me and my buddy are wanting to put the b16 out of my 93 integra in his 89 crx HF. i understand that none of the computers and stuff are the same in each car but cant i just take everything i need out of the integra?????????
will the axles, hubs, and shift links work???

 

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=crx+b16+swap

 

that is showing me with a si not a hf.

 

You can swap the motor and tranny out of the integra. For the wiring use your hf harness and just plug it up to the same sensors that they unplugged from. You can either keep it obd0 or obd1. since you already have a obd1 motor it would prolly be easyier to do obd1. Your going to need the dizzy of the integra and its ecu and the o2 sensor. Buy a jumper harness for your ecu obd0-obd1 and for your dizzy plugs. I recommond getting name brand parts as well because of the quality. As far as axles and hubs you can use the whole knuckle assemble of the integra and axles will work as well. Shift linkage should work I havent presonal tried it yet but will soon .

 

if you go obd-1 u gonna have to run the extra wires for the 4-wire 02 sensor.

 

Intermediate shaft will be reused but not the axles. Unless you mix and match.

Integra spindles will not work with out modifications plus they stick out far and look ghetto.

Shift linkage can work if it is cut down and rewelded.

 

my bad guys its a crx dx, dual point
i have a buddy making me a harness.

i called hmo and talked to a tech he said i could use the axles, he didnt say anything about mixing and matching but i will call him back. thank you

he also said i will need a motor mount kit do you know where i can get a good one cheap?

whats a dizzy?

and if the integra hubs wont work without looking like crap where can i get hubs?

 

Dizzy = Distributor - in ghetto ricer slang, but even I use it because if I say distributor I sound old.

Egay sells B-series for cheap.

If I recall correctly you can use your stock spindles/hubs as long as they aren't the smaller spline ones which I thought came only on the HF (but I am not 100% on this).

I can't remember about the axles right now...

 

you wont need the hubs off of the integra just the axles, they will slip right in to the dx hubs. just did my dx about two weeks ago put a gsr in it

 

we are wanting to go ahead and bore the block a little to start fresh.

whats the stock bore so i can check it to see if it even needs to be bored?

if i bore it what type of pistons would work well with 7 to 15 pounds of boost?

i have a GSR head and intake, what should i do to the head and intake to help in handle boost?

will a stock head and intake handle around 10 pounds stock?

and keep in mind we dont want to spend a ton of money please!!!!!!!!!

 

Whoa, whoa, whoa.... I can already see you are getting in WAY over your head. I know all the information you seek, BUT I can tell you don't have 1/4 of the tools you NEED. Do yourself a huge favor and purchase a repair manual. If you want to keep it cheap then DO NOT MESS WITH THE ENGINE!!! Between fuel upgrades, engine management, turbo setup, pistons, machine work, ect. - even at garage sale prices would cost you over $1k easy.

 

my family friend does my machine work cheap
my buddie is selling us his turbo kit for 300
were not going to mess with fuel systems or management we will just put a tune on it until we have the money to do everything else
i want to know. can my head handle 10 pounds?
pistons?
and were trying to get ahold of a manual

 

1.) Stock fuel system will not support 10psi (injectors).

2.) How else would you put a "tune" on it if you aren't going to touch the engine managment? FMU and retarding the distributor? Still added cost and desperate need for a quality A/F gauge.

3.) The head can handle as much pressure as you can throw at it - more than could ever be created with a turbo setup of any kind.

4.) 10psi on stock pistons is starting to push the upper limits and a good tune/ proper engine management is a must (which you already said you weren't doing).

5.) Seriously, do a crap load of research and don't post in this forum - go in the turbo forum and see if you don't get laughed out of there.

 

well thanks for the info N3va3vaSatisfi3d. i really do admire all the knowledge you have on hondas. but you act like i should know this stuff, if i knew what i was doing i wouldnt be asking questions. is there anybody else that would like to help me out with my questions? someone who doesnt have smart know it all attitude.

will my stock radiator work with this motor?

and how do i tell if the tranny atached to the motor is a lsd tranny? i think lsd is what its called when both tires spin when you break loose right?

and if its not where can i find one? i hae heard they are really hard to get ahold of. or what is another good tranny thats kinda geared low so i can stay in vtech when i shift, or close to it?

 

Listen, I only come off how I do most of the time because a lot of the questions can be answered by searching Honda-tech or simply going to google and typing your question in. From your questions there is an obvious lack or knowledge and experience - not a good way to start a build. You can learn a lot by sitting on the Internet for a few hours of monotonous research. You are asking questions about turbos in a regular tech forum. Your questions may be better answered there is what I was saying (don't worry I post there too). The FAQ's have a TON of information that would be beneficial to you; look through them.

1.) Radiator can work, but it really depends on the turbo and manifold.

2.) Aside from casting stamps, an easy way to tell a LSD transmission from a NON-LSD is to look through the outputs (where the axles go in). If there is a rod/pin it is NON-LSD - if you can see straight through it then it is LSD.

3.) You can get them through your local JDM importer, craigslist, Honda-tech, ect... Expect to pay more towards $800 or so for one with out grinds. Or buy your own LSD for around $300 and put it in yourself.

There - I was a little nicer, now my head hurts.

 

Oh I forgot to answer your other question...

4.) You want close geared transmissions for N/A and a long geared transmission for turbo serums. This can change depending on what you intend to do with the car exactly. For long geared get a LS transmission - they are cheap and easy to come by and have better fuel economy to top it off. Not to be mean, but I can tell you haven't driven a turbo car - or if you did, you didn't pay attention to the power curve.

 

thanks alot man i will start using google before i ask you any more.