Oil consumption on new build...HELP PLEASE
Hey guys, I figured you all know most about engines in this section and I need help with this one. Spun a rod bearing on my turbo '95 DC Teg and replaced with:
All new ACL calico-coated bearings
1 new eagle rod
All new total-seal rings
Specialty coated wrist pins due to wear on mahle wrist pins
1 new endyne valve
new crank
cometic hg
oil pump
ACT clutch assembly
Had everything re-balanced and professionally installed by machine shop that originally built the motor. Broken in with non-synthetic oil. Motor is B18A bored to 84mm with darton sleeves, Endyne head with turbo valve-train, Pro 1 cams, and has around 2000 miles since rebuild. Compression is good on all cylinders and shop said there are no leaks anywhere but its using 1 quart of oil about every 500 miles. Never used any oil before rebuild. No blue smoke out of exhaust and car runs good and pulls hard. Oil turns black pretty quickly after oil change but they said that is normal for a turbo. Any ideas???
Also, I noticed some oil on the line from the stock crank-case breather box to the intake manifold but doesn't seem like that would cause this much oil consumption and there are no spots on my garage floor...?
All new ACL calico-coated bearings
1 new eagle rod
All new total-seal rings
Specialty coated wrist pins due to wear on mahle wrist pins
1 new endyne valve
new crank
cometic hg
oil pump
ACT clutch assembly
Had everything re-balanced and professionally installed by machine shop that originally built the motor. Broken in with non-synthetic oil. Motor is B18A bored to 84mm with darton sleeves, Endyne head with turbo valve-train, Pro 1 cams, and has around 2000 miles since rebuild. Compression is good on all cylinders and shop said there are no leaks anywhere but its using 1 quart of oil about every 500 miles. Never used any oil before rebuild. No blue smoke out of exhaust and car runs good and pulls hard. Oil turns black pretty quickly after oil change but they said that is normal for a turbo. Any ideas???
Also, I noticed some oil on the line from the stock crank-case breather box to the intake manifold but doesn't seem like that would cause this much oil consumption and there are no spots on my garage floor...?
Last edited by HighBoostinTeg; Jun 10, 2011 at 12:54 PM. Reason: forgot some stuff
no, but im sure the shop did because they had to drop the engine after the new build to heli-coil a bolt on the tranny. I will check myself tho, thanks. Any other ideas guys?
Loose piston to wall clearance; burns oil under boost. You probably can't see smoke coming out the tailpipe cause you are paying more attention to what's in front of you when you are at WOT.
I've had people drive behind me under heavy acceleration and they said no hint of blue smoke. And wouldn't the compression test find loose piston to wall clearances?
with that much oil loss it should be easy to find the cause....pull the spark plugs and check to see how badly coated with carbon they are...post a picture here if you are unsure.
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Is oil turning dark quickly really normal for turbo hondas?
When my rings were going, I noticed my oil got dark rather early as well...
Were you running Total Seal rings before too?
When my rings were going, I noticed my oil got dark rather early as well...
Were you running Total Seal rings before too?
yes i was running the same rings before. My oil didn't seem to get as dark before the rebuild. Plus, wouldn't the compression test show if the rings weren't seated? I had 190 on all cylinders after the break-in period. I am getting more carbon on my rear bumper and the exhaust seems stinkier then before but the tuner said the a/f ratios were 14 at idle. I'm guessing its running rich at WOT = carbon on plugs and black oil. But without blue smoke, it shouldn't be burning oil....correct? But you guys know way more than i do so thank you for the ideas.
14 at idle seems kinda rich. Based on what your describing, the whole map seems rich
my roomate had the same kinda problem, no blue smoke, no leaks, vanishing oil., couldn't figure out what was wrong. I thought it was the rings.
How's the blowbye ?
my roomate had the same kinda problem, no blue smoke, no leaks, vanishing oil., couldn't figure out what was wrong. I thought it was the rings.
How's the blowbye ?
Ok so oil consumption because of the rings tolerances most likely? Should I have them pull the head and check it? I don't think there is any warranty on the rebuild but they are a very reputable shop. SRD in tempe, AZ and they have done all the work on the car for the past 2 years. 14 is rich at idle? Hmm, xact Dyno tuner said it was fine. Thanks guys. Anymore explanation or suggestions would be appreciated.
My guess is valve seals. Does it smoke a little at idle or on deceleration? As the car has been sitting idling for a couple seconds and you blip the throttle do you see a puff?
If so valve seals...
If so valve seals...
If you stay out of boost and granny drive it, does the oil stay cleaner longer?
I hate to say it, but it sounds to me like the problem is in the ring/cylinder area...
Oil in that intake/pcv line could be an indication of higher than normal crankcase pressures. (blowby).
I hate to say it, but it sounds to me like the problem is in the ring/cylinder area...
Oil in that intake/pcv line could be an indication of higher than normal crankcase pressures. (blowby).
No cat and no blue smoke, only a little black smoke at WOT but i think thats normal and it cant be seen from my rearview mirrors. The shop only did a compression test, no leakdown yet. I have a vented catchcan with one line to the valvecover and it has never had oil in it. Havent been able to test out different driving styles since I've only changed it twice so far since the rebuild but its my daily driver so I drive it like a granny 95% of the time for better mpg lol.
(this question isn't directed at anyone specific, I'm just curious)
No cat and no blue smoke, only a little black smoke at WOT but i think thats normal and it cant be seen from my rearview mirrors. The shop only did a compression test, no leakdown yet. I have a vented catchcan with one line to the valvecover and it has never had oil in it. Havent been able to test out different driving styles since I've only changed it twice so far since the rebuild but its my daily driver so I drive it like a granny 95% of the time for better mpg lol.
I'm pretty sure neither a leakdown or compression test will tell you how your oil control rings are. They only test the (higher tension) compression rings...
very possible, if you down shift alot and let the motor slow the car down it pulls a huge vacuum in the motor. if you suspect you may have bad valve seals go down the road tack it out in 3rd or so and let the motor slow the car all the way down to a stop and then just pop the throttle in neutral and see if it blows blue smoke



