CAR: 2001 Civic LX sedan.
Problem: My A/C blows but not cold, the fan kicks on, the idle changes, the green light turns on, the low side pressure is green (my gauge comes in blue,green,yellow,red). It has no leaksIve been researching online and the other day I found a thread that had a complete list of all the "diagnosing steps" but I cannot find it again.

Basically I need to verify which fuses in the engine bay do you switch around, and which wires do you ground to bypass the thermal protector and what not to check if that is the problem?

I remember alot of people said that there are 2 wires you connect together and it typically lets you know what the problem is.

Thanks in advance for the reply's and if you have any other easy fixes that are common with the 7th gen civics please feel free to post it up.

 

Is the compressor clutch engaging?

What was the pressure reading? If the refrigerant is below 28psi or above 455psi the pressure switch will not allow the A/C system to work. You might need a recharge.

I wouldn't try bypassing things or crossing wires, that may lead to additional problems.

 

From what I remember the belt thats on the clutch was spinning. I believe it was 31 or 34psi if i remember correctly.

 

The alternator and the A/C compressor share a belt, that's why the belt was moving. That doesn't mean that the A/C compressor clutch was engaged.

 

from what i read online, when the a/c is fully on the center of the clutch is not spinning.

 

Replaced relays, checked fuses, did the hvac dtc and everything is fine. when i looked at the wiring on the compressor I only see a red cable on the thermal protector with a black one next to it, then there is a smaller black one on a connection ABOVE where those 2 are. The other side of that goes up to the radiator support with a blue/red wire. From what ive read everyone is talking about a blue/white wire and a red wire that you jump to check if the clutch engages. Are these the wires?

 

wired the terminals 2-1 and 4-1 on the relay under the dash and it did not kick on. hmm

 

Stop jumping wires together.

I'll send a schematic to you later on, but, in the meantime, I suggest you stop playing with it.

 

You jump two of the under hood relay terminals together to see if the clutch engages. I don't remember which ones though and I don't have my manual with me.

OP: did the AC suddenly stop working or did it kind of sputter out over time?

 

I sent him a schematic so that he isn't blindly crossing wires together.

 

I was following your instructions from another thread that i found where you said how to check the relay under the dash by jumping port 2-1 and 4-1 to see if the clutch engages or not.

We purchased the car almost a month ago and it never blew cold. Condensor fan turns on, a/c light comes on, the car revs up when a/c is engaged, but the clutch is not spinning. Im diagnosing to see what the problem could be. I ran the hvac dtc and nothing came up.

 

So what should i test next?

 

If clutch its not spinning check your compressor clutch gap. I'm assuming you could hear the clutch click when you jumped the relay so logic has it that the gap is too big and the clutch is not engaging when you turn your AC on. The higher idle would back this up.

 

I got the same exact problem with my ex 2 door 95 civic blowing ,but not cold an ac repair tech verified that the clutch engages and told me it needs a part replaced in my dash and it takes 3 to 4 hours is that true? my freon is full with no leaks what part would he be talking about does it really take 3 to 4 hrs to put it in hey i've put in a main relay before is it something easy like that

 

Is there a way to check the clutch gap without taking the alternator/power steering out or evacuating the a/c?

 

been seeing a TON of thermocouplers go this season just a heads up

 

Get a set of feeler gauges and put them in the gap between the pulley and the clutch plate. Nothing major needs to be removed. Unclip the fender liner to get easier access to the compressor.

I think a good gap is something like .020 of an inch. I don't have my book with me so that's from memory. (.020+-.006 inch gap)

 

So you can get access to the clutch from the bottom of the car if you remove the fender lining and bottom plastic protector?

 

I think you can on a del slo.



Clutch set is number 4 so you know what you are looking for.

 

The clearance between the rotor pulley and the armature plate (#4 in the above illustration) should be 0.5 ± 0.20 mm. (0.02 ± 0.006 in.) - Measure it all the way around, not just in one spot.

If it's not within spec, you can buy and install shims to increase (or decrease) clearance, however, you'll need to remove the armature plate to install them.

 

That's the right clearance number. More than likely you'll remove shims. If its still not within spec after removing shims then its time for a new clutch.

 

its on a 2001 civic, not a del sol but ill check it out in a few hours. Any other quick/cheap common fixes you guys wanna throw this way will be appreciated just in case its not the clutch

 

In that case you definitely can access compressor through the splash guard easily.

 

You should also read through this thread. https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/%2A%2A%2Aair-conditioning-c-guide-how-works-when-doesnt%2A%2A%2A-2900177/

 

a/c clutch gap was out of specs, i removed one of the shims and i got it down to .010. clutch is still not engaging.