbo kit from racing constantly
at events at least 2 times a week on hundreds of different occasions. I did not have any major
problems even under this stress that I put the car through for the whole upcoming year. Either I
was lucky, or the turbo kit was very efficient for its worth.

Summer- Fall 2010: I added miscellaneous aesthetics such as the mugen front lip, diffusers,
Rick's accessories, engine and interior bling, and yes- neons (I know, but I don't care; I will always
love them. lol) I had my oem carbon fiber rear spoiler custom painted too.






October 2010 @STP, Ft. Lauderdale, FL: I wanted more power so I upgraded to a single exhaust-
YES, SINGLE. hate it or love it, but what I did was make a single 3" straight through exhaust look like
a dual exhaust by welding another muffler to the single pipe with no opening. I did this to avoid
the empty ugliness of the missing hole in the rear, and I like the aggressive look of a dual. The
other options were to buy a single hole bumper paint it or do body shop work, but these were all
more expensive and unnecessary, so I decided to do this dual look-a-like. Best of all, I can switch
the mufflers out when the used one gets old, so it's like getting two for one. I would say the
only drawback is about 18ibs of non-functional weight, which is not a big deal for what it's worth.



I also made an MS109 race fuel map. I had Mase tune it at 465whp/354tq @19psi on a dyno dynamics (graph
on bottom right). The 58 precision turbo was making it very hard to reach 500, plus there were
some inconsistencies with my manual boost controller so the numbers were lower than expected (and on
a mustang dyno). On the bottom left graph, I ran my first dyno on pump before switching to MS109 just
to see the difference between a dyno jet and a dyno dynamics reading. It only read 391whp compared to
the dyno jet that was used to measure it when I first installed the kit- a difference of 37whp.






Winter 2010-Spring 2011: By now I was certain of the way I wanted my car to look, so I revised
and completed most of my major aesthetics. I Swapped out the Lorenzo's with the rims I had been looking
for all along- the Volk LE37s. I custom painted them black on the inside of the spokes and added new
wheel caps. I also replaced my Seibon hood with a terminator VIS hood, added buddy club coilovers,
brake rotors and pads, red door panels, and other miscellaneous things. Finally, I switched my gauges
from autometer to AEM, replaced my manual controller to be controlled with the AEM truboost and
solenoid, and I switched the glow lights from blue to red for a darker, matching red-on-silver theme.






March 2011: I encountered my first major problem with the Mase kit since the first turbo that
had bad seals: The dump pipe actually burnt/fell off. I wish I would've seen or heard it when it fell
off, but since it is underneath the downpipe where it cannot be seen I didn't notice it until I was doing
an oil change. By then it was too late. The wastegate left an opening which released hot exhaust
flashes and melted away some vital wiring which controlled my power steering. It also damaged my
steering rack and I no longer had power steering. Mase replaced the dump pipe under warranty,
but unfortunately I would have to pay out of pocket to fix the power steering and rack/pinion. Since
this would be a very expensive issue, I decided to drive without the EPS until I completely finished all
the engine upgrades I wanted to do. Turning the car at low speeds is like driving a bedrock mobile...



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2ND MAJOR UPGRADE EVOLUTION
(refer to pictures from 2011 spring build below)

May 2011 @Racelab, Miami, Fl: After the halt with the dump pipe issue, I was finally ready to
make the biggest transition of all- upgrade the fuel system and turbo kit to get into the 600+whp
range. So I ordered and installed all parts for a complete E85 fuel conversion;

- Full Blown Dual pump hanger and dual Walbro fuel pumps
- Fuel filter, AEM fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge, Fuel fittings and linings
- Upgraded from 1000 to ID2000 injectors;
- Upgraded from a 58 to a ball bearing 62/62 precision turbo
- Upgraded from mase engineering 2.5" downpipe to a racelab 3" custom downpipe.
- Upgraded from a comp stage 4 to a Competition twin disc clutch.



After the transition, the engine was running nicely, but unfortunately I was too impulsive for this kind
of power. I left the entire drivetrain stock and had Mase come down to tune it. It made 540whp on
a dynodynamics @ only 15psi, which is a really good power-to-psi ratio. We were going to push it to
a good limit between 19psi-21psi, but a charge pipe blew off before we could. It was getting late so I
could not run it again.



The next day I fixed the chargepipe and I drove it around to play with the boost levels and to get used
to the awesome new power. I experienced some rough idles (which would later be the valves) and
Murphy's law came in effect- I blew 4th gear in my transmission! I expected this to happen eventually,
but not this quickly. Luckily, I picked up an oem used local tranny for sale and had it installed the
next day. I drove it around conservatively with the new tranny, and I started to experience some
rough idling. Once I took a closer look, some of the valves were burnt and bent. It was at this point
I knew that I still had a lot of work to do to perfect this build for efficiency. I intended for
this to be my last major upgrade phase...


