Need new suspension - so lost
So, here's the situation that I've found myself in -
I've got a 1991 CRX Si that I've loved for the past 5 years on the current suspension but I think it's time for a change. I'm moving out of my quiet suburb area to a more crowded area where the roads are not well maintained at all and driving on it will literally break my car (and my back) if I do it for too long.
Currently it's lowered on Skunk 2 adjustable coils and Tokico Blue shocks, this really isn't going to cut it anymore and it's probably caused a lot of irreversible (Or extremely expensive) damage already. So I ask you guys - what would be a good set to switch to? I'm trying to look for something that won't break my spine if I hit a moderate sized pot hole and I'm also trying to find something that will allow me to keep it a little bit lowered (Stock ride hight with the current rims would be a big no-no)
Also, when changing out the suspension, is there anything else that I should replace while I've got it apart? A list would be perfect, but some pointers would be just as awesome.
I've got a 1991 CRX Si that I've loved for the past 5 years on the current suspension but I think it's time for a change. I'm moving out of my quiet suburb area to a more crowded area where the roads are not well maintained at all and driving on it will literally break my car (and my back) if I do it for too long.
Currently it's lowered on Skunk 2 adjustable coils and Tokico Blue shocks, this really isn't going to cut it anymore and it's probably caused a lot of irreversible (Or extremely expensive) damage already. So I ask you guys - what would be a good set to switch to? I'm trying to look for something that won't break my spine if I hit a moderate sized pot hole and I'm also trying to find something that will allow me to keep it a little bit lowered (Stock ride hight with the current rims would be a big no-no)
Also, when changing out the suspension, is there anything else that I should replace while I've got it apart? A list would be perfect, but some pointers would be just as awesome.
It all comes down to what balance you want between comfort and performance.
Spring Rate
Do you like the spring rate of the Springs you have now?
You could order softer coils from Ground Control.
Or go to a more "street-oriented" Progressive spring such as H&R Sport or Tein.
Shocks
Tokico Blues and KYB GR-2 are stock replacement shocks.
If you use a better shock, you can have the ability to adjust settings to fine tune the ride you want.
At least Tokico Illuminas (5-way) or Koni Yellows (if you got the money)
Spring Rate
Do you like the spring rate of the Springs you have now?
You could order softer coils from Ground Control.
Or go to a more "street-oriented" Progressive spring such as H&R Sport or Tein.
Shocks
Tokico Blues and KYB GR-2 are stock replacement shocks.
If you use a better shock, you can have the ability to adjust settings to fine tune the ride you want.
At least Tokico Illuminas (5-way) or Koni Yellows (if you got the money)
It all comes down to what balance you want between comfort and performance.
Spring Rate
Do you like the spring rate of the Springs you have now?
You could order softer coils from Ground Control.
Or go to a more "street-oriented" Progressive spring such as H&R Sport or Tein.
Shocks
Tokico Blues and KYB GR-2 are stock replacement shocks.
If you use a better shock, you can have the ability to adjust settings to fine tune the ride you want.
At least Tokico Illuminas (5-way) or Koni Yellows (if you got the money)
Spring Rate
Do you like the spring rate of the Springs you have now?
You could order softer coils from Ground Control.
Or go to a more "street-oriented" Progressive spring such as H&R Sport or Tein.
Shocks
Tokico Blues and KYB GR-2 are stock replacement shocks.
If you use a better shock, you can have the ability to adjust settings to fine tune the ride you want.
At least Tokico Illuminas (5-way) or Koni Yellows (if you got the money)
Any real big difference between the Koni's and the Tokico? There's only a $100 difference on Modacar, is it worth the extra hundred to spring (Or should I say, shock?) for the next level up?
koni yellows are $456 shipped with lifetime warranty here:
www.ltbautosports.com
www.ltbautosports.com
when you hit a bump, the spring rate of the spring will determine how much the spring compresses. Stiffer springs translates into a "harsher ride" but you will not bottom out as easily. Stiffer springs help control body roll as well translating into better performance.
The Shocks job is to control the spring's bounce both on compression and rebound, smoothing out any unwanted bounce - during and after the fact.
The stock replacement shocks were not designed to be able to control a spring that is rated as high as the S2 coilovers are rated at. This is why it is bouncy. It could also be that depending on how low you are, there is little suspension travel available, so you are experiencing bouncyness because you are riding on the bump stops?
It is not the best explanation but it's a start.
FWIW I think you should get some better shocks and ride it. Then decide if you want softer spring rates.
