CIVIC SOHC VTEC THROTTLE BODY INTAKE UPGRADE HELP
The MSD and other ignition components you have are likely a downgrade from the OEM components. And I imagine the exhaust you have is a 2.25" exhaust. You'll need a custom exhaust with 3" or larger piping.
I'm going to assume for now you have a stock d-series engine with some bolt ons. The engine you have is a very poor platform to start with.
You need to turbo it, which you can do safely up to 250whp or so. You'll need a good tune to keep the car reliable.
What are your goals for the car? Autocross? Occasional drag racing?
If you want people to take your performance queries seriously you should probably refrain from posting pictures of your car. It's very old in terms of "trend." And by about 10 years.
A lot of people, including myself, already think you've wasted a lot of money in cheap non-functional parts. I'm sure the wheels you have weigh a TON and really drag your car down. The 16" konigs I had before were about 18lbs and I changed to 16" 11lb volk CE28s I could immediately tell a difference driving the car. I'd be willing to be your wheels weigh over 25lbs.
You have a lot of cheap/fake aftermarket replicas of authentic parts that aren't painted. Most people think it looks tacky. The aftermarket headlights you have also probably function worse than the OEM ones and it's likely you've also got HIDs and are blinding most people on the road. But who knows.
Your car also appears to be stock height which means you bothered to spend over $1,000 making your car "look better" before you made it function better. It's kind of a weird way to approach the performance car scene. Really kind of backwards.
You didn't name the brand of shifter, which when looking at all the other parts on your car I can safely assume it's some cheap Ebay shifter you found and you couldn't see any reason so spend more than $30 on a piece of metal that helps you change gears. These tend to break and also can make shifting not much different than stock, but simply lower the shift ****. A good, reputable shifter will have a heavier ****, and a longer fulcrum on which the shifter linkage pivots.
I'm going to assume for now you have a stock d-series engine with some bolt ons. The engine you have is a very poor platform to start with.
You need to turbo it, which you can do safely up to 250whp or so. You'll need a good tune to keep the car reliable.
What are your goals for the car? Autocross? Occasional drag racing?
If you want people to take your performance queries seriously you should probably refrain from posting pictures of your car. It's very old in terms of "trend." And by about 10 years.
A lot of people, including myself, already think you've wasted a lot of money in cheap non-functional parts. I'm sure the wheels you have weigh a TON and really drag your car down. The 16" konigs I had before were about 18lbs and I changed to 16" 11lb volk CE28s I could immediately tell a difference driving the car. I'd be willing to be your wheels weigh over 25lbs.
You have a lot of cheap/fake aftermarket replicas of authentic parts that aren't painted. Most people think it looks tacky. The aftermarket headlights you have also probably function worse than the OEM ones and it's likely you've also got HIDs and are blinding most people on the road. But who knows.
Your car also appears to be stock height which means you bothered to spend over $1,000 making your car "look better" before you made it function better. It's kind of a weird way to approach the performance car scene. Really kind of backwards.
You didn't name the brand of shifter, which when looking at all the other parts on your car I can safely assume it's some cheap Ebay shifter you found and you couldn't see any reason so spend more than $30 on a piece of metal that helps you change gears. These tend to break and also can make shifting not much different than stock, but simply lower the shift ****. A good, reputable shifter will have a heavier ****, and a longer fulcrum on which the shifter linkage pivots.
See section #4 of the FAQ.
I'd have to agree that you've already wasted a lot of money on your parts choices so you did not meet your goal. You're not going to get even a modest increase in horsepower from any D-series engine without boosting it.
You could try and build it internally but that would not be cost effective at all and even then a small turbo build would provide more power.
Your next purchase should be in the suspension area and then a real exhaust system.
I'd have to agree that you've already wasted a lot of money on your parts choices so you did not meet your goal. You're not going to get even a modest increase in horsepower from any D-series engine without boosting it.
You could try and build it internally but that would not be cost effective at all and even then a small turbo build would provide more power.
Your next purchase should be in the suspension area and then a real exhaust system.
Last edited by grumblemarc; May 18, 2011 at 02:38 AM.
Why? We're here to help you. I wouldn't have spend 10 minutes typing that if I didn't mean it.
These types of posts aren't often greeted by warm welcomes because 6-10 years ago every 10 minutes someone just like yourself would post something the same. "I want my car to go fast and here's what I have"
It gets old. Going fast is pretty simple.
A) D-series are a waste of time unless you want to turbo. Do not bother buying bolt ons for them.
B) Regardless, turbo is the cheapest way to go fast. Period.
C) Stock b-series aren't much faster than d-series when it comes to drag racing but they do have a lot more potential from bolt ons. Generally cams/valve train will be the most bang/buck upgrade on these engines. A solid replica header from kiddracing or privatelabel MFG will do a lot for it with a 3" exhaust.
D) What were you looking for?
These types of posts aren't often greeted by warm welcomes because 6-10 years ago every 10 minutes someone just like yourself would post something the same. "I want my car to go fast and here's what I have"
It gets old. Going fast is pretty simple.
A) D-series are a waste of time unless you want to turbo. Do not bother buying bolt ons for them.
B) Regardless, turbo is the cheapest way to go fast. Period.
C) Stock b-series aren't much faster than d-series when it comes to drag racing but they do have a lot more potential from bolt ons. Generally cams/valve train will be the most bang/buck upgrade on these engines. A solid replica header from kiddracing or privatelabel MFG will do a lot for it with a 3" exhaust.
D) What were you looking for?
I think he's mad because you insulted his style.
http://img545.imageshack.us/slidesho...d=noplate2.jpg
http://img545.imageshack.us/slidesho...d=noplate2.jpg
The first pic cracked me up.
If he thought this was negative he should check out the appearance forum.
What did you expect? People to spoon feed you info?
Would you rather we told you to spend $200 on a 70mm throttle body? A mod that will do nothing except increase throttle response.
I don't even know what kind of engine you have, and on a stock d-series any money invested in bolt ons is a waste in many peoples opinions. I'm honestly trying to help you by being constructive.
If he thought this was negative he should check out the appearance forum.
What did you expect? People to spoon feed you info?
Would you rather we told you to spend $200 on a 70mm throttle body? A mod that will do nothing except increase throttle response.
I don't even know what kind of engine you have, and on a stock d-series any money invested in bolt ons is a waste in many peoples opinions. I'm honestly trying to help you by being constructive.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ley
Honda Civic (2001 - 2005)
10
Jan 24, 2007 07:40 PM
jdmciviccrx
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
6
Feb 20, 2006 07:53 AM
jt-sport
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
Oct 14, 2002 07:37 AM
RSXrunsit
Tech / Misc
1
Aug 25, 2002 06:48 PM




