I found driver side outer CV boot torn so I did not drive it for 2 months. Ask my neighbor's friends(mechanics) to replace the CV boot.

I drained transmission fluid before mechanics came in today. Mechanic want to push the car under the tree. Without transmission fluid, we put trans in neutral, push car backward (about 30 feet) under the tree. After replaced CV boot, the car won't start. The mechanics said it was timing belt.

It is looks weird to me if timing belt is broken. I changed timing belt last summer following TouringAccord's procedure. I drove it until a couple month ago without any issues. Now the car parking for 2 months, pushed 30 feet with transmission fluid, remove axle and put back in on both sides(replace CV boot), now timing belt broken?

Please help me. Are there any areas I can troubleshoot this issue?

We did the following:
1. Jump start, does not help
2. did not have any code.
3. Turn on the key, it shows the fuel is full.


Thanks in advance.

 

Update:

For the past 2 months, there are a lot rains in NJ. Not sure it is import or not.

 

Take the distributor cap off and see if the rotor is turning while cranking.

 

Does it turn over, if not then hit the starter? Is the battery bad. Did you check the rotor while turning car over, if it spins then its not the timing belt. Does the fuel pump start? My car 1991 Honda Accord didn't start when I got it, it was the distributor.

 

It's been sitting for 2 months outside with gas and other fluids in it?

Personally I would consider draining all the gas, coolant, oil,checking plugs, injectors, etc

And battery could be dead

 

I will try it tomorrow night. Thanks!


I do not think it turned over. What do you mean "hit the starter"? test the starter? You suggested a lot. I need to read and try to understand. Thanks!


Yes, for the 2 months, all the fluids are in the car. I drained ATF yesterday. I changed engine oil 2 month ago, at that time, I found the outer CV boot torn, so I did not drive it. Coolant is suppose my next thing to do, I bought all the hoses and thermastat. I will read on how to test plugs and injectors. Thanks!

 

If the car doesn't turn over and the battery is fully charged then the starter is stuck. Just hit the starter with a hammer, don't hit it to hard but just hard enough.

 

I did the following today:

1. remove distributor cap, crank the car, the distributor rotor turns.

Does this prove my timing belt not broken?

2. test starter.
multimeter positive terminal connected to starter motor solenoid S terminal, negative terminal connected to battery terminal, crank the car, the meter reading is 8.8V.

The document says it should 10 - 12v, less than 10V means either ignition switch is bad or neutral safety switch is bad.

What is neutral safety switch? where is it?

3. Test battery positive cable voltage drop.
The voltage drop is 0.3v. The battery cable is good.

4. test starter solenoid
using jumper connect battery positive terminal and small terminal on the solenoid, crank the car, the starter motor operated but car still can not started.

the haynes books says either ignition switch, neutral start switch(the same thing as neutral safety switch?) or the wiring is bad.


Thanks!

 

Clean the cables and have the battery tested and charged.

 

I tried jump start the car several times, all failed. Can this rule out battery is not the issue?

I tested battery positive cable voltage drop, it is around 0.3 volt. Is the cable OK?

 

All sound advice, could be as simple as bad gas. Gas does go bad, and you have mentioned it has been rainy in you location could have water in the gas. Have you tried spraying starting fluid in the throttle body while cranking?

 

Yesterday I did the following:

1. I tested the spark plug with spark plug tester. All 4 have spark.

2. Put starting fluid into throttle body. It does not help.

3. Remove distributor cap, crank the car, the rotor turned. I did this test last time also. Just want to confirm timing belt is OK.

4. Pull the spark plugs, all 4 have plenty of oil. I still have the old plugs. I put the old spark plugs in, the car almost started.

I guess I found the issue, the spark plugs are flooded with engine oil. I bought the gasket kit last year, and the plug seal, top and bottom. I was hesitate to do the job, mainly due to bottom seal. Now I have no choice. I only have a little time on the weekend. I will do it this Saturday and will report the result.

 

Try just the upper seals first, might save some trouble....just a suggestion.