The Shocks job is to control the spring's bounce both on compression and rebound, smoothing out any unwanted bounce - during and after the fact.
The stock replacement shocks were not designed to be able to control a spring that is rated as high as the S2 coilovers are rated at. This is why it is bouncy. It could also be that depending on how low you are, there is little suspension travel available, so you are experiencing bouncyness because you are riding on the bump stops?
It is not the best explanation but it's a start.
FWIW I think you should get some better shocks and ride it. Then decide if you want softer spring rates.
Lowered on Tokico blues was your first mistake. Not proper travel.
Sk2 springs were the bigger issue though.
gringo7718 did a good job explaining the basics.
You need to match your shock to the spring. The valving inside the shock is set to operate within specific spring rates. You should match the two - if you don't then the ride will be horrible.
You figure out what spring rate you need. This isn't just something you pick off the shelf if you want to do it right. There are variables for choosing the proper rate that consider the weight of the car, the purpose (drag, road race, street,...), etc.
Shocks should be purchased that are matched to this rate and then fine tuned (if adjustable) to your preferences. Just getting an adjustable shock and hoping it will solve the problem is not especially smart. Majority of adjustable shocks are only rebound adjustable. Even if you could get the rebound to work properly with your spring rate, shocks operate on compression and rebound you wouldn't be doing it right just by adjusting one of them.
Sk2 springs were the bigger issue though.
gringo7718 did a good job explaining the basics.
You need to match your shock to the spring. The valving inside the shock is set to operate within specific spring rates. You should match the two - if you don't then the ride will be horrible.
You figure out what spring rate you need. This isn't just something you pick off the shelf if you want to do it right. There are variables for choosing the proper rate that consider the weight of the car, the purpose (drag, road race, street,...), etc.
Shocks should be purchased that are matched to this rate and then fine tuned (if adjustable) to your preferences. Just getting an adjustable shock and hoping it will solve the problem is not especially smart. Majority of adjustable shocks are only rebound adjustable. Even if you could get the rebound to work properly with your spring rate, shocks operate on compression and rebound you wouldn't be doing it right just by adjusting one of them.
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Lowered on Tokico blues was your first mistake. Not proper travel.
Sk2 springs were the bigger issue though.
gringo7718 did a good job explaining the basics.
You need to match your shock to the spring. The valving inside the shock is set to operate within specific spring rates. You should match the two - if you don't then the ride will be horrible.
You figure out what spring rate you need. This isn't just something you pick off the shelf if you want to do it right. There are variables for choosing the proper rate that consider the weight of the car, the purpose (drag, road race, street,...), etc.
Shocks should be purchased that are matched to this rate and then fine tuned (if adjustable) to your preferences. Just getting an adjustable shock and hoping it will solve the problem is not especially smart. Majority of adjustable shocks are only rebound adjustable. Even if you could get the rebound to work properly with your spring rate, shocks operate on compression and rebound you wouldn't be doing it right just by adjusting one of them.
Sk2 springs were the bigger issue though.
gringo7718 did a good job explaining the basics.
You need to match your shock to the spring. The valving inside the shock is set to operate within specific spring rates. You should match the two - if you don't then the ride will be horrible.
You figure out what spring rate you need. This isn't just something you pick off the shelf if you want to do it right. There are variables for choosing the proper rate that consider the weight of the car, the purpose (drag, road race, street,...), etc.
Shocks should be purchased that are matched to this rate and then fine tuned (if adjustable) to your preferences. Just getting an adjustable shock and hoping it will solve the problem is not especially smart. Majority of adjustable shocks are only rebound adjustable. Even if you could get the rebound to work properly with your spring rate, shocks operate on compression and rebound you wouldn't be doing it right just by adjusting one of them.
Guess I'll get to doing my homework then - but I guess the general consensus for a sport type setup that won't break my back/car would be Ground control springs and Koni Yellows?
Koni/GC are an excellent choice. Still are definitely in the "performance category" but GC offers many different spring rates so you can get exactly what you want.
In general, most coilovers such as GC and S2 have linear rate springs. Linear springs are supposed to be much "harsher" than progressive springs, which are softer at first, but get stiffer as they get compressed. (For reference: Stock springs and most "street" springs are progressive)
In general, most coilovers such as GC and S2 have linear rate springs. Linear springs are supposed to be much "harsher" than progressive springs, which are softer at first, but get stiffer as they get compressed. (For reference: Stock springs and most "street" springs are progressive)
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