why isn't my amp turning on? help pls
so one day my amp just wouldn't turn on. i checked the wires, no damage and ground was good. i tried a different amp, still won't turn on. the only way it'd turn on is if i connected the remote wire and the power wire with a little piece of wire. tried that and the sound of the sub was not sounding good. so i replaced the whole remote twice and both times it didn't work on both amps. so i hooked the remote wire straight from the amp to my cigarette power wire. and still didn't turn on. someone help me thanks
Use a digital multi meter (if you don't have one, pick up a cheap one for $10-15)
Step 1> Put it in DC Volts, 20V Max.
Step 2> Place the black lead from meter to your amps ground terminal.
Step 3> Place the Red lead to the amps +12 Batt terminal. You should get a reading of 12 or so volts. If not, your fuse under the hood is shot and/or bad connection at battery, fuse holder, or amp. If it does read +12 go to step 4.
Step 4> Turn key to ON position and make sure the radio is on. Place red lead to the amp's Remote Turn on terminal of the amp. It should read +12 volts or so. If so, everything should be working correctly so you may want to check your ground (step 5)
If it's not reading +12v, then you either have no power on the wire the remote line is tagged into, a bad connection, a break in the remote turn on wire (step 6), a pinch in the remote turn on wire shorting out whatever you have it connected into to get power (step 6), or a bad connection at the amp's turn on terminal.
Step 5> Put the multi-meter in resistance mode, and place the black terminal on your car's NEG battery terminal, or another known GOOD ground point in the car. Place the RED lead from the multi-meter onto your amp's ground terminal. You should get a reading of 0.00 to 0.01 ohms (if you grounded to the battery as the car's chassis isn't a perfect ground). If not, you need to fix your ground.
Step 6> Put your multi-meter in resistance mode and unhook both ends of your remote turn on wire (from the amp and from whatever wire you tagged to get the source power). Place the RED lead of the multi-meter onto one end of the remote turn on lead, and the black on the other (you can use a piece of wire wrapped around one of the probes and connected to one end of the remote turn on wire if the leads aren't long enough to reach both ends). You should get a reading of 0.00 Ohms. If you get something like higher, or the meter reads 0.L then the wire is pinched and/or broken and needs to be replaced. If it reads 0.00, the next step is to undo one lead from the remote turn on wire, and touch that lead to a known good ground point. The meter should read 0.L, which means open loop and that there's NO connection between the remote turn on lead and ground. If it reads anything OTHER than 0.L, then you have a brake/pinch in your wire touching something metal, causing a short.
Hope that helps
Step 1> Put it in DC Volts, 20V Max.
Step 2> Place the black lead from meter to your amps ground terminal.
Step 3> Place the Red lead to the amps +12 Batt terminal. You should get a reading of 12 or so volts. If not, your fuse under the hood is shot and/or bad connection at battery, fuse holder, or amp. If it does read +12 go to step 4.
Step 4> Turn key to ON position and make sure the radio is on. Place red lead to the amp's Remote Turn on terminal of the amp. It should read +12 volts or so. If so, everything should be working correctly so you may want to check your ground (step 5)
If it's not reading +12v, then you either have no power on the wire the remote line is tagged into, a bad connection, a break in the remote turn on wire (step 6), a pinch in the remote turn on wire shorting out whatever you have it connected into to get power (step 6), or a bad connection at the amp's turn on terminal.
Step 5> Put the multi-meter in resistance mode, and place the black terminal on your car's NEG battery terminal, or another known GOOD ground point in the car. Place the RED lead from the multi-meter onto your amp's ground terminal. You should get a reading of 0.00 to 0.01 ohms (if you grounded to the battery as the car's chassis isn't a perfect ground). If not, you need to fix your ground.
Step 6> Put your multi-meter in resistance mode and unhook both ends of your remote turn on wire (from the amp and from whatever wire you tagged to get the source power). Place the RED lead of the multi-meter onto one end of the remote turn on lead, and the black on the other (you can use a piece of wire wrapped around one of the probes and connected to one end of the remote turn on wire if the leads aren't long enough to reach both ends). You should get a reading of 0.00 Ohms. If you get something like higher, or the meter reads 0.L then the wire is pinched and/or broken and needs to be replaced. If it reads 0.00, the next step is to undo one lead from the remote turn on wire, and touch that lead to a known good ground point. The meter should read 0.L, which means open loop and that there's NO connection between the remote turn on lead and ground. If it reads anything OTHER than 0.L, then you have a brake/pinch in your wire touching something metal, causing a short.
Hope that helps
what was happening when your amp originally stopped working, were u playing it loud, were u playing it soft, did it just not work one mourning u went to use it.... let us knoo
Check the voltage on your amp turn on line at your deck. If its good check your main power wire to your amp. If thats good as well, double check your amp ground. If all are good check the amp fuses and such. If all looks fine your amp may be bad.
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