RPM gauge stopped working
I have a 1988 DX hatchback, with a D16Z6 swap, I was going to work started the car and noticed that the needle stayed on zero and not moving at all, it stopped working, that's the first issue, the second one is, after driving for a few miles and I turn the ignition key off, and try to start the car again, it will start but immediately shuts down, I have to wait a minute or two, start it again with a little tap on the gas pedal and it will stay on idle, I changed the distributor, and the engine still does the same, then I turned it on and off a few more times and somehow it stays on idle, I was guessing that I might have to allow some more time for the engine to run. Any help would be much appreciated, thanx.
-Mike
-Mike
LOL, nevermind.
If the engine bay harness is also from a 94 Civic then there is a 2 pin connector with one blue lead in it, "TACH TEST CONNECTOR" on pass. side of where batt. is on a 94 Civic, use a DVM set to A/C volts and test the voltage at the connector as you rev. the engine. 94
If the engine bay harness is also from a 94 Civic then there is a 2 pin connector with one blue lead in it, "TACH TEST CONNECTOR" on pass. side of where batt. is on a 94 Civic, use a DVM set to A/C volts and test the voltage at the connector as you rev. the engine. 94
LOL, nevermind.
If the engine bay harness is also from a 94 Civic then there is a 2 pin connector with one blue lead in it, "TACH TEST CONNECTOR" on pass. side of where batt. is on a 94 Civic, use a DVM set to A/C volts and test the voltage at the connector as you rev. the engine. 94
If the engine bay harness is also from a 94 Civic then there is a 2 pin connector with one blue lead in it, "TACH TEST CONNECTOR" on pass. side of where batt. is on a 94 Civic, use a DVM set to A/C volts and test the voltage at the connector as you rev. the engine. 94
Did you install an OEM or aftermarket distributor? The latter is a common source of Civic problems. For the tach problem, use a multimeter to test for continuity on the blue wire between the igniter unit and the cluster connector.
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It's a distributor I got from Autozone, I have not use a multimeter, so how exactly is the process to do that?
Actually, RPM gauge issue is still there, but the stalling went away, still not sure what's causing the RPM gauge to act up, any more suggestions how to fix the issue? The motor idles normal and runs normal
Last edited by mibayaua; Jun 16, 2011 at 02:15 PM.
Somehow, the RPM gauge issue went away, after a few days when I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, distributor is also a remanufactured
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