What motor oil to use on my 2.0 lsvtec 85x89mm
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hi ht i not sure what oil to use on my built all motor lsvtec i used royal purple but it it sound like my motor knocks loud with royal purple
plus this is my track car so i dont drive it i just set it at one place for long time and started the car almost everyday, It have an 12:1 compression wesico piston i heard redline is good but not sure what is best for my motor that just set only?? something i drive it but not far just my street to c how it feel only help me out thank you ht
plus this is my track car so i dont drive it i just set it at one place for long time and started the car almost everyday, It have an 12:1 compression wesico piston i heard redline is good but not sure what is best for my motor that just set only?? something i drive it but not far just my street to c how it feel only help me out thank you ht
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yeah true my motor does knock little but im not sure if it normal cuz it a built 2.0 lsvtec so this is my first time owning one. it does knock that bad too it run really good no smog i just ran at the track like 4 run only no more then that it barely have like maybe 900 miles on it only and was bore and sleeves by laskey racing with benson stamped. But what u guy think what oil would be best for my motor ??? redline 10w-30???
that knocking could be piston slap which is normal on forged piston engines...royal purple is good oil...but if its a race engine run bradd penn racing oil...nothing sold at autozone etc will have the zinc content of a racing oil....but piston slap is normal and no oil will cure it...also the thickness of ur oil depends on how loose/tight your clearnces are..just run what laskey racing recomends as far as weight...i imagine you have it tuned...with that compression you will knock if ur not tuned correctly...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yk0B-ADshJ4
my 2.0lsvtec knock sound and how it sound is just like this one on youtube. is it normal because of the forged piston??
my 2.0lsvtec knock sound and how it sound is just like this one on youtube. is it normal because of the forged piston??
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Rotella has awesome weight choice and uses zinc. I know many people that swear by it. I myself use Mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic. Mind you it is also in the mid 90's in the summer so the 10w isn't a problem here. Thick oil can mask engine troubles and leaking but that is just covering up what will go boom twice as hard lol.
that sounds more like its coming from the head than the block....could be the heavy spring pressure on valve springs...or worn out LMAs...doesnt sound bad though i wouldnt worry about it...forged piston if they are run loose they will slap at idle when they havent expanded...some more than others...4032vs 2618....2618 expand more so they need to be run looser than 4032 alloy....look up what yours are...i think wiseco are 2618...piston slap sounds more like a diesel engine...
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1994 B18B Block Benson Sleeved to 85mm
85mm WISECO shelf pistons
EAGLE LS Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
89mm LS Crankshaft
ACL “Race” Rod Bearings
OEM Honda K20A Main Bearings
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Kit
Cometic Copper Sprayed Head Gasket
1997 GS-R Head
Rocket Motorsports SL Dual Valve Springs
Rocket Motorsports Ti Retainers
SUPERTECH Stock Sized Flat Faced Valves
NEW OEM Honda Spring-style LMA’s
Golden Eagle Vernier Cam Gears
Skunk2 Pro2 Camshafts
This is what it have and i do have all the clearance ill post it
For this build I chose to go with Wiseco shelf pistons, EAGLE H-Beam rods and ACL bearings throughout.The crankshaft had just enough material removed from the mains to get the clearances I was shooting for.The four outer mains were all .0017-.0018" while the center main was .0019". To obtain the rod bearing clearance I was looking for, I selected ACL's standard bearing size for the upper portion of the rod, and their .001" undersize HX bearing for the lower half. It doesnt really matter where you put which size bearing in relation to the rod, this is just how I did it, and found an extra .0005" clearance.