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3rd MAJOR UPGRADE EVOLUTION
(Refer to pictures from 2011 summer build below)

June- October 2011 @ MCA motorsports, Miami, FL:
This was a makeover to make my E85 build efficient and safe...

First of all, for anyone in South Florida, do NOT EVER take your car to MCA motorsports. EVER. I don't
know what I was thinking! The owner is a thug and will make up problems with your car and back it up
with jargon to take money from you + they are unresponsive and gave me the shittiest customer service
I've ever experienced. They did not keep me informed for weeks on end, they ordered parts without telling
me they would take months to get in from japan (which was BS anyway) and they took nearly a HALF A YEAR
to finish my car. They also cracked my right chargespeed diffuser and said they would replace it but
made me wait another month for them to do that until I found out they never even ordered anything. Oh,
and that was after the owner dissapeared for 3 months and didnt answer his calls while my car was still
in his shop. Needless to say, they were working without a license too. I ended up demanding my car back
and I had them just reinburse me for the diffuser. Now im stuck having to fix all the little things
that weren't fixed along with a lot of lost time and disrespect. They are also way too expensive for
a nightmare hassle like this. Im not the only one that had to learn the hard way- so did others I know
in the local area. so DO NOT GO To MCA. A lesson learned from my mistake! but here is what I had done:

- A complete valve job and internal steam cleaning, etc to the top end of the engine.
- Upgraded the block with toda springs, retainers, tensioner, hondata intake gasket, and ARP headstuds
- Fixed and replaced the burnt/bent valves with ARP stainless steel valves.
- Installed a BRMS oil catch can and fixed major blow-by issues with proper drilling into the head
- Relocated the battery, flipped the fuse box sideways, and adjusted the wiring and piping in that
area for more space and heat relief.
- Installed Moshimoto oil cooling kit, a full blown radiator coupled with 2 slimline fans (to clear the
the charge pipe connecting to the turbo manifold), and installed a Mugen thermostat and thermoswitch.
- Upgraded from a 38mm to a 44mm wastegate, and had a better dumppipe made so my previous issue
from burning the wires wouldn't happen again.
- Mailed in my flashpro ecu to hondata to upgrade it for boost by gear and boost control.





- Upgraded the drive train with a Puddymod stage 4 built differential (4.10 gears), gator
racing axles, and new 16" ap1 rims coupled with MT drag radials to hold down the power.
- Ordered a full supply of amsoil fluids and oils to last me a good 2 years or so
- Added plenty more heat wrap on the exhaust manifold side.





- Installed 4 separate pyrometers to initially measure EGT's for fine tuning. I placed them in the
passenger side compartments below the dash to be discrete yet match the aem red gauge theme i have
going. I had a probe drilled into each cylinder of the exhaust manifold.



October, 2011-January 2012

- Worked on Fixing miscellaneous electrical and boost issues caused by MCA
- installed hood dampers
- switched out my black leather OEM seats with two tone red/black seats, and I
- Installed an Alpine IDA X305s head unit to replace my pioneer (now all the interior is glowing red)
- Installed JS2K clear lights
- Installed Carbon fiber hardtop I ordered on S2KI



February 2012- Present

When I thought all my issues were cleared, I put it on the dynocom and made a wonderful 485whp at only
10psi (all wastegate), and 603whp and 460 wtq @ 20psi. (see graph below) Around 7-8000 rpms,
but I was still getting misfires. I took it to a racelab's dynojet and it made 652whp/489wtq at 21psi which
set the record for wheel torque produced by a stock long block f22c; but it was still breaking up from misfires
at that level. My tuner, Kenny (turbogixxer) gapped the plugs from 25 to 15 and we took it to TD autowerkes
dyno jet and it fixed the misfires. It also set the record for wheel horsepower produced by a stock long block f22c as well.



In the Future...

Now all I have left to do is repaint my valve head (from the catch can drilling). I might do some ceramic
coating of my manifold and downpipe, and also fabricate and intake tube so the turbo can get outside air
(air temps under the hood are showing 150+ so this would certainly help). I definitely could use a major
transmission upgrade/conversion, but I'm not ready to go through the time and money for that YET- at least
as long as my current tranny holds up for me. In the meantime, I have extra axles, an extra driveshaft,
and another used stock transmission on the side in case this second one I have installed goes out too.
The transmission and the bottom end of the block are the only two known major weak points left on the car-
and the only thing I don't plan on touching is the bottom end (which is why I didn't bother to change the
gears or increase my rev limit). I have yet to save up for a transmission solution. I also want to start
getting into the track scene, so I might purchase a set of slicks on ap1's if my current drag radials won't
hold up. In the meantime, I'm enjoying it!






