H-T FAQ is so out of date I decided to pillage some other sites info and consolidate it in one place. Most of this info is widely available on the web but here it is.

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f5/b...-codes-218900/
http://hondaswap.com/reference-mater...n-specs-29132/
http://www.jspecautosports.com/files...chcenter1a.htm
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=13024

How to Identify B-Series Transmission



How To Tell If Your Tranny Has LSD


LSD Stamp and Transmission ID Sticker


Clutch Selection
88-91 JDM Cable Transmissions (S1/J1/Y1) use 90-91 Integra Clutch. The input Shaft has 24 teeth.
Newer Cable/Hydro Transmissions will use 92-93 Integra Clutch

(Exedy Stage 1 for J1 Transmission - 24 teeth)



Axle Compatability
Ultimately, it doesn't matter what B-series engine or transmission you have installed in your car, the axle fitment comes down to the intermediate shaft that you have. For the transmission side of the car, any 1990-2001 Integra non-ABS axle will fit. If you have ABS axles you'll just need to remove the ABS ring, knock it off with a chisel and a hammer. The driver's side is where it gets tricky.


If you have a 1st gen (OBD-0) B16A swap that came with a Y1 transmission, you very likely have a Y1/SH3 intermediate shaft. Or, if you have discovered that 1990-1993 Integra axles don't fit or bind on the driver's side, you probably have a Y1/SH3 intermediate shaft. In this case, you have a couple options for a new driver's side axle.

Ok, now with that out of the way, there are only two other varieties of intermediate shaft. The most common is the 1990-1993 Integra, in which case you simply use 90-93 Integra axles. If your swap has a cable transmission other than a Y1 (S1, A1, J1, YS1) then you probably have one of these.

The other variety is the 94+ Integra intermediate shaft, which is very easy to spot because it has a male end on the driver's side, and requires a female inboard CV joint. If you bought a swap which came with a hydraulic transmission you most likely have one of these. In this case, 1994-2001 Integra axles will work.


If your swap was pieced together, or if you are unable to determine which intermediate shaft is in your car, here's how you can tell:

The SiR (Y1) intermediate shaft is on top, the 90-93 Integra intermediate shaft is on the bottom.



The Y1/SiR intermediate shaft is stamped "SH3" above the female end, and the 90-93 Integra mid-shaft is stamped "SK7" in the same spot. It's hard to see in this picture, but this one says SH3.


You can break out the measuring tape too, this is an SH3. An SK7 shaft is about 5/8" shorter.



A note for HF cars: If you are doing a B-series swap into a CRX HF, you will need to upgrade your knuckles. It's a good idea not just for the brake upgrade, but because the HF hubs simply won't accept the larger B-series axles. Knuckles from a CRX Si, 90/91 Civic Ex or 90-93 Integra are all solid choices.

If you are having trouble seating the axles into the hubs when using CRX Dx or Si knuckles, first make sure there is no ABS ring on the axle, and then remove the dust shield from the inside of the hub. It pops off with a screwdriver.



Transmission Gearing Ratios




B-Series Transmission Guide

By: Chet Hewitt

B-series Transmissions

In response to recent questions about different transmissions I think its important to shed some light into the ones available for our b-series motors. There are many differences between B-series transmissions and I've never found an article describing the positives and negatives of each unit. Below, you'll see transmission codes, the car it's found in, and whether or not it has factory LSD. It's important to realize that Honda didn't make it easy for us to distinguish between transmissions. For example, almost all transmissions found in Integra's are stamped S80. This includes the tall LS transmission and the ultra short JDM Type-R transmission. In some cases, the only way to determine which transmission you really have is to take it apart and count the number of teeth on the ring gear. Obviously, in most cases it's not practical to take your transmission apart to determine which one you have. To be safe when acquiring a transmission, you should identify the seller; try to identify the car and or motor it came with.

B16A (Cable), B16A2 (Hydro), B16A3(Hydro):
S4C, S80, Y80, Y21, Y1 (optional LSD)

As most of you know the B16A was featured in Japan between the years of 1989 through 2001. This engine has had several different transmissions mated to it causing some potential confusion.

First, it's important to realize that first generation B16A's came with cable transmissions. The Y1 came with optional factory LSD and should have LSD stamped on the transmission. Determining whether or not a transmission has LSD is very simple, just look into the differential and see if its opened or closed. For those not familiar with this, you'll either see a set of gears that form a closed cylinder, or you'll see an open differential with a bar splitting the middle.

