ok first off this is my first build and im only 17 so this car is going to be my daily driver and i want it to be done right the first time. my car is a 95 integra ls with 142,xxx miles on it im going to be on a $5000 budget give or take a little. my goal is to hit 275-300whp and be reliable on stock block.

my setup:
-t3/t04e garrett turbo 57trim .48a/r = $595
-t3/t04e oil feed an retrun kit = $120
-spoolinpreformance log manifold package: = $575
304l stainless log manifold
2.5" mild steel marbel bent down pipe
02 sensor bung
1.5" dumptube open atmosphere
high quality flex pipe
all nuts and bolts
-tail 38mm wastegate = $225
-tail bov = 240
-arp headstud kit b18a/b = $180

all the above is from spoolinperformance.com^

-Go-Autoworks medium intercooler 350-400hp 28"x7"x2.5" = $150
-Go-Autoworks DC2 race charge pipes w/ t-bolts an couplers = $265

from Go-Autoworks.com^

-percision turbo 525cc injectors = $294 xenocron.com
-hondata s300 = $521 horsepowerfreaks.com (i like the safety features)
-skunk2 intake manifold = $290 ebay.com
-255 walbro fuel pump = $105 amazon.com
-apexi n1 muffler turbo = $233 amazon.com
-motorola 2.5map bar sensor = $35 phearable.net
-3" exhuast from end of downpipe to muffler by local muffler shop = $175

-autometer colbalt egt guage = $167
-autometer colbalt oil pressure guage = $72
-autometer colbalt boost guage = $72
-autometer 5in colbalt tach w/shift light = $252 (if i have the money)

all guages from streetsideauto.com an free shipping^

-dyno time and tunning estimated = $700

TOTAL: $5,266 shipped

MY QUESTIONS: Do i have to many miles on my motor 142,xxx? Is this a good setup to reach my goal? Am i over spending on anything? Do i have all the guages i need? Do i need a resistor for those injectors?

i know none of you will go to all these websites and check this stuff out but at least let me know if all the websites are legit companys.

THANKS to all who give me advice

 

get a good tune.
dont go over 10 pounds
and if the injectors are peak and hold than yes if theyre saturated then no.
and thats a grip of money if you ask me.
with 6 -7 grand you can drop a k20 in your ride and a paint job lol

 

You can slim that budget down by almost a grand. Buy some stuff used and not so name brand. A Cx racing intercooler will work fine and also sre charge pipes. Both can be had on ebay. You can do a blox manifold for $200 and have spoolin make you a 3" dp for like 260. Injectors don't have to be bought brand new or even a wastegate. Arp studs can be bought for 130 shipped. Do a blox manifold instead of skunk 2. Nothing wrong with used parts and buying cheaper on the stuff that's not super important to make 300whp like intercooler and charge pipes. You can run neptune rtp and save money. Make sure your shop tunes it though. Some won't mess with it.

 

Good tune YES
Don't exceed 10psi = BULLSHIT. Psi means nothing from turbo to turbo. Your tuner knows what to do.
3rd part correct
4th part some people don't like Na. Boost is better anyways.

 

ok. well let me rephrase myself. I WOULDNT GO PASSED 10

and im just saying thats a large amount of money

 

Psi means nothing though. You need to realize that part. A greddy 18g @ 10psi vs a sc61 @ 10psi is nowhere near the same amount of power. 270-300whp is the point where most tuners feel comfortable at on a stock ls motor. Depending on turbo they will run whatever psi is needed to reach that goal. I've been on 14psi for over a year beating the guts out of it and reving to 7,500. Stock from top to bottom minus Arp head studs.
Yes it is a lot of money but he can also slim it down a bunch. I have 3,500 from stock to boosted and tuned. That includes stuff he never mention such as a good clutch and 3" exhaust. Only thing not name brand is the front mount. Just look for good deals on parts.

 

order that turbo in the .63AR

if you're shooting for 300whp you'll be glad you did

you can get it two ways, either the actual garrett or a precision 3431e

on average a dyno and tune is $350-400 so you're shooting high on that one

 

i no psi dont mean nothing i will push what ever psi is needed to reach my goal and be reliable. i no it a lot of money and i will be buying used parts but there is no use of looking for used parts unill i start my job in June when scools out and i can come into $$$. and i thank you for giving me this good advice but i did put down a 3" exhaust is going to be done by a friend at a local muffler shop and i already have a aftermarket clutch that was installed when i bought the car and im not replaceing it til it goes.