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ADDITIONAL DETAILED PICS
from the 2011 spring build:
Goal: 500+ capability
Achieved: yes (540whp @15psi on mustang dyno)

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The fuel system for E85. In hindsight, the ID2000's may have been overkill, and the 1600's
would've been a little better on the DD side of driving, but no biggie. At least I know
theres no shortcomings at ALL with the 2000's- thats for sure



The 3" downpipe replacing the 2.5" mase downpipe that came with the kit was a VERY tight fit.
To distribute heat better and solve the occasional knock-prone rattling, I would relocate the battery later



Competition twin disc clutch installed



AEM fuel rail and injectors installed



during its first tune on E85... 540whp @ only 15psi on a MUSTANG dyno





Finished product from the spring, until it went right back into the shop a week later (lol)




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ADDITIONAL DETAILED PICTURES
from the 2011 summer/fall build.
Goal: 600+ capability
Achieved: yes; 698whp @ 22psi / 489wtq @21psi (both on dynojet)

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Gator racing axles



My stage 4 Puddymod differential before being put on the car:





And when it was installed:



Additional valve work installing the toda springs, retainers, etc...:







Initial installement of BRMS Oil Catch Can installed without fittings.
As you can see, the pcv valve was closed along with the vacuum hole to its
right in order to allow blow-by to escape into the 10an linings.
(I plan on repainting the valve cover after the weld had to be made)





Here are my Pyrometers from Auber Instruments while they were being installed during the build.
They fit perfectly underneath the pasenger side of the dash. They each a sound alarm attached to
them in case temperatures rise past the peak setting.





Relocation of the battery and my new amp installed behind the backing



Here is my mushimoto 19" oil cooler installed. It could not fit it properly on the lower side of the car
to possibly run an air duct through the fake air dams where I wanted it, so I had no choice but to install
it in the center behind the front bumper. I ended up making an air duct out of aluminum and yes, duct tape. You can see the details of this air damn I built for it here:
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/9103...#entry21170423







Here are my Mickey Thompson 255/50/16 tires.
I painted them black on the inside spokes, just like my volks.
I always liked the skinnier, color-contrasting appearance it gives.



And about a 2-3 year supply of all the fluids and oils I need from Amsoil
The high tbn rating of 12.1 among other things makes it a respectable oil for the e85 system
-5 Amsoil Synthetic Nanofiber Oil Filters
-5 quarts of Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic Extreme Pressure (EP) Gear Lube 75W-140
-8 quarts of Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30
-8 Gallons of Amsoil SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (AMO)
-3 bottles of oem dot3 brake/clutch fluid from honda












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THE FINISHED PRODUCT:
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FINISHED ENGINE BAY

Current peak wheel torque: 489wtq @ 21psi



Current peak wheel horsepower: 698whp @ 22psi





















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FINISHED INTERIOR











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FINISHED EXTERIOR













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Thank you for visiting my complete build thread! Any comments, suggestions, or critiques are welcome.
I don't care if you copy my build in any way- it's here to help others that are questionable about
things and may need a build path just as I did when I first started out.

And be sure to check out my video thread where I post all my races and dyno runs:
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/8785...rld-literally/

 

That is a beautiful job. Everything is well executed.

Props.

 

amazing build.

I didnt know puddymod made stage 4 diffs. What does it consist of? Is it a good alternative to the full blown rear end?

 

Thanks. I'm not sure what hes doing, as im still waiting for him to send me the full of email of the details of the work by next week before pickup; but heres a link of a prior stage 4 he built to give you a clue...
http://www.modified.com/projectcars/...ear/index.html

The full blown rear end is an awesome piece, but puddymods stage 4 work is cheaper than the full blown alternative and he is highly reputable. If i was going to be running a 700+whp from mulitple digs then i would've gone with the full blown conversion but at 600+whp, his stage 4 should hold up perfectly fine. There is ZERO complaints about the guys work- he is top notch.

 

Thats good to know. Full blown is local to me, and their products are always top knotch, but buying a whole new rear end is costly, and its nice to know of alternatives.

 

Yea, at least with puddymod's stage 4, its a simple swap with your oem one- nothing else

 

May I ask what Ben is charging for these stage 4's?

 

you, sir, have one of the nicest looks s2ks I've ever seen. this is making me want to sell my boosted SI and pick one up now. well done

 

This S2k probably has a lot more money into it than your SI =/

I came into this thread thinking "This guy is going to blow rear ends like crazy..." but NOPE shouldn't be a problem. It's an amazing machine :D

 

Just a heads up...the walbro filter socks are 25 micron, so your post pumps filter needs to be smaller than that. Fuelab makes a nice 6Micron e85 filter you can put inside your Aeromotive housing. Badd *** build man. I love me some boosted S2k's!

