So guys and girls I think the time to build my motor has finally come. Please note that this is completely unrelated to the other thread where I'm running AllM0T0Rs cams. That motor is in my dads track car. So with that out of the way I'm going to get this show a rollin'.

I'm working with the B18C1 in my street car. Its pretty much bone stock aside from a couple bolt ons. Its beginning to burn a decent amount of oil so I'd rather pull it and build it now than wait until something breaks and makes it unuseable.

I've talked at pretty good length with AllM0T0R about his recommendations and between his suggestions and my wants I think I have a pretty good plan laid out.

So here's what we've come up with:

B18C1 Block:
-Honed and decked to straight
-OEM Honda Bearings
-CP Pistons
-Eagle Rods with the standard ARP rod bolts
-ARP Head Studs
-Stock Gsr Crankshaft
-New Oem Oil Pump
-New Oem Water Pump
-New Oem Gaskets and Seals
-New Oem Head Gasket

B18C1 Head:
-Supertech Flat Face Valves
-Supertech Bronze Valve Guides
-Supertech 85lb Valve Springs
-Oem Honda K-Series Retainers or Supertech Ti's
-New Oem Valve Seals
-New Oem Gaskets and Seals
-Camshafts from AllM0T0R
-Bisimoto Cam Gears
-Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold
-Professional Products 68mm Throttle Body
-440cc Injectors
-PLM SMSP B19 Replica Header

Miscellaneous Stuff:
-Walboro 255 Fuel Pump
-AEM Wideband
-Tuning with Crome Pro
-New Gates Timing Belt

I know I'm forgetting some things, but thats the bulk of it. So what do you guys think? What would you change with in the realm of relativity? I'm really just looking for your opinions because I know someone will throw something out there and I'll have that oh **** moment because I forgot something rather important. So uh yea just let me know what you think. I appreciate any opinions good or bad.

Oh and if anyone sees an area I could do something differently for the same or better quality but cheaper please feel free to chime in. Thanks guys

 

Seems like you've got everything covered there. Any reason for using oem retainers?

 

From what I gather titanium retainers usually last about 30k miles and I'm trying to get this motor to last longer than that. I could use cromoly because they are more durable, but in my book its not worth the extra money to have something slightly lighter than oem that still won't last as long. Especially because I have a set of new ITR retainers in storage that I was going to use.

I may change my opinion closer to when I am buying valvetrain parts but as of now I'm going with Oem.

 

Special cams for this build...special cams, this might qualify as a "stage 2" cam build kekek.

 

Lol. I worked some things out in my budget to where I'd be able to get a set of cams from you off the bat as opposed to swapping them in later.

I'll paypal you a month or two before I think I'll need them.

 

Anybody else? You guys are no fun unless **** is breaking or drama is involved. Lol. This isnt a court room people; silence doesn't equal consent. I want to see what you guys think. Maybe I should have left some stuff out so we'd have something to talk about.

 

The only thing I'd see changing is the timing belt..go with a gates or a greddy..maybe i'm a fab guy, but those belts stand up to abuse.

You've done your research and have seen what works and what doesn't, your build list is good and to the point. Whats going to be really cool is when vtak is crackalacking and you're breaking necks from slamming 3rd gear y0.

 

why not go with OEM honda bearings?
you have a GSR crank so OEM you have tri-metal bearings and you can order the right size and get the proper bearing clearance then just going with ACL's and hoping for the best

 

Lol. I'll go with a gates belt. The only reason I was thinking oem was because I've seen toda belts shred after about 30k miles so I've always been biased to oem belts.

On another note...Doesn't gates make the oem honda belts? If so their timing belt would only be a stronger version of the oem belt. Hmmm I'll look into that more.

 

Also another good point. I've always heard that ACL's can take abuse, but I've never had a problem with oem. I'll have to look into what oem bearings to get after I pull the motor.

Whoot for opinions. Thanks guys keep them coming.

 

stock retainer eeh i wouldnt be to confortable using stock retainer they crack in the middle when you rev high or use a big cam and supertech titanium retainers work good and i my self used them for aslong as i can remember and a lot a people i know i would never use oem bearings if i know ima beat on the motor a lot acl or clevite bearings are good bearings imo..

