Does this sound like it makes ~200 whp?
I'm about to buy a 94 LS with a built GSR motor in it, and heres some stuff about the car listed (Just the performance aspects of the car) . I was just wondering if it can really make at or around 200 whp with its built motor.
Thanks in advance !
Built GSR block
Motor was built @ Dinan performance in Morgan Hill and has about 15k on the motor, 150k on the cluster.Skunk2 intake manifold wth a 70mm tb, Supertech valvetrain and flatfaced valves. Skunk2 pro2 cams and skunk2 pro series camgears.
Bottom end is a gsr block wth lightened ls crank, eagle ls rods wth forged Arias 11.8:1 compresion.
Short geared b16 transmission.
No P/S & A/C.
This baby turns head wherever it goes. It's truly a performance car. As you drive it, you can feel it just want to pull. @ ~ 200 hp.This takes a sh/t on RSX's and other integras. Every mechanic i've taken it to say this is no regular integra. It's a race car that is tuned for daily driving. Just got oil change, 50 point mechanic check, new clutch & flywheel, etc etc. It's good to go. It just needs a new home. I'm just trying to get out of the import scene.It is tuned but the buyer will need to get it dynotuned (I recommend TwinCam Motorsports).
Update : Is it worth 6500? And should I take a chance since he has no receipts since all the work was done by the previous owner?
-It has a fresh paint job of Frost White.
-OEM Metal JDM Front w/ HID lights, fiberglass lip
-Lowered on Tein Coilovers
-White Rota Circuit 8's
-JDM RSR Exhaust
-Red H Badges
-Momo Steering Wheel
-Shaved Keyholes
-GSR Leather Interior
Thanks in advance !
Built GSR block
Motor was built @ Dinan performance in Morgan Hill and has about 15k on the motor, 150k on the cluster.Skunk2 intake manifold wth a 70mm tb, Supertech valvetrain and flatfaced valves. Skunk2 pro2 cams and skunk2 pro series camgears.
Bottom end is a gsr block wth lightened ls crank, eagle ls rods wth forged Arias 11.8:1 compresion.
Short geared b16 transmission.
No P/S & A/C.
This baby turns head wherever it goes. It's truly a performance car. As you drive it, you can feel it just want to pull. @ ~ 200 hp.This takes a sh/t on RSX's and other integras. Every mechanic i've taken it to say this is no regular integra. It's a race car that is tuned for daily driving. Just got oil change, 50 point mechanic check, new clutch & flywheel, etc etc. It's good to go. It just needs a new home. I'm just trying to get out of the import scene.It is tuned but the buyer will need to get it dynotuned (I recommend TwinCam Motorsports).
Update : Is it worth 6500? And should I take a chance since he has no receipts since all the work was done by the previous owner?
-It has a fresh paint job of Frost White.
-OEM Metal JDM Front w/ HID lights, fiberglass lip
-Lowered on Tein Coilovers
-White Rota Circuit 8's
-JDM RSR Exhaust
-Red H Badges
-Momo Steering Wheel
-Shaved Keyholes
-GSR Leather Interior
Last edited by Mouanology; Jun 7, 2011 at 10:42 PM. Reason: Update
With a proper tune, its possible to be around the 200hp range to the flywheel. I would suggest asking about receipts for all the work done on the motor.
LMAO@ "Every mechanic i've taken it to say this is no regular integra."
LMAO@ "Every mechanic i've taken it to say this is no regular integra."
Yeah I kinda lol'd at that too. He says that he doesn't have the receipts because the previous owner did all the work, which I can believe because on the carfax there was a good amount of failed emissions before the title was transferred to the current owner lol. Should I just take a chance with it? Because its a nice looking teg that i have waited forever to find that looks like this and I really don't want to pass it up. And do you think its worth 6500? A couple other things to note are its a LS body, Momo wheel, White Rota Circuit 8's, OEM JDM Front, Lowered on Tein Coilovers, shaved keyholes, 98 leather interior, and a new frost white paint job. Pictures See below :D (Kinda small but its all craigslist had)






Its a nice car, but i would ask to perform a compression and leakdown test on the engine. Because that is a big investment of money obviously. Also thuroughly inspect for rust, wear on suspension parts and bushings, ps/fuel/brake lines, etc.... For 6500 you should expect that car to be worry free for a long while.
Alright thanks for your help, hopefully I have a chance to take a look at it atleast this week, I've been looking for a teg in this condition for 6-7 months in all of california. And he has alot of people lined up to see it this week.. Wish me luck.
S2P2's with 11.8 comp. will get a car to 200 whp. Check the allmotor dyno threads for comparison.
Can't you ask that guy for a copy of the dyno charts. He'd need to have had it dynoed to get that kind of tuning done. Maybe you could even ask Dinan?
6500 is steep for an Integra but if you want those mods I can promise it'll cost you more than that to buy a stocker and get it up to that point. Whether it's wort it to you is up to you. I don't feel like there's an easy way to put a market on cars like that. They're worth what people are willing to pay for them.