 

The post wasn't directed towards you OP. It was to the guy telling you not to go over 10psi.

 

i no that i was jus stating that so people no that i dont listen to that bull crap i may be seven teen an i havent even road in a turbo'd car or built one but i have done my research i just had some question that needed to be answered.

i have another one to if this turbo thing dont work out and i cant gtt all the money i need to do it should I:

A) build my b18b for all motor (no LS/Vtec to complicated for me and unreliable if done wrong i dont have the money to fix the problems)

B) do a gsr swap from hmotorsonline.com for $2900 then use the rest of the money to build it for N/A

C) save my money i earn an sell my car and buy a nice turbo'd or N/A civic or integra

those are my back up plans if i cant afford to get the setup i want for turbo. i already have parts list made out for both gsr N/A and B18B N/A. so i would apprciate any responses

THANKS

 

I have a Ls turbo that i put in a 2000 civic si. I run 10psi and spent under $3,500 on all my stuff. granted I haven't had it tuned yet by a professional just street tuned and it rips. Getting it tuned next month...and i don't drive it much.lol I will let you know how much Hp i get once tuned but under $4000 on the build and I built the engine up. You should reach 300 hp fo sho.

 

You're spending a little bit more than expected, but on a stock LS block with 140k+ miles on it I wouldn't trust the rods. #s your aiming for is manageable, a good tune of course will keep the motor reliable as you asked for, but I wouldn't trust LS rods. They're the weakest link

 

A. is a waste of money IMO. You're not going to get great numbers na out of an ls. The head flows like poop. Ls vtec is not hard to do and yeilds good gains.

B. For the 2,900 you're spending you can turbo your ls and make more power and it will be more fun. Na power isn't cheap at all.

C. Why even bother saving money for A or B if your thinking of this?


The Ls rod bolts are the weakest link, not the rods themselves. They are the same size as D series rod bolts. As opposed to gsr/b16/itr rod bolts which are bigger. You still don't need to worry about it. There are 1000's of people with stock boosted Ls motors that hold up just fine. A good tune and not trying to rev out past 7 is all you need. **** does happen though but you need to be prepared for that. Boost or na.

 

ive looked and looked and i cant seem to put together a turbo kit for 2900 so i dout thats possible. and i am not counting out plan B but A,C are out. my main goal is to turbo and i am going to do my best to do it but theres other things to worry bout on my car that needs to be looked at before i can start buy parts for turbo:

1.my check engine light is on im pertty sure its the distributor because i have a 95 teg and its off a 97 teg and a 97 being obd2 and a 95 teg being a obd1 i think that could be the cause of the engine light and when idleing the car idles from like 700rpm to 1000rpm up and down constantly. but i could be throwing other codes as well idk

2.my friend says i have a bad valve because every time i floor second an he behind me he says there alot of smoke coming out the exhaust pipe and sometimes it shoots out black stuf and theres black soot on my muffler tip. and i burn about a half a quart of oil a month i dont no the cause but i think its running rich but idk he says different. but the engine seems to run fine pulls hard and everything. thats my main concern because if somethng is wrong with my engine im prob gonna go gsr all motor. advice on this will be helpful

3.paint. the dude before me spray painted it flat black and it looks like a ricer not a total ricer but close enough to be called one. thats gonna be taking care of for sure and idk no how much this is going to cost me but im going with a black off a scion tc maybe it will be cheap sense its an ome color.

any help on my first two concerns is apprciated i no the third is up to me

 

correction you can get a good turbo kit for 2900 i did:

-t3/t04e garrett turbo 57trim .63a/r = $595
-t3/t04e oil feed an retrun kit = $120
-spoolinpreformance log manifold package: = $575
304l stainless log manifold
2.5" mild steel marbel bent down pipe
02 sensor bung
1.5" dumptube open atmosphere
high quality flex pipe
all nuts and bolts
-tail 38mm wastegate = $225
-tail bov = 240
-Go-Autoworks medium intercooler 350-400hp 28"x7"x2.5" = $150
-Go-Autoworks DC2 race charge pipes w/ t-bolts an couplers = $265

total:$2,170

i think thats decent for all new parts but when you add in injestors, tunning software plus the tune itself, all guages needed, arp headstuds, fuel pump, exhaust, and intake manifold thats where all the prices go up so SC34DC4 i do respect you opinions and wat you have to say and im not saying your wrong but I seriously dout i can turbo my car for 2900