 

Brody, if you're serious about the retainer issue, lemme point out that a few people are making the move to run RSXS retainers on top of b series valvetrains. It might require some measuring, but i do know one person who might be able to help you out with that question is marc187.

I dont think i've had any problems with Ti retainers actually not lasting, as long as they were properly maintained. I ran Crower's old race valvetrain back in 07, and i kept it on my car for almost four years..went through 6 sets of cams on it too, when i took it out, to put in a new valvetrain, the retainer edges were cut up, but it did last awhile...if i had to guess around 40k miles or so, the car was more of a weekend car/ drag car...but it got daily driven from time to time.

oem bearings are perfectly fine, as well.

 

Since the you are messing with the rest of the bottom end why not lighten and balance your crankshaft. Just a thought. I was also wondering about the oem tb.

 

Ok so now we are at OEM Bearings vs. ACL Bearings and OEM retainers vs. Supertech Ti retainers. Lets get opinions on that.

If those the only two questionable things other than the timing belt then I'd say I'm doing pretty good. Lol

I've always known ACL to be good for more of a build motor, but SR20 brings up a good point about clearences. Whats plan B when clearences are off when using something like ACL, Clevite, or King Bearings? Machining or...?

 

You completely beat me to my last post. Lol. In the long run I guess I'm better off with Ti retainers even if they only last 30k miles. They can always be replaced with out to much hassle.

OEM bearings it is.

 

I believe this is where, you need to sit down and actually find out whats a acceptable bearing clearence to run on a motor like yours. Your motor and Mine are two different things. My rod and main clearences are both different from what you should run, normally, you'd want to stick as close as possible to oem spec, without being "too" tight, or too loose. There is a acceptable tolerence though.

ACL makes outstanding bearings, other then oem, thats really the only other bearings i'd run. I've built a few customer's motors using KING bearings and they seem to do fairly well too. I've seen too many failures from clevite's to even think of using them.


I dont think you will have a problem with supertech's retainers. @ every 6 months, check your valvelash, make sure the cam caps and covers are all torqued correctly, and dont overrev if you dont need to...Doing this puts less stress on all of your valvetrain componets. If your dead set on a oem retainer, run a RSX-S retainer..i wouldn't run a stock gsr or ITR retainer.

 

Its balanced from the factory and honestly I think I'm probably better off leaving it well enough alone if you know what I mean.

What do you mean by oem tb? Timing belt or throttle body? I assume timing belt but ya never know. Are oem belts really that bad or is it just more of an insurance thing?

 

Here's a cheat sheet to start out @..

Main Bearing thickness by color

Blue 2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793”- 0.0791”

Black 2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791”- 0.0790”

Brown 2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790”- 0.0789”

Green 2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789”- 0.0788”

Yellow 2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788”- 0.0787”

Pink 1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787”- 0.0785”

Red 1.995-1.992 mm 0.0785”- 0.0783”

Rod bearing thickness by color

Blue 1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594”- 0.0593”

Black 1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593”- 0.0592”

Brown 1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592”- 0.0591”

Green 1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591”- 0.0590”

Yellow 1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590”- 0.0589”

Pink 1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589”- 0.0587”

Red 1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587”- 0.0586”

 

As far as clearences...I'd probably go towards a looser end of oem spec. I'd rather run it a little looser than tighter. Its a daily so I'm not going to run super loose clearences, but yea...

And at this point Supertech retainers it is. I'm probably a lot better off.

Thanks for all your help and info.

 

Holy ***** you type fast. Lol

If I remember correctly I should be starting with greens all the way around and measuring off that. I think to get near .002 clearence on the rod bearings on my dads motor I ended up needed all yellows and a pink if memory serves me right. I think I set the crank at oe spec with all greens and a brown or something like that. Hard to remember that far back.

And dont get me started on clevite. Last motor My dad had used clevites. Burned up a bearing in two race weekends. Complete failure.

 

This is the kind of info I was hoping to get out of this thread. Very awesome stuff.

 

I'm trying to take a ****, and i can't..so i'm on the laptop. I need to be sleeping, should have been 2 hours ago..but i'm on here typing to you fools!

 

Don't you just love me. Lol

 

how far away from boston are you?

 

Decent ways why do you ask? Only like 8 hours according to mapquest. Pssh.