I rebuilt a 2001 gsr integra with type R pistons, gates timing belt and water pump, and new gaskets. Something else I may mention I used brake clean to clean out throttle body and manifold. The car starts right up and idles about 600rpms. The car will not rev up it just cuts out when you touch the throttle. But if you slowly touch the peddle off and on you can get it to rev to 3k but once you put your foot 1/16 or more into the gas it just cuts. It doesn't pop, just cuts out until the gas is released. When I scanned the ecu its pulling up TPS code (the pedal stays at 12.2% and will not move even with the pedal to the floor). Also pulled up map sensor which I think is due to the low and poor idle. I don't have a vacuum tester but I can feel its very low which I think may be due to the idle also. I re-did the timing belt a few times thinking timing was off. Checked over all lines, wires, and so on. Anyone had issues like this? Or can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

Also the ecu scanner said the motor was under a 75% load at idle. Plugs come out black. Doesn't really smoke much, some white but its running open header. Thanks

 

I also cleaned all ground cables. One more thing the ECU said 2 degrees advanced at idle and about 0 once it started to warm up. Keep in mind thats at 600 rpms or so.

 

Sounds like you've switched the MAP and TPS connectors... ?

 

Also, mine is running about 16 BTDC at idle... 0-2 degrees BTDC sounds a bit low (retarded). FYI

 

Could it really be that simple? The garage is a distance to drive so I want to be sure before I drive out and try it.

 

Only death and taxes are certain... but the switched connectors are fairly common, and seem likely given the information you've shared. I'd give the pro's some time to get home, read your post, and weigh in if you'd like more confirmation.

Has it worked correctly since the rebuild, or is this your initial attempt since re-installing?

Good luck!

 

The car ran fine prior, it started doing it first time it was ran. I think your right. What kind of vacuum readings should I get? and how much will it drop if I am 1 tooth retarded? Thanks.

 

i have a cam that's a little aggressive (Crower), so that may affect it a tad, but here's what I see at idle:

940 RPM, MAP about 1.3V, or -8.6 PSIg load

Mark

 

I managed to get the sensor clips changed around. After cleaning the plugs and letting it run for a minute it doesn't cut out anymore. But it still idles at 600 and between 600-1300 rpms it is doggy like it doesn't want to rev. Once it hits 1,300 or so it revs and sounds great. When I put the distributor all the way to the front in brings the idle to 850 and idles/runs much better, when I put it to the back it does the opposite.. You think I am off a tooth on the timing, seems like the ignition timing changed how it ran a awful lot?

 

did you set ignition timing correct? engine at operating temp, jumper jumped and the middle dot with the scan tool showing 750rpm?

if you shaved the deck of the block and head you could be a tooth off since you have no real way of lining up the cams short of degreeing them. keep in mind if this motor is fresh like just started fresh it will take awhile for everything to seal and vacuum to return into factory spec.

i almost forgot. you mentioned crower cams. the only set of those i used was ground off and required degreeing. you also HAVE TO TUNE THE CAR

a factory ecu can not control them. the 63401 ONLY can supposedly be ran on a p73 ecu but i wouldn't trust it. the vacuum is different and the map signal won't be accurate for the stock tune

 

The Crower is mine, not the OPs, but you're correct on the timing. It's a 63413 and I am fortunate to have also used adjustable cam gears (!)

As for speedracer, sounds a bit like mine when the cam was a advanced - perhaps not as far off as a whole tooth but could be a degree or two? What do you think, racebum?

You may be right about the cause too - shave off too much on the deck, maybe hone the mains, non-stock head gasket.. all that stuff can shift the cams enough to make you pull your hair out.

So - speedracer94, you have adjustable cam gears?

 

No I don't I actually Built this for a friend. Any way to check my cam timing without pulling covers back off again?

 

If the marks line up, not much left except to experiment with a real or b*tt dyno...

Alternately, if you know the timing you want - a degree wheel and micrometer to measure cam/valve lift...

 

Update: Well I check cam timing and it seems to be a hair off maybe 1/4-1/5 a tooth (which I figure may make it run different but not this much different). I drove the car today and when I take off I haft to ride the clutch and keep the rpms at 2k for it to move. the car moves the same no matter how u have the gas pedal. So 1/4 throttle it will pull the same if not harder then full throttle. I messed with ignition timing but its running pretty rough to get a good reading, and it didnt change how it drove. After driving I pulled codes for lower o2 (there isnt one) and intake temp sensor circuit voltage high. Cold start I see 1.5k rpms with 20 degrees advanced, warm it idles about 600-750 and timing reads about 15 degrees advanced. When I rev it she drops to about 2 degrees advanced then up to 30's+ advanced. Map and tps sensor are working good. I am stumped, anyone know symptoms for the air temp sensor? When I read the sensor it seemed to be reading the temps just fine, it pops the code after driving.

 

This may be a stupid question, someone mentioned the crank may be 360 off. But I don't see why that would matter considering 360 would be right back where it started. Also I routed the belt starting with the crank->tensioner->water pump and ending on the exhaust cam, would that matter?

Also: I just found the engine load dropped to 45% at idle which is better then it was, if I bring it to 1.5k and hold it the load drops to 20%

 

probably meant 180 off. nearly impossible to do with a honda since the keyway only fits one direction

i just vacuum tested a stock itr engine today to figure out which spring to use in the BOV. 23" at idle was the number.

what are your idle vac numbers?

ps if you don't have a vac gauge they are $14.99 at harbor freight

 

I got a boost gauge I can hook up to show me what its running. I know its low for sure. Will low vac show me the timing is retarded? With it be the opposite with advanced timing?

 

vacuum can be multiple things. timing, cam timing, valves, rings

the reading can be a baseline to go off of while you make changes. a healthy b18c should be around 20"

i have a lower mile jdm itr that did 23"

if your engine is broken in it should be over 20"

 

Well I took the timing belt back off to fix a leaking cam seal, re-timed it and she runs like a dream. I bet I didn't have the cams straight across. Wanted to thanks you guys for all your help. Thanks!

 

Excellent!