I went to finally tune my car today and had no progress due to trying to get away with the stock clutch it kept slipping after about 45000rmps so now i gotta get new clutch sooner then i was expecting im thinking stage four 6 puck where can i find gud ones????

 

I've got a brand new Comp Clutch 6 puck sprung hub I'm going to install soon, I'm hoping to hit 400hp on it.

My buddy has the same clutch in a boosted B motor he put down ~370hp with, and he likes it.

 

yea so far everyone been telling to go with that clutch lol think that might have to be it gud luck on yours tho

 

I have always been a fan of ACT. I had their six puck in another car. The thing grabbed very well and the pedal pressure wasn't bad. I'm sure a lot of companies make good clutches though.

 

I've had a stage 2 Competition Clutch in my car for like 6+ years. Its amazing.

 

I've heard mixed reviews on ACT clutches. I'm not speaking from experience though, so take it with a grain of salt.

 

thanx ill have to think about competition or ACT

 

i had an f1 racing clutch stage 2 on my cb a while back. you can get the kits cheap with fidanza flys 11lb or 8.5 lbs for cheap like 250 $300 its rated to 300hp

 

I would never trust a clutch company who rates clutches by horsepower. Torque is the monster that will tear a clutch up, not horsepower.

 

I have heard some bad things about every company I have ever heard of...you just have to take experience into account. Someone will always have a bad experience and they will spread it when the real problem could have been an incorrect install or a rare defect. Just need to do some research.

 

^^ this guy has the right idea.

That being said, unless you're willing to spend > $1K on a clutch, there aren't as many options for the F/H block as there are for say a B series.

That actually helps you because there will be lots of info and strong opinions on the few low to mid budget clutches available.

Just keep searching.

 

it has the tq rating too @ 280

 

just saying for the money i liked it alot and the light fidanza flywheel makes a big diffrence

 

I have good luck with Competition Clutch as well as RPS, and Clutch Masters. Just as long as don't buy too much clutch for your car as well. If your just a street car with some basic mods go for a HD Pressure plate with a HD copper/metallic piece.

 

The big differences between clutches are the material they are made of and whether the hub is sprung or unsprung.

The difference in the material is the hardness and the cooling capacity.

Sprung vs unsprung is really more about your intended use than your power output, until you get to high tq/hp applications.

If you're going to drive on the street you'll generally want a sprung hub, this is what causes the clutch to have "play" or "give" from the time it starts to engage until it is fully engaged. Unsprung hubs have no "give", they just snap in.

Once you get to high tq/hp applications the springs in the hub can fail more easily, which is why you would switch to an unsprung hub. This causes the clutch to be more of an on/off switch, if you don't have high enough tq/hp you'll have to try to "slip" an unsprung clutch at stop lights, or the car will die when the clutch just snaps in. This slipping of the clutch can cause premature wear and "chatter" as the plate is being engaged.

Armed with this knowledge, decide on a material and sprung/unsprung call the different manufacturers and ask questions about their processes and what they think they do better/different than the competition.

Also, all I am talking about here is the clutch disc itself, there are even more variables when you start talking about pressure plates and flywheels.

The basics of pressure plates are:

Clamping load: which is how much force the pressure plate applies to the clutch and flywheel. This also affects the feel of the clutch in the car, the heavier the pressure plate the heavier your pedal will feel. Hydraulic systems mitigate this greatly, but you'll still feel the difference.

Basket construction: Different companies make their pressure plate baskets differently, different materials, design, and construction methods. The stronger the basket, the less flex there will be in the clutch assembly as it is clamping. Under higher power, this flex can let any good clutch slip.

Flywheel considerations:
The main concerns here are material and weight
Material: This is obvious, the stronger the material, the greater the longevity.

Weight: This isn't so obvious. Yes, the lighter the flywheel, the faster your motor will spin up, giving you faster acceleration. What isn't often taken into consideration is that the lighter your flywheel, the less rotational mass and inertia your drive line will have. What this means is that when you are coasting along at say 30 or 60 mph, the car will tend to slow down because that weight that used to help keep the motor spinning isn't there. So, if you want a drivable car, go light, but not so light that you have to constantly watch your speed-o.

We can recommend all day, based on our decisions and experiences, but you're the one that is going to have to live with the car.

You might want to ask, what clutch are you using, why/how are you using it, and how has it held up?

If you think about it, a person could legitimately recommend a Tilton twin disc, or an OEM replacement, with good reason, but you won't know why till you ask.

 

other than a really stiff pressure plate, i really enjoyed my action 2ks clutch. I have a competition twin disk now but i cant give a review on it until its running.

i hated my ACT clutch.

 

i just put in a act 6 puck hd didnt drive with it yet but the peddle feels nice and stiff i like it n/h

 

Just put an Exedy Stage one in my sons prelude. Nice clutch. Took out an ACT stage 2 and it was pretty shot and not to mention the hot spots all over the aluminum fly wheel disk. Did alot of research and depends on what you are using the car for and amount of traffic you drive in. they all have their good points and bad points.

 

And don't be afraid to mix and match, if you find you like the disc from one company and the basket from another.

 

wow this is why i love this website couldnt ask for any better help, ya r right ima call the manufactuer c what they can tell me as well.. once again thanks a whole lot guys...

 

This weekend I was talking to some of my friends that have had the Comp 6 puck before. They were telling me that in order to break it in you've gotta be real harsh with it, slip the **** out of it and heat it up and cool it down.

I know when we went down to dyno my buddy's turbo civic it was slipping over 7K and he had tried to break it in like a stock organic, being careful, not going over 4K, etc. When we got back from the dyno he was harsh as hell to it and it seems to be holding awesome now.

Just thought I would throw that out there.

 

wow thats new to me never heard that on clutches be for. my grandparents do that to there new cars lol beat the hell out of them when they first get them then after so long they go back to driving like old people. seems to work for them....

 

lol wow thats real interesting and weird but real useful to ill have to keep tht in mind. i plan on getting it sometime towards the end of the month

 

The "beat the hell out of it" approach has been around for a long time, my great grandfather used to do that to his new cars, he swore it seated everything in better.

 

lol gud old man