Hey honda-tech how you doing . I ran into a promblem with my build . This set-up is in a 94 CIVIC HATCH DX .The motor set-up is a b20 vtec . The car ran when it had the single slammer in it but now with this motor setup it does not run . The motor turns over strong but does not get spark . ive tried main relay , fuel pump primes , spark plugs are new , wires are new , dizzy is new , cap is new , rota is new , all my grounds are there , my thermestat ground is grounded also , all my fuses are good . i get power to my dizzy , the coil in the dizzy gets 12v to it , my motor gets fuel cas i can smell it , i get check engine lights . Ive checked my CEL codes but it dosent throw me any ?? all the lights do is flash with long ... pauses in between each flash . but here is just a quick simple run threw of what my motor is .

specs consist of .

head:
gsr head
00 itr cams ( stock itr gears )
itr retainers
itr valves
itr springs
mild port

block:
rs machine pistons
stock rods
arp rod bolts
acl main , thrust , and rod bearings

misc:
competition clutch
golden eagle lsvtec kit .
edelbrock victor x manifold
70mm tb
skunk 2 IM gasket

Thanks honda-tech . Im open to try new things to get this car running so any input is welcomed . Thanks again

 

Is your timing correct?

What ecu are your running?

Please tell me you are running at least a tuned base map for it.

 

If the CEL is flashing, you have code(s) stored. When you put the jumper in (like you do when you set ignition timing), your CEL should be SOLID if you have no codes...

 

Yea I believe my timming is right , #1 cylinder is TDC my pully lines up with the marking on the oil pump and my cam gears are facing in where they meet the deck height .

I'm running hondata s300 , I got a stock GSR map I had some guy put in .

And my CEL light flashs but there long flashs and long pauses in between ,
When it throws correct codes aren't the flashs suppose to flash fast and slow ??

 

Read through this
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

Long flashes = 10
Short flashes = 1

 

Is the igniter(sp) new? I ran into a problem similar to yours and my ingniter was burnt out. Pull it out and look for burnt brown marks. Just a thought.

 

isnt the igniter in the dizzy ? correct me if im wrong , if so the dizzy is new so that wouldnt be the issue

 

hey man i appreciate ur help but my CEL flased 200 plus times and they where lonngggggggg flashs with long pauses inbetween . it didnt throw any other flashs ,

 

when i plug my ecu ( s300 ) in my car and turn my key ON stage so where the fuel pump primes , my CEL code automaticlly turns on , does that mean i dont got anny codes stored .....???

 

You can check for DTC's using SManager. Plug in your laptop, click on button "Error Codes", and it will display the codes you are currently throwing. Check those and let us know what they are.

 

Oh dammm so all I got to do is put my hondata cd I got in my comp , then have my ecu plugged in and my car on stage 2 ( ON ) then it'll tell me ??!!

 

ok so i plugged my smanager in and had my ecu setup on my comp when i was at my car earlier and these codes came up when i clicked error codes .

code
10 intake air temperature
20 electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool

those are the codes that came up in my smanager software . i dont knoow what any of them mean so if anyone could help ill appreciate it thanks

 

I don't believe any of those codes will cause your car not to start. They shouldn't cause a no spark condition either...

Your absolutely sure the car is not getting any spark correct?
I would disable the fuel pump while diagnosing the spark, so you don't get fuel pooling up and create a fire hazard. Not to mention it will make it harder to start a flooded engine once you get spark back again...

I would double check the wiring from the TDC/CKP/CYP sensors in the distributor to the ecu. Find the wiring diagram, get a voltmeter, unplug your ecu and distributor, and check the continuity of the wires.
Usually a fault with these sensors will trigger the CEL.

Also make sure the IACV and IAT sensor connectors aren't swapped...

 

thats what i was just thinking . I been reading on the codes and i came upon this one thread where some kid said that a car wont start if the iac and iacv are switched .

i got a victor x manifold and where the map sensor and the iacv sensor are i got another little sensor thats not plugged into anything . its a circular sensor .........

 

and yes the car is getting little to no spark at all

 

Is it held in by 2 little screws? if you pull it out, does it have a little probe looking thing on it? If so, this is your IAT (intake air temp) sensor. If its unplugged, this will throw a code. Check the wire colors for this sensor and the IACV( idle air control valve). I dont remember them off hand, but you can switch the connectors.

I am unsure if swapping these will cause a no spark condition. I have heard that it can burn up a resistor inside the ecu (repairable), but IDK what other drivers or components it could harm.

 

im not at my car right now but im pretty sure that i dont got my iat sensor is not plugged in and also im not sure if my map sensor and my iacv sensors are in the right spots ........

 

if i had the map sensor and the iacv sensors mixed would that cause my car to not to get spark ?

 

I dont think its possible to mix up the connectors for the MAP and IACV.
The MAP and TPS share the same connector.
The IAT and IACV also share the same connector.

 

So if I mixed up any of them connectors would any of them sensors stop my car from starting ?

 

TPS and MAP, no but it will run like doo doo...
IAT and IACV, I dont know. Ive only heard/read it can blow a resistor(I think) inside the ECU. I dont know the results of said blown resistor...Sorry.

 

Dammm I hope me switching my sensors will do it cas I been at this for like 1 month and I still can't diagnose it :/

 

Verify the Intake air temp sensor and Idle air control valve have the correct connectors plugged in and swap in a known good ecu.

Did you do any of the wiring for the swap yourself? It seems like the DX engine has a 3 wire IACV and B series have a 2 wire IIRC...

 

Yea I left my stock harness from my 1.5 motor it had and put in my b20v and that was that .... Should I get a ls engine harness since my car is obd1 ??

 

Id double check all the wiring, especially the distributor wiring..
Usually its easiest to keep your stock harness and just modify it to work with your new engine.