 

I changed the spark plug tube seals, both top and bottom.
Car can started. BUT there is a CEL, the codes are

P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected
P1399 Ignition system or misfire, manufacture control

I drove the car in parking lot, back and forward. Suddenly there is loud noise, scary, and car can not move forward or backward.

I scan the code again, still P0304 and P1399. Car can still started, but when I put transimission in D position, it does no move and there is the scary noise no matter I put it in D, P or R, 1, 2. I do not know what is going on. Any suggestions?

When the mechanics change the CV boot, he drop a 12mm deep socket from the distributor area. When I change the head cover gasket, I dropped a 10 mm deep socket from the #4 cylinder area. During the driving in parking lot, I found the 12 mm deep socket on the floor, I did not find the 10 mm deep socket. Is it possible it dropped in some location not suppose to?

The scary sound make me feel the transmission is gone or sth inside transmission to make the noise.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

Did they change the axle correctly? I'm thinking it may have popped out....

Also have you checked the fluids in the transmission? And did you change them?

 

We did not drive due to car can not start at that time. How can I verify the Axle pop out or not?


I drain the transmission fluid before change cv boot and fill the ATF-Z1 after the CV boot job done.

 

There is a snap ring on the axle so it holds itself inside of the trans. It sounds like the axle didnt get snapped into place and the axle "popped" out. After the car stopped and made weird noises did you notice any trans oil on the floor? Does your car only make the loud noise when you put it into gear? If so is got to be an axle issue.

 

Thanks TheMuffinMan and Rayztoyz. I think it again, it is very likely the axle pop out. The loud noise was first heard when I made turns in the parking lot, since then car can not move forward or backward.

I did not pay attention to the transmission oil leaking, probably not on the ground.

I am wondering there is a test to verify axle is not insert right. Turn on the car and shift the transmission probably more damage.

 

I don't really know if there's a test persay, you could look at it and see if any part looks out of place. I personally would just take it apart and reinstall it and just verify everything is in place. IIRC the 'ring' Rayztoyz is referencing is related to ABS and would not be present on your LX model. I don't recall another ring on my EX when I swapped out axles awhile back.

 

Rayztoyz,

I checked the car, there is no oil on the ground. The noise exists only when in gear. Start the car in parking, no extra noise.

TheMuffinMan,

The service manual says

"Pry the driveshaft assembly with a screwdriver, as shown, to force the set ring at the driveshaft end past the groove."

Since it was popped out, maybe no screwdriver needed, the axle can be just pulled out.

I will ask the mechanic back this weekend to reinstall the axle.

I guess the ring is what Rayztoyz mentioned. The # 7 in picture

 

First thing, stop letting this "mechanic" work on your car. If your motor turns, the timing belt is intact.

If you don't have any oil/trans fluid leaking from the seal where there axle meets the tranny, I wouldn't worry about it having popped out. It's been awhile since I owned one of these, but I'm pretty sure you have to have the thing in all the way or else you'll never get the hub over the end of the axle during reinstall.

How long did the car sit with a dry trans?

 

I just looked at the ground, not went under the car to check. When transmission in D or R, the sound is very loud and from metal, I am afraid some parts may got damaged.


One day. I drained the tranny on Saturday, the CV boot job was done on Sunday, then I fill the ATF-Z1 fluid back in.


Thanks!

 

Today when I drove home after work, saw neighbor's friends were waiting for me. They want to check. There were some mistakes during today's repairing. We are already off the original subject, so long story short, the loud noise is due to the driver side outer CV joint end ring, #28 in above picture, not snap in properly.

I have the ring when I bought the outer CV boot. Replaced the ring and reinstall the axle, test drove the car no noise.

Thank everyone for your advises, especially the TheMuffinMan. When heard the loud scary sound and car did not move, I felt I need to tow the car to the dealer, I may lost transmission. When TheMuffinMan suspected the axle, I thought it was very reasonable and can expect the fix is not expensive.

Thanks again!

 

Glad it is on the road again