I chose to go with brand new , spring style LMA's to replace the old hydraulic units. My old LMA's were OK, but since this was a complete rebuild, I figured might as well
This is how this motor build
85mm WISECO shelf pistons
EAGLE LS Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
89mm LS Crankshaft
ACL “Race” Rod Bearings
OEM Honda K20A Main Bearings
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Kit
Cometic Copper Sprayed Head Gasket
1997 GS-R Head
Rocket Motorsports SL Dual Valve Springs
Rocket Motorsports Ti Retainers
SUPERTECH Stock Sized Flat Faced Valves
NEW OEM Honda Spring-style LMA’s
Golden Eagle Vernier Cam Gears
Skunk2 Pro2 Camshafts
This is what it have and i do have all the clearance ill post it
For this build I chose to go with Wiseco shelf pistons, EAGLE H-Beam rods and ACL bearings throughout.The crankshaft had just enough material removed from the mains to get the clearances I was shooting for.The four outer mains were all .0017-.0018" while the center main was .0019". To obtain the rod bearing clearance I was looking for, I selected ACL's standard bearing size for the upper portion of the rod, and their .001" undersize HX bearing for the lower half. It doesnt really matter where you put which size bearing in relation to the rod, this is just how I did it, and found an extra .0005" clearance.
I chose to go with brand new , spring style LMA's to replace the old hydraulic units. My old LMA's were OK, but since this was a complete rebuild, I figured might as well
This is how this motor build
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yeah sound like a diesel that how it sound when it warm up all the way to normal temperature. would rotella t6 full synthetic be cool??
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cibao if i used bradd penn should i use 10w30 ?? since i saw some very good review on ht about brad penn oil oh forgot to mention right here i live in summer get up to like 100 to 110 degree in summer and winter get as low as 30 to 40 degree only
Last edited by allmotorgsr98; May 19, 2011 at 01:27 AM.
i would use brad penn cause its a racing oil with alot more zinc than oil sold to the public...10w30 sounds good..you have upgraded valvesprings and pro2s which are big cams...they are gonna be louder than your used to cause the primary lobes are bigger than oem...and spring pressure on those springs is also higher than oem...the extra zinc will help reduce wear on rockers...newer oil have less zinc cause newer cars use roller rockers like k-series and zinc messes up catalist converters so they have reduced it...on anything "built" people should use racing oils or zinc additives on the regular oil...but laskey built it so u have nothing to worry about.. the sound is normal...it was built looser so you can rev it and beat on it...
i would use brad penn cause its a racing oil with alot more zinc than oil sold to the public...10w30 sounds good..you have upgraded valvesprings and pro2s which are big cams...they are gonna be louder than your used to cause the primary lobes are bigger than oem...and spring pressure on those springs is also higher than oem...the extra zinc will help reduce wear on rockers...newer oil have less zinc cause newer cars use roller rockers like k-series and zinc messes up catalist converters so they have reduced it...on anything "built" people should use racing oils or zinc additives on the regular oil...but laskey built it so u have nothing to worry about.. the sound is normal...it was built looser so you can rev it and beat on it...
I would not run your intake like that what so ever, thats got to heat soak wicked bad next to your header.. I'd run it by the fender or just use a short ram.
I run royal purple 5w30-10w-30. Ive also ran the Motul oil and Torco which both are better then RP in my eyes, but hard to find around where I live so I just stick with royal purple
I run royal purple 5w30-10w-30. Ive also ran the Motul oil and Torco which both are better then RP in my eyes, but hard to find around where I live so I just stick with royal purple
Ask the person who built it...
Whats oil pressures looking like?
Rotella and most diesel oil have higher levels of zinc also from what Ive read...
Whats oil pressures looking like?
Rotella and most diesel oil have higher levels of zinc also from what Ive read...
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nah i wont run my intake like that lol yeah the problem is my oil pressure gauge just mess up it was going up and down like crazy then now it set at 0 pressure now im trying to fix it with new sending unit or buy a new gauge.
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this how my intake setup for velocity stack sticking out for the headlight lol ill post up a video how the knock is on the weekend to c if u guy know if its bad or not
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sorry guy i bring back my old thread i have a video now so im sure my 2.0 lsvtec knocking and dont sound normal i dont drive the car daily it a race car so i dont mess with it just start up once a while and drive for a bit only...
so what do all of you guy think it would help alot
so what do all of you guy think it would help alot
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