So heres the run down me and my buddy recently just build a poor mans type r setup and dyno tuned it recently and was wondering if the numbers i made were low?
setup
B18c gsr bottom end stock
gsr crank with gsr rods and with ctr pistons close to 12:1 compression correct me if im wrong
B16 head with skunk2 pro2 cams
three angle valve job with skunk2 dual springs and retainers
stock injectors just running walbro 255
skunk2 intake manifold with a skunk 70 mm throttle body, aem intake manifold gasket
running replica rmf narrow headers
hondata s300 tuned on a dynojet

numbers were 203.65hp/131.90tq

 

If you're a poor man, why are you building engines?

 

haha thats a good question

 

Switch to pro1 cams. Thanks me later.
What kind of dyno?

I have a similar setup:
82mm GSR block
GSR crank, rods, PR3 pistons
B16 head, ITR cams, RMF narrow
Yowaii SS intake
Dynod w/ my ws2 on made 175whp 133tq
Open header w/ 3" intake and BPi stack-- untuned made 187whp 135tq
This was on a Dynopak

 

With ctr pistons your closer to 12.7:1 compression.

Your numbers are reasonable. Do you have a dyno graph for it?

With that setup your close to if not maxing out the oem 240cc injectors. I'd throw in a set of 310cc's or 440cc's and run them on a low duty cycle to get a nice spray pattern.

Were the cams degreed in properly?

I'll never understand why people call a setup like that a poor mans type r motor. That cost more an made more power. Lol

 

it was tuned on a dynojet and basically the stock oem injectors were maxed out during tuning,thinking about up grading them soon and re tuning it hoping for better results, have dyno sheets in hand ill take a pic and show u guys the results and cams were dialed in oh and the compression im pushing is just borderline from being overcammed by the skunk 2 pro2s said by the tuner

 

You need bigger injectors.

 

what you really meant to say was you made a GSR with b16a head hybrid. this is no type-r.

your numbers seem good. a little bigger injectors will help out more. also the 255 is kind of a waste.

 

To give everyone a little history lesson, back in the day when swapping in a type R motor was all the rage (before B20's), the swaps were fairly expensive because they were in demand. People started to figure out that they could purchase the GSR motor for at least 30% less, swap in ITR pistons and have a "poor mans type R" for a lot less than an actual one even though the engines would be more or less identical and capable of similar power outputs. Some people would bolt on the PR3 head to make it an even closer match but the GSR head was better in most cases, especialy with a good valve job. Back then it was hard to get any aftermarket intake manifolds for the GSR head so that's why many switched out to the PR3.

Doing to a motor, what you did here is NOT even close to a "poor man's type R", it is just a 1.8L engine build and the numbers look about right for what you have done. You are not over cammed with the compression you are running but you do need larger injectors.

 

I agree with 310's or possibly 450's if looking to do more or spray in the future... Those cams are fine. Pro2's make more power than Pro1's even on 11:1 cpr motors, it just takes a bit more tuning.

 

The lowest I'd go with pro 2's on a 1.8L is 11.5:1 compression as I feel the pro 1's would actually be a better fit up to that compression level.

 

I feel the same way. The pro 2's probably make better peak HP over 9k, but revving it out to get the power may not be as efficient as Pro 1's which peak prior to 9k, and probably make better peak power lower. Just my opinion. Its more practical and usable...if this was a full track car then I could see a valid arguement.

 

I've found that they make even less at peak than that and actually lose close to 10whp after VTEC engages (and that's when it's set at 6400rpm) before it finally climbs back up at the peak. That was on my motor which is 11.3:1. The pro 1 cams wouldn't drop like that and should have a slightly lower VTEC engagement.

 

is this setup yeilding better gains than just a straight through GSR motor? im probably getting a gsr in the future and was thinking bout doin an almost exact similar setup. and 00Red SiR. bein that the b16 head flows better would it be better for boost in the event that i would choose to.? i highly doubt it happening but JUST incase.

 

The GSR and B16a heads flow virtually the same but the GSR head is considered to be a "better" street/strip head on some builds because of it's port design and angle as well as quench pads etc. Once you start having either head professionally ported, the differences/advantages between the two, becomes even less. You can't really go wrong with using either head unless you're using a domed piston in which case the B16a head tends to be a better choice.

 

Absolutely. QFT

 

Newer pumps with the right injectors, be it NA or FI, is never a waste. This keeps the OEM pump from overworking to use the larger injectors, and less wear on the components.

 

doesn't it raise fuel pressure to an unneeded amount? causing wear on the FPR?

and if you have a 255 wouldn't you not have an oem pump anymore?
plus 190 for most NA builds is more then enough. boost is a different story.

 

yo sorry to thread jack.
but i need help since there not that much of poor man R treads.

Current setup:
B18c1 bottom
B16 head
Type R manifold
supertech dual valve springs retainers
Skunk 2 tuner 2 cams
Ctr pistons stock gsr rods

the question is would it all be worth it
and can i drop a valve since the ctr Piston is really high dome

 

A 190 is better for N/A and most boost applications unless you want to exceed 425 crank hp, then you need a 255.

For most boost and N/A a 190 is just fine.

 

My build is just a gsr with 81.5mm type R pistons, skunk2 intake manifold, greddy header, omni power 70mm throttle body, comp cams dual valve springs, crower 63403-2 cams, deatschwerks 420cc (at 40psi) injectors, and an aem fuel pressure regulator set at 40 psi. I lean out above 7000 rpm... Now, I know the injectors flow more than enough for my application... I wonder where the lack of fuel is coming from??? Could it possibly be my stock 190lb/h fuel pump??? Hmmmm, I believe so. A larger fuel pump should be used on any built engine... The more power you make the more air and fuel you need... Considering the stock fuel pump is designed for an engine making 170bhp, it'll fall on its face when you ask it to supply enough fuel to run a 250Bhp engine.

 

And this setup is tuned how.....???