WHAT COMP. PISTIONS DO I USE?
ok i have all stock setup in my b18c spec R 2 of my piston ring glands broke on 2 of them when i pulled it out. i am running a GSR crank bc i just cant find another R crank. i wanna raise my compression so i wanna know what compression pistons i can use with the stock ITR cams without interference. if it matters i have a blox intake manifold and a 68mm TB on it. thanks for any help
go with jdm itr pistons...11.1 compression...and go 81.5mm get block bore and honed..keep oem R rods they can take it...or p30 b16 pistons if you want it higher than 11...
you don't fry ringlands unless you had a massive oil burner and they just finally lit up or your tune is off.
address that before you continue
crank wise the gsr and itr cranks are similar and interchange.
if you're boosting the car something like a mahle 4032 piston will take more abuse.
address that before you continue
crank wise the gsr and itr cranks are similar and interchange.
if you're boosting the car something like a mahle 4032 piston will take more abuse.
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P30's are a good option, just don't have a coated skirt.
If you go in the block do it right especially if your looking for higher compression and HP... forged pistons and rods.. and also I would not recommend boring a block out unless you plan on sleeving it. and titanium valves, valve springs and retainers would be a good compliment as well.. for example common mistake made is forged piston and stock rods.. (bad idea) the motor will only be as strong as its weekest link..research before you make your decision & good luck to you
no the ring glands broke like pieces are missing from 2 of the pistons someone gave me bad info before when i got the engine like 2 years ago and just not got around to getting it back together and they said "o it should be ok to run 10-40 in it" ..ya not a good idea knowing what i know now. and im just tring to put it back together not looking for anything crazy just figured might as well upgrade it while its apart but dont have any extra money for new rods and things or id def be just doing the whole engine. ill post pics of them when i get some
if you're doing this on the cheap
1. check cylinders for out of round. if they are still true and not scratched you can just rehone and run an 81mm nippon piston
2. if they are out of round to some degree and it's quite possible they will be just buy the 81.25mm pistons and bore over
3. the deck of your block is probably warped. i have yet to see a 100k b18c that didn't have a distorted deck. spend $50 to have it trued up again
4. you can reuse your bearings provided they go in EXACTLY as they came out. make sure all the threads are extremely clean and you use an accurate torque wrench..this means SK or better
1. check cylinders for out of round. if they are still true and not scratched you can just rehone and run an 81mm nippon piston
2. if they are out of round to some degree and it's quite possible they will be just buy the 81.25mm pistons and bore over
3. the deck of your block is probably warped. i have yet to see a 100k b18c that didn't have a distorted deck. spend $50 to have it trued up again
4. you can reuse your bearings provided they go in EXACTLY as they came out. make sure all the threads are extremely clean and you use an accurate torque wrench..this means SK or better
If you go in the block do it right especially if your looking for higher compression and HP... forged pistons and rods.. and also I would not recommend boring a block out unless you plan on sleeving it. and titanium valves, valve springs and retainers would be a good compliment as well.. for example common mistake made is forged piston and stock rods.. (bad idea) the motor will only be as strong as its weekest link..research before you make your decision & good luck to you 

Here is an example.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/shodan-project-she-2915107/
basicly im not gunna get it done by the time i want due to other problems.. soooo
now imma do a complete build i figure "why not" soo my first question for you all is should i get a forged GSR crank or a forged ITR crank to start with i already know i want H beam forged rods i also need to know what i can bore too max and at the same time what size sleeves i should use. if i get those then ill move on building it NA no boost for this engine.
now imma do a complete build i figure "why not" soo my first question for you all is should i get a forged GSR crank or a forged ITR crank to start with i already know i want H beam forged rods i also need to know what i can bore too max and at the same time what size sleeves i should use. if i get those then ill move on building it NA no boost for this engine.
if you're gonna do a complete build contact golden eagle and have a talk. as for the itr/gsr crank. take which ever you already have. they are too close to worry about buying a different one. besides, clean, non damaged cranks from either engine are not easy to always come by
stock crank will handle almost any NA build. and bore it to 81.5mm, don't sleeve it for an NA application. what cams, and compression ratio are you going with?
ok so keep GSR crank and get forged rods and pistons? i was thinking brian crowler any ideas on that? and w.e comp i can get using those cams and titanium valve springs and retainers and anyone suggest bigger valves maybe?
ya keep the GSR crank, get an Endyn block girdle, call Carillo and get rods and pistons, they'll do the trick. Supertech top end, then pick your cam. lots of options out there. and don't forget to post pics!
f'k supertech., the second set of those valves i've personally seen break just broke a week or so ago. ferrera or oem only. i've personally put a piston into a ferrera valve over 8000 and bent it all to ****, thing still never broke. anyway, how much power is this car going to be making anyway? stock rods are good past 300whp but it's not a bad idea to get a set of $300 manleys for the full floater pins if you go forged pistons. choosing compression is the hard part. if it's NA only you would set near 12:1 but that rules out a turbo down the road. 11:1 or just under gives you the ability to go either way.
so better option is ferrera valves? and im probebly not gunna turbo it id rather turbo my ls bc if it blows up i really dont care those parts arnt hard to come across or replace lol!
ok, so 1 person said f supetech, how many people have them and have no problems, not saying ferrera is bad, just saying that because you can't drive and forgot to shift causing a piston to hit a valve spring (through the head and everything i'm impressed) my point is check out your options for valve springs, there are more then 1 good set out there.
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raverx3m
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sad and yes stock valve train.