READ POST ABOVE AND GIVE ADVICE ON MY FIRST TWO SET BACKS BEFORE I GO OFF AND SPEND MONEY ON TURBO

THANKS TO ALL

 

if i was in your shoes...i would do this.

buy another LS block buy rods and pistons bout 750ish from venders on here and maching work and assembly shouldnt be more then 400 depends on area. 1150-1200

then you can find a bunch of used parts on here.

i would also just buy this
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gotutusy1.html

all new everytthing you need and its going to fit with no moding...also greg is a great guy to deal with

 

1. An obd2 distributor will not even plug into an obd1 car so I don't think you have that part right. Your tps could need adjusted. You might just have to bump up the idle screw just a bit. Idle air control valve might need cleaned. I'm about 1,000% it's not your dizzy.

2. Yes either valve seals or piston rings.

3. Good quality paint and body work isn't cheap. I paid 2,500 for a paint job.

To me I think you have a lot of things confused. You should figure out what you want to do before you attack this. Priorities


You keep saying new parts. Buy used items to save money. Doesn't mean they are junk.
I sold my manifold down pipe and dumptube for $400 to a friend when I upgraded over the winter. You can get a good used turbo for $400. A tial wg for 175. By your parts list that's 1,595 but on my list it's 975. 600 difference

 

^^^what hes saying you can say alot

i bought all my turbo parts used
top mount mani was 550
Sc34 was 100 needed a rebuild which was another 100
44mm WG i got for 300
Greddy BOV was 75
IC pipes and IC i paid 150
built my own DP for 65 bucks (flange and pipes)
oil lines were 90

you need to hunt for deals they are out there i have seen a few in the last few days in the Forced Induction FS section

 

The first thing I'd do is get your motor situation figured out. Either pick up a healthy swap or take care of your suffering ls motor. Secondly then you have to decide if you want it to be fast or look good. Once you make that choice then go from there.

 

you left off

ecu $100
tune $350
wideband $175
boost gauge $150
clamps and couplers $50+

that's another $800+

add in $600 more for an exedy stage 2 and flywheel

quality used items don't really come up that often. sometimes you can buy kits or pieces if you make compromises or sometimes you get lucky like the $100 sc34. i looked in the marketplace and on ebay for awhile before i started buying turbo parts. didn't see much i wanted come up often. did miss one sweet deal on an edelbrock intercooler for $120 though

 

i have all ready added that stuff up and have it listed at the top of the first post besides a clutch because i all ready have one and i no its gonna be hard finding the parts i need used put we will see i dont even no if my motor is going to allow me to go turbo because of the burnning smell coming from the engine evey time i drive it and im burnning oil black stuff shoots out my muffler everytime i rev up or get on the gas my friend thinks my valves are bad but idk any advice on that wud be great. im going to have a compression and leakdown test monday for $75
and have my check engine light looked at for another $25 does those prices sound right?

 

I've already answered those questions.
Don't turbo a dying motor. Fix it or get a healthy one first.
Your valves seals probably need replaced, not your valves. Or it could be the oil control rings on your pistons. Which will not show up during a compression test. You can purchase a compression tester yourself and do both of those tests. Probably have $30 in parts. If your integra is obd-1 then why not check the codes yourself? And to finally add. I think you have a lot to learn about cars. Maybe you should take just take about 4 steps back and re think this.

 

i was doing some research last night about doing a compresion and leakdown test and its pertty easy the only thing that gets me is the TDC on the cam gear stil a bit confused on how to do that. but im gonna call autozone today and get a price on that an prob run up there and get one. i took it to advance auto parts and they check codes for free but they said they cnt do obd1 cars only obd2 so they sent me to a shop and they quoted me 25.

 

oh and how do i check the codes myself didnt no i could

 

when you do a compression test unplug the distributor and it doesn't hurt to unplug the injectors or pull the fuel pump fuse

make sure the car is warm and you hold the throttle open. crank the car over long enough for the gauge to build pressure. ususally 3 cycles or so is enough