haha

sooooo after doing my tuck. abs delete. yada yada go to plug everything up and everythings cool but a couple of weird bugs. turn signals wont work, not one parking light works but my passenger sidemarker (JDM FRONT) my cluster doesnt illuminate, my apexi vafc donsnt come on. and whenever i hit my flashers my fuse blows in the under hood fuse box.

i was thinking maybe all were connected somehow. so i know the parking lights and flashers run on the same circuit, and im assuming the gauge cluster does to...... but why wouldnt my apexi still work right....

also my high beams and low beams work along with my fogs. but my city lights dont.

some help of were to start to test would be good...plz

 

Who did the tuck? Get out a DMM and fix it.. hope the tuck was worth the effort...

 

I agree - grab your volt-ohm meter and get to work.

Trace the wires - it sounds like you've got a short somewhere.

The best means for finding something like this is to start at one 'end' and work your way to the other; as opposed to the 'shotgun' approach of looking here and there with no plan.

Helps to have a wiring diagram, but if you don't.. perhaps someone that has one can give you a few hints on the path to take.

Until then, use your eyes and follow the path the wires now take - somewhere you turn a corner and possibly the wire's being cut by a sharp metal edge.. Did you splice anything? Look there and double-check your work.

You'll find it..

 

Download or buy the Helms manual. There are wiring diagrams that would EASILY lead you to the problem area.

 

bust out the dvom and get to testing... Check your grounds

 

yes i have access to a DMM and onDemand. i have been looking over schematics for the past hour or so and have maybe narowed this down to a couple possibilitys. Bad Ground at the turn signal/ Hazard relay or maybe a problem with the Combination light switch. do you guys think any of those would affect the gauge cluster and apex vafc.

i did the tuck myself and didnt cut or splice anything exept for removing wires such as all abs wires and srs wires

 

MM&Y of car would help.

I know of no Honda/Acura that the park lights and the hazard lights are on the same circuit.

Hazard lights and signal lights are on the same circuit after the hazard switch but fused separately, that hazards are on a hot at all times circuit and the signals are on a switched, [ign.] circuit.

Front side markers on most Honda/Acura are controled by the ICU. 94

 

fcm thank you. its a 94 gsr... well im popping fuse 43 hazard (hot at all times).... on the schematic im reading it looks as if its switched at the hazard warning switch then runs into the turn signal/ hazard relay. the relay is grounded(left kick panel) then runs into my combination light switch?

would my hazard and turns signal problem also contribute to the cluster and apexi not coming on.

 

heres a little update... last night i was looking for loose grounds and other things and i had my headlihgts on while testing, and my passenger side started to flicker so i turned it off and kinda quit wokin on it last night. so this morning i was doing a little work and turned my headlights on my passenger wont even turn on now and my driver side just started to flicker.

i also checked continuity on all my grounds for the parking lights/ turn signals and they are good.... also check power at the lights and they all read like 10.8 or around there

i cant really turn my key to second notch because my fuel line has a leak right at my fuel rail so it just lets the fuel pump run because its leaking

 

Pull the ECM fuse, should stop the pump on older years IIRC.

 

Check your batt. to chassis ground, [under batt. "box"] and chassis to engine ground.

Do not just eyeball them, and do not use a meter, a meter has no load so even if the ground is poor and it can carry a .25A load the meter will indicate good continuity.

Remove the ground connections and clean both contact surfaces and reconnect.
I recommend that for any of the grounds.

Pull fuse 24- 15A (20A on a GS-R) It is located in the SRS fuse box, it will shut down the PGM-FI Main Relay. 94

 

i relocated my battery to the trunk.... but will check ground there. Will check engine ground on the front of the car.... were is the srs fuse box located? i took all the srs components out along with ALL the abs parts. only fuse boxes i have are the under hood(witch has been relocated to under right side dash) and the left under dash one.....

 

Where is the batt. pos.(+) cable connected in the engine bay?

How and where is the batt. grounded in the trunk?

What gauge is the power and ground cable from the batt.?

What type and size of fuse are you using on the batt. power cable?

The SRS fuse block is part of the under dash, [left] fuse box, [upper right side of fuse box] there are two fuses in it, the SRS fuse, [fuse 1] and the ACG (IG) fuse, [fuse 2] it is fuse 2 that the Haynes manual is calling fuse 24, [fuse location 24 is a spare fuse holder] it is fuse 2 you need to pull, just tried it on my 94 and fuel pump does not run. 94

 

my ground wire is 0 gauge its grounded in the right rear of the trunk through a pre drilled hole" (that cable is maybe 10")
my power wire is 0 gauge then splits into 4 gauge... one runs to my underhood fuse box, the other to starter. its also has a 100AMP ANL fuse

tomorrow i will pull fuse 24 and get to the ignition to check more into my turn signals

my engine ground is your stock wire on the front...

 

0 gage is a little over-kill but it can't hurt.

I would connect it, [0ga] directly to the starter, [loose the 4ga and splitter block] and run an 8ga from the starter to the under hood fuse box, 8ga is more then thick enough for the fuse box, there is no advantage to anything thicker.

The 100A ANL is fine as long as it is as close to batt. as possible

With a 100A fuse the 0ga is really over-kill as a 0ga has a 350A current capacity

If I was to change anything I would replace the 0ga with 4ga and install a 150A ANL, run it to the starter and run an 8ga from the starter to the under hood fuse box, it will be more then enough and cut some of the bulk of the 0ga and eliminate the connections of the 0ga to 4ga splitter block. 94

 

do i have it connected wrong?
you say to run the power wire directly to the started... also connect a wire there and run it to the fuse box?

i have it set up now that it goes from the bat. to the splitter... one goes to the starter and one goes to the under hood fuse box? the two white wires located on the vary left side (but the one to the right wire)

or would that just be the same thing just wiring it a different way? because your still getting constant power... i will try to take pics this sat or sun.

 

I would defiantly check your ground I know so many people who have problems with 0 g

 

It is not wrong, it is just not a good way to do it, as it adds a lot of connections, the more connections the more places things can go wrong.

Connections also add resistance, the more connections the more resistance.


Use the batt. cable stud on the starter motor as a "junction" and run an 8ga from it to the fuse box, [daisy chaining]. 94

 

just a little update...

havent found the source of the problem yet.... i pulled out the ACG (IG) fuse to disable my fuel pump. and my left(driverside) turn signals work.... bit dash dims with turn signals.... also my right side wont work at all and the relay makes almost a screeching sound, and no turn signals... i still dont have parking lights but havent replace the bulbs yet. i cleaned and checked my lights grounds and my engine ground. i havent done anything with the bat yet.

also i noticed that i think my battery might be going out. even when i turn my ignition to on (II) it drops voltage from like 11.7 to 9