 

Nice build

 

with the swap of my oem one to him, he gave me the price of 2500$

Thanks a lot!

lol, I actually broke the 4th gear of the transmission on the day after i had it tuned. I wanted to run out all my oem stuff for as long as it could handle before I had to start reinforcing it, but that answered that question. lol

 

Looking good interested in HP/TQ turnout

 

That's the name of the game. Upgrades here force upgrades elsewhere. Hell, I know a guy who blew his S2000 diff on stock power the first day he took it to the strip lol, not to mention he only owned the car a month, I had warned this guy's GF, I was like "Tell him not to beat on it too badly or he'll blow the rear end out." Sure enough she called me to tell me they had to ride home in a tow truck haha.

 

beautiful car man..

 

thanks...

UPDATE 6-14-2011:
after long talks with my experienced shop about all my little problems and tweaks, I concluded I may be able to hit over 600whp while on the dyno, and just for numbers, push it to 19 or 20psi. but for the street and for racing, I will most likely stay at 15psi for the purpose of safety and efficiency. 15psi will most likely put me around 560whp with everything healthy.

I've been having some minor issues with my springs and retainers. I will be replacing them for todas along with some other issues with the exhaust valves, etc. For this reason, I am going to keep the boost relatively low. I just don't have the money to build the bottom of the engine and the head combined so I would rather play it conseritavely eventhough I could probably get by with higher boost on e85...

so in essence, ill turn it up as much as a can for a quick dyno run, but in reality, I expect to be around 560whp safely and consistantly- not 650...

 

Absolutely marvelous! Keep us posted on your car once it's on the track and some street vids please!

 

bauce!

 

info updated on first post- finished build pics coming soon

 

updated...

 

time slips

 

Nice buld thread. Well updated. Beautiful pictures. Im sure that took you several hours to write.

A couple opinions/questions:
1.) Amazing car but the neons cheapen it.
2.) As mentioned earlier your post pump filter of 100micron is too big to be effective.
3.) Several times you said you mounted the EGT Probes in the cylinder head. I see you meant manifold in the pics.
4.) Did you log the 4 EGT inputs during tuning or are they stand alone?
5.) Why did you disconnect 3 EGTs after tuning?
6.) What are your plans for upgrading the gears?
7.) How does the MS109 compare to E85? Is the E85 cheaper, easier to get and higher octane right?
8.) Is that an oil pressure sensor on your turbo oil feed T? Ive never seen a T like that before.
9.) Did you have the head ported while you were replacing the valves?
10.) Why not upgrade your brake fluid to something like ATE Super Blue?

 

Thanks for reading!
1. I get a lot of crap for those neons and I completely understand why, but I've always liked the look so I see no harm in them for an extra show appearance.
2. thanks for this info- I will look into changing this.
3. thanks for letting me know- i typed a lot so I'll look that over and correct it
4. 1 can be logged (which I have connected to exhaust cylinder one) while the other 3 are stand alone.
5. I have yet to disconnect them or fine-tune it since Im still breaking in my diff, but once its tuned, I find that monitoring the fuel press, oil temp, ECTs, and exhaust manifold cylinder 1 will simply be more important than monitoring all 4 exhaust cylinders AFTER the tune.
6. I had the chance to upgrade them when I had my differential made, but i didn't see the point if I could not increase my rev limit. I had a chance to increase my rev limit when I had the head built , but I didn't see a point to this either when I still have a stock transmission and stock pistons and rods in the bottom end. So in essence, I would've loved to change the gears, but the money pit has to stop somewhere. to proceed with that would've been thousands of more dollars to upgrade parts to make it all obtainable.
7. E85 is wayyyy better than MS109 eventhough they both have about the same octane rating. The components of e85 keep the car cooler and burn faster and cleaner than 109, so its better for turbos. Beyond that, you would have to ask the gas experts. And yes, it is a LOT cheaper too (which is one of the main reasons I switched over). MS109 was costing me around 70$ a gallon, but e85 you can fill up 5 gallons at a gas station for about 12-12bucks so huge difference.
8. Yes, that is my oil pressure sensor.
9. No- heres why: after doing much research about ported s2k's, I've actually seen lost power from this. Now its fair to say I don't know the other variables that may be responsible, but I wasn't willing to spend the extra money on an iffy upgrade. Also, since the shop (MCA) was taking so damn long to complete my car and using excuses to hold it off, I didn't want them to attempt to port the head and use that as another excuse for having my car another couple months. None of it was worth the hassle or the money really.
10. you actually reminded me to list this as one of my future upgrades because I have been planning on doing this for a while- I just never got around to it. But yes, the brake fluid needs to be upgraded and my lines have to be bled out.

thanks for the detailed questions and info btw...

 

nice build man any vids ?

 

This was a good read. I love the pictures, and I love the S2000!