Another civic wont start thread.
Thanks everyone for helping me with my last problem and guiding me thorugh it. I now have another problem. It wasnt till 3 days ago my car wouldnt start in the morning. Since then I have changed the spark plugs,dizzy,water pump, thermostat. I checked for fuel and spark and have both. I replaced the main relay and went through every fuse. I did a compression test and it turned out to be 26 on all cylinders which I'm thinking I did the test wrong. During the test I removed the ecu fuse, dizzy plugs, and all spark plugs. When I cranked it over I help the throttle open. This is how I've been told to do it from researching, correct me if I'm wrong please. It is cranking, just doesnt want to start at all. The fuel pump primes like it should and I am not hearing any weird noises. I just adjusted the valves last night and got a new valve gasket set. Let me know what you guys think. It is also mpfi This is my dd and need it as soon as possible. Thanks for your time, any help is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by lovemyhonda17; May 19, 2011 at 05:45 PM.
The car was sitting for a year. But would an injector really just go out the next morning . I also just got done messing around on it and found a little broken off piece on the valve cover where the spark plug grommet goes, but it was probably like that before it shouldnt affect anything.
If you have a 26 psi I am taking that it has no compression. Does it sound odd when starting? You should re-do the test. Also you overhauled the complete ignition system? So that means the cap, rotor, wires aswell?
Go to you tube and look up how to do a compression test. I found a vid. on it one time. The guy was testing comp. in an older car, but the concept is the same. If you have spark and fuel, compression and timing are all that are left.
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Ya i did it like the video just didnt do a wet test and i removed the ecu fuse. Ill do the test all over agan tommorrow after work and let u know what it came out like. Im also going to check my timing THanks for the vid
Compression test-
Cylinder 1 dry test-25. Wet test-30
Cylinder 2 dry test-36. Wet test-50
Cylinder 3 dry test-48. Wet test-45
Cylinder 4 dry test-52. Wet test-53
I followed the video exactly. I was checking my timing today also and my belt was jumping while doing the test. I'm going to tighten it up. What do you all think.
Cylinder 1 dry test-25. Wet test-30
Cylinder 2 dry test-36. Wet test-50
Cylinder 3 dry test-48. Wet test-45
Cylinder 4 dry test-52. Wet test-53
I followed the video exactly. I was checking my timing today also and my belt was jumping while doing the test. I'm going to tighten it up. What do you all think.
if not your ****ed.but the compression goes up a lil on the wet test and i dought you installed it wrong cuz it seems youve done enough reaserch to figure out if ur ****in up...if you wana stop guessing ,do a leak down test to figure out where your losing compression...but then again if your TIMING belt was jumping then your tensonior is probibly bad and you bent your valves..stop messin with it cuz ur just messing it up more...
Ya right now my timing belt keeps jumping no matter what I do, so I'm stopping like ef cowboy suggests. I think i'll try a leak down test. I don't know how to do it but I'll research. I also tightened the timing belt and my compression went up at from 5 to 15 on each cylinder why??? I'm beginning to think its something with my timing. Cause I don't see how my motor has bad piston rings or anything with only 138,00 original miles and it was working the night before.
if your injectors were stuck then it could literally wash out your rings but it would drive shitty.And the compression went up cuz the valves werent opening when they were supposed to thus not sukin like she should lol.now they are BUT if your timing belt jumping then you bent your valves for sure.unless these are not interference motors...google will tell you if they are.if so take the head off and get to work
I have no idea what an interferance motor is never heard of that. Its a d16a6. I bet it did bend my valves that could explain the loud ticking in the mornIngs they were prolly always going out. Is there a way i can tell if they are bent for sure.
An interference engine is basically if the timing belt breaks the piston will collide with the valves causing them to bend. There's more of a scientific process to it, but that is essentially all you really need to use it for.
Update- cant find a tester anywhere. Maybe ill just replace the valves. And get a new tensioner. Is the tensioner the reason why my belt is slipping? If i replace the vales and no start what else could it be? Maybe injectors? Where do you guys think i should start? Im sorry for all the questions just needing help
Last edited by lovemyhonda17; May 20, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
Just found out my engine is an interference engine and I heard the d16a6 is strongly against bending valves, even with broken timing belts. I'm thinking if I replace the tensioner it will aviod from skipping teeth and give me a solid compression number.
Got a new compression tester. Same results. Got a radiator tester, I don't know if it would help but no leak from it. What else to try. All fuses still good double checked them! Help me out here