Typically these transmissions have had weak synchro's in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears with 3rd gears crunching the most. Its also worth noting that all of the transmissions minus the Y1 have very weak open differentials making it essential that you upgrade if your putting a lot of power to the ground.

As far as gearing, these transmissions are all pretty short. Here is a listing of the gear ratios and final drive, courtesy of www.bseries.net.

1st: 3.230
2nd: 2.105
3rd: 1.458
4th: 1.107
5th: 0.848
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400

In conclusion, this transmission is good for all motor and should bring between 500-700 if its hydraulic while cable transmissions are worth between 400-600. Please be careful that the transmission you're buying doesn't have bad synchro's because a lot of them have been beaten on and this is the first problem you'll have. Plus, if you're making a lot of power, 170 to the wheels, be prepared to replace your differential because these can be broken with regularity.

B16B (Hydraulic):
S4C (LSD)

The transmission found in the Civic Type R is highly sought after and very rare. Its gear ratio's are identical to that of the B16A's but has a stronger limited slip and dual synchro's in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. Expect to pay between 1000-1200 for a genuine CTR transmission because they're rare and well worth the price. Its also worth mentioning that these transmissions are Hydraulic type.

B17A1 (Cable):
YS1

This transmission is found on the rare "blacksheep" of b-series motors. The most important feature here is that its cable-type. This means you can bolt this into any 93 and older integra and 91 and older civic without having to change to hydraulic. The synchro's on this transmission are still considered weak, however the gearing is very good for all motor applications as its identical to the B16A transmissions. Finally, this transmission did not have factory LSD, so keep that in mind when someone is trying to tell you otherwise. Look to pay between 400-600 dollars for this transmission, although its going to be difficult to find and usually when you do, there is something wrong with it.

B18A1 (Cable):
YS1

Again, you'll see how Honda didn't help us out any with the stamping on this transmission. These transmissions however, are much different in there gearing. This transmission has a longer first and second gear with slightly longer 3rd and 4th gears. The final drive is still 4.40:1 making this a possibility for all motor applications, but not your best choice. You'll be able to find this transmission in 90-93 Integra's and they're all cable-type. The prices for these should range between 200-400 for clean, good working units. Paying anymore is pointless, as these transmissions are everywhere.

B18B1 (Hydro):
S80/Y80

This is probably the easiest b-series transmission to find because it's found in every non-VTEC 94-01 Integra. Most notably, this transmission is the longest of all b-series transmissions and has the weakest synchro's and weakest differential. The final drive is 4.266:1 and each of the gears is longer compared to its B16A counterparts. For boost, a lot of people like the gearing of this transmission, plus gas mileage is great and they're very cheap. Look to pay no more than 500 for a clean LS tranny because they're everywhere.

Here is a look at the Specs.

1st: 3.230
2nd: 1.90
3rd: 1.269
4th: 0.966
5th: 0.714
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.266:1

B18C:
S80/Y80 (Optional LSD)

The transmission found in JDM GSR's is very popular and overall an excellent transmission. For all motor and boost applicatiosn this transmission has excellent gearing and a stronger differential compared to its B16A and B18B counterparts. The transmissions with LSD should have "LSD" stamped on the casing and to make sure, inspect the differential and use the parameters I described before to identify whether or not the transmission really has LSD. Look to pay between 700-1200 for this transmission depending on whether its LSD equipped. Also worth mentioning, these transmissions are all hydraulic.

Here is a look at the specs:

1st: 3.230
2nd: 1.900
3rd: 1.360
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.787
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400

B18C1:
Y80

This transmission is found in all USDM GSR's. Although LSD was not offered these transmissions are still highly sought after because of their stronger differentials and optimal gearing. For those not interested in ultra-short gearing this transmission provides the perfect balance between acceleration and top end. Look to pay around 700-1000 for these transmissions.

The specs are the same as above:

1st: 3.230
2nd: 1.900
3rd: 1.360
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.787
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400

B18C5:
S80 (Helical LSD)

This transmission is one of the best B-series transmissions Honda has offered in its vehicles. Every gear has dual synchro's and the gearing is perfect for all motor applications. Plus, LSD is standard and will be stamped on the housing. Look to spend between 1200-1400 for these transmissions because of their quality, LSD, age and gear ratio's. Finally, if there is some question about whether or not you're S80 has 4.4 final drive or 4.7 final drive you can check the transmission housing. The code "4jhd" means 4.4 final drive was offered as original equipment, while "n3e" signifies 4.78 final drive.

