Ok so i made a thread when i got a brand new ITR trans that it was grinding the first test run! and it continued and got worse, I had a cc stg 4 6 puck disc, i came to the colclusion it was the clutch. I had replaced the cm cylinder and clutch slave and clutch line to a ss unit and it still grinded. So fustrated i took it off and found the disc to be damaged so i also sold the trans and baught another brand new one. This time i used a new exedy stg 1 clutch and flywheel. Install went easy and i know i instaled it correctly i do all the work on my car as well as put it together from the ground up! motor and all!
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The thing that is wierd is that this one feels allot more better shifting and it still shifts like butter sometimes and sometimes it grinds!, but i still have the same grinding issue! and first gear is hard to get into sometimes and second grinds more often and also third is a bit notchy. 4th and 5th usually never grind. It pisses me off cause sometimes it shifts like butter like it should but sometimes it wont! whats wrong?? I noticed when its hot outside and or the engine has been run for a while and is hot or i just did a few spirited runs and the engine is pretty hot the trans shifts right and doesnt grind usually so i noticed when it gets hot it gets better so whats going on? Im gonna replace the clutch slave and mc again and see if it gets better but im not sure if it will, i bled the clutch a few times before i swaped it for the new unit but im stumped now. I took it to a shop for a clutch pedal hieght adjustment and inspection, but they were real shady they tested it and said it was shifting fine and that the clutch pedal didnt need any adjustment and that it was engaging at the right point, they wanted me to leave my car there for a weak and he said he will keep it at his house ect. i was like what? thats to sketchy so i didnt leave it.

 

I will ask a few questiions and hopefully learn something. Does it take a while for a new transmission to break in, or is a little wear required for everything to mesh? How many miles do you have now? I had a clutch put in by a reputable shop and had grinding and difficulty in first. Eventually the clutch had to come out. I sent it back to Exedy, and they said damaged in install and sent it back to me. I found the described micro burrs in the splines which caused it to hang slightly. It had been damaged. Got a new one and then normal. Went through MC, etc trying to fix first. Many transmissions are notchy unless run warm, but grind does not seem normal.

 

What fluid?

It's either the clutch system, linkage/shifter assembly, or driver.

 

I had honda mtf in my last brand new ITR trans and used it for a little while with my new one i got but i recently used some gm syncromesh when i replaced my axle just cause i had some and was curious.
Its not me cause im not a idiot besides iv had many trans. and none of my gsr trans or the m factory trans i had grinded so why these itr trans.?

Im acually starting to think maybe its the shift linkage assembly but how could that go bad and cause it? I have energy mount inserts for the trans shifter and it still does nothing.

 

Switch to a real fluid like Torco. Honda MTF is too thin as is Synchromesh.

What shape are the shifter bushings in (on the shifter) and how much play is in the shift linkage joint(s)? What chassis?

 

well i just installed energy shifter bushings a few months back.


I dont know how much play is in the linkage joint! is that the joint where the pin or (bitch pin) goes in to hold the push rod in the trans?

1998 gsr

 

As far as i know you dont need to break in a new trans.
The new trans and clutch has around 7-800 miles acually just barely done breaking it in.
how did they cause it to get micro burns in the splines? isnt the alighnment tool for that reason?
i never had any of my gsr trans grind like this even on a cold *** morning so theres a issue i cant figure out! it has to be either the clutch master or slave or my linkage! is there any bushings below on the shifter? like if i remove the shift boot and center console is there a bushing that can go bad and cause me to not shift correct cause im not sure i never looked in that area of this vehicle before. Would a short shifter help me in this situation?, i heard that short shifters are not good on the syncros in the long run so i never ventured into using one but now i am starting to think about it.

 

have you tried bleeding the fluid again on the clutch mc and sc?

 

A short shifter will most likely make you shifting problems stand out even more. It might be worth getting new linkage(the non replaceable bushings wear over time making for a sloppy shifter) If you end up getting new linkage from the dealer, might as well get the type r stuff, after my POS hasport linkage (crx w/gsr swap) wore out in like a year, i ordered new itr shift rod and had it shortend to fit, sooooooo much better!!

 

thanks any pics of that non replaceable bushings?

 

Did you ever check the clutch pedal freeplay and disengagement height?

 

No not really! i dont know how too! i took it to a shop that does import cars all day but they said it was disengaging right and he showed me by letting go of the clutch untill the car started to move forward and it was right around mid way and he said any more and it might slip so im confused but they wanted me to leave the car for a weak and i thought that was shady! he said ill even keep it in my garrage at home lol what a con artist! i didnt trust them!! they kept telling me how nice it was and i was uncomfortable. why would you take a customers car home when theres a huge shop to leave it at!
Is there any difference with the itr shift linkage and the gsr?
I think i might need a new shift linkage like mentioned, it is the original gsr one that has over 200,000 miles on it..

im gonna save up and get a new cm and slave and new shift linkage and bleed the line again and see where im at i guess.

 

You might want to find another shop.

ITR is gold colored and made a little heavier, but they're 100% interchangeable.

Linkages don't exactly wear out, the bushings do, but not the linkage, the only thing that may be wrong with the linkage itself is it may be bent.

I'd check that disengagment height and freeplay first personally. It's in the factory service manual, actually I think it's even in the chilton and haynes manuals you can buy for $20 at your local parts store.