Can't you ask that guy for a copy of the dyno charts. He'd need to have had it dynoed to get that kind of tuning done. Maybe you could even ask Dinan?
6500 is steep for an Integra but if you want those mods I can promise it'll cost you more than that to buy a stocker and get it up to that point. Whether it's wort it to you is up to you. I don't feel like there's an easy way to put a market on cars like that. They're worth what people are willing to pay for them.
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He said the original owner "tuned" it, but never "dyno tuned" it. So most likely it is not tuned like the owner of the vehicle said it was. He prob just chipped the ecu or somethin.
I missed that. That's weird. Maybe he street tuned it?
No way should a car with those mods be running without a proper A/F tune at the very least. Kinda hard to believe no dyno tuning was done.
If so buyer beware.
No way should a car with those mods be running without a proper A/F tune at the very least. Kinda hard to believe no dyno tuning was done.
If so buyer beware.
Yeah he did mention that on a cold engine the cpu doesn't know what to do between 1-2k and a dynotune should easily fix it. He also mentioned its running on a APEXi vtec controller which I heard are crap.. so I might try to invest some in a Hondata and sell the APEXi . Lastly does anyone know how reliable this will be for a DD with its built engine and all?
Sounds to me like this guy didn't know/care what he was doing. Tuning is the last thing you want to cheap out on, and while you can get a safe tune on a car with FPR + VAFC it's a pretty old-school solution and not one that many people would advocate these days. If that engine's been beaten on for 15k it may not be worth much if the tune was never very good (which it soulds like it wasn't).
i feel like anyone can say anything, take the valve cover off and inspect, do a cylinder leakage test. he could be telling the truth about some things and lieing about others, just because u see things on the outside doesnt mean they are on the inside. take it to the dyno whats 70 bucks when ur spending 6500. lol make a little deal, if it makes 200 u pay 6500 and by the dyno if it makes anything less its 5500.... FTW!!
i feel like anyone can say anything, take the valve cover off and inspect, do a cylinder leakage test. he could be telling the truth about some things and lieing about others, just because u see things on the outside doesnt mean they are on the inside. take it to the dyno whats 70 bucks when ur spending 6500. lol make a little deal, if it makes 200 u pay 6500 and by the dyno if it makes anything less its 5500.... FTW!!
But a $70 dyno would be enough to know that the A/F ratios were in order and that the power was as-advertised.
No need for this guy to tune the sellers car before buying it!
Grabbing the car for a quick dyno and a compression test would be a good idea if you're serious but have some reservations. I always check out a car before I buy it. Seller should be willing to give you a day with it.
No need for this guy to tune the sellers car before buying it!
Grabbing the car for a quick dyno and a compression test would be a good idea if you're serious but have some reservations. I always check out a car before I buy it. Seller should be willing to give you a day with it.
Very true about the quick dyno...
1. If you have a compression leakdown tester take it with you.
2. Listen carefully to the block.
3. Check oil levels (too low, most likely he always ran it like that and id be cautious, if over filled, run away)
4. Check spark plugs to see if its running too lean or rich.
5. With car idling, remove the oil cap to see any change in the idle. There shouldnt be any.
6. Look inside to see if the head is being properly lubricated.
There more to look out for but currently cant think lol.
1. If you have a compression leakdown tester take it with you.
2. Listen carefully to the block.
3. Check oil levels (too low, most likely he always ran it like that and id be cautious, if over filled, run away)
4. Check spark plugs to see if its running too lean or rich.
5. With car idling, remove the oil cap to see any change in the idle. There shouldnt be any.
6. Look inside to see if the head is being properly lubricated.
There more to look out for but currently cant think lol.
Very true about the quick dyno...
1. If you have a compression leakdown tester take it with you.
2. Listen carefully to the block.
3. Check oil levels (too low, most likely he always ran it like that and id be cautious, if over filled, run away)
4. Check spark plugs to see if its running too lean or rich.
5. With car idling, remove the oil cap to see any change in the idle. There shouldnt be any.
6. Look inside to see if the head is being properly lubricated.
There more to look out for but currently cant think lol.
1. If you have a compression leakdown tester take it with you.
2. Listen carefully to the block.
3. Check oil levels (too low, most likely he always ran it like that and id be cautious, if over filled, run away)
4. Check spark plugs to see if its running too lean or rich.
5. With car idling, remove the oil cap to see any change in the idle. There shouldnt be any.
6. Look inside to see if the head is being properly lubricated.
There more to look out for but currently cant think lol.
I think this is the same person who wanted to make a trade with my friend. The pictures I saw before didn't have a front lip. He has a dyno chart too.
Really? I clearly asked him if he had proof of it making ~200 whp. The only things he said were I would just feel it as soon as I drove it, and that he saw the dynochart before he bought it from the previous owner. Thats about it, the current owner has only had it for 2 months so maybe your talking about the previous owner?
Really? I clearly asked him if he had proof of it making ~200 whp. The only things he said were I would just feel it as soon as I drove it, and that he saw the dynochart before he bought it from the previous owner. Thats about it, the current owner has only had it for 2 months so maybe your talking about the previous owner?