The specs are below:

1st: 3.230
2nd: 2.105
3rd: 1.458
4th: 1.107
5th: 0.848
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.400

B18C (JDM Type R):
S80 (Helical LSD)

JDM Type R transmissions are the best for all motor applications where acceleration is emphasized most. All 98 and up JDM Type R transmissions came with 4.785 final drive with the same 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears as the USDM Type R. To make highway driving more tolerable, the 4th and 5th gears are the same as GSR transmissions. Look to spend between 1400-1600 for these transmissions because of their final drive and rarity.

Here is a look at the specs:

1st: 3.230
2nd: 2.105
3rd: 1.458
4th: 1.034
5th: 0.787
Reverse: 3.000
Final Drive: 4.785

 

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/Bgears.htm

 

This is a great thread!

 

anyone know of a site the might help me rebuild my y1 cable tranny. i need to put sycros in it.

 

B-SERIES Transmission Teardown/Rebuild >>>>> https://honda-tech.com/forums/transmission-drivetrain-127/b-series-transmission-teardown-rebuild-tutorial-2443459/

D-SERIES S20 Transmission Rebuild >>>>>> http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/do...ld-89pics.html

 

why hasn't this been stickied yet?

 

Correct me if am wrong, but i could swear the BLACKSHEEP of the B-Series motors is the B20A1 found on older preludes?

 

Priceless info! Thank you for putting it together!

 

fact: some(or one) of the h22 transmission(s) use the dame 3/4 sliding gear from a gsr....jus saying

 

I see what you mean btw but it is generally accepted that when most people refer to the "B-series", they do not include the older and very different prelude B-series.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/b20a1-does-anyone-know-alot-about-motor-103585/

 

You can't say all B-Series and not include them all. That link doesn't really say anything.

 

good job thx

 

great write up but question, my shaft says "sr3" what is that and I did a b18c1 into my civic with a YS1 trans and it doesn't seem to fit right. It leaks for on i just changed the seal and it still doesn't seem like the shaft is in all the way. Will this shaft work with this trans in my car?? 95 civic

 

prob wrong intermediate shaft/seal combo

 

That's what i'm guessing but i need to know what one i need. I race sat and i'm freakin out lol

 

I Think I'm gonna learn a lot in this form. Thank you

 

thx gringo, as usual, if u look 4 something you will find it. I want to thank all of you on this
forum, being new to the honda world thx

 

So i have a question about release forl<s and release shafts for b series trannys, Sorry if im posting this in the wrong spot but figured it is an official B-series transmission guide lol anyways im doing a b18a1 swap into my 89 hatch, and when i aquired the transmission for the swap (a1 cable trans) i failed to notice it did not have the release shaft!!! Yes it was most certinaly an EPIC FAIL on my part! I went straight to honda figured no biggie and what do ya now its discontinued! So then searched all shops in my town (which is not the biggest) I searched HT for days am still lool<ing on DSO not really findin much so figured Id just have to asl< . Soooo is there anyway of getting a D-series release shaft and forl< to mount in a b-Series tranny? And perferably out of one of the two D-trannys i have laying around... Now i l<now right off D series is a bit smaller but maybe using D forl< and shaft i dont l<now guess im just hopin for anything right now, swap is so close to being done, sucl<s the last part i need i cant just go buy it hahaha FML! But anyways all help, experiences, or opinons would be appreciated but please refrain from the slams and noob comments just lool<in for some advice. Thx

 

Does your keyboard have no letter K?

 

Hahaha yea you noticed that huh? Its my brol<e *** laptop I dont l<now when it started doing it but one day outta da blue just quit on me!

 

backpacks and tangle up their electronics' cords.

 

two things to note:

1 - not all lsd's will have a bar not visible. the wavetrac i just purchased looks solid when you peer in through the axle hole


2 - if at all possible, try to get a DA intermediate shaft. i have a DC shaft and the only way to remove the axle out of it is by removing the axle and shaft from the car and then proceed to hammer out the axle. apparently it's a common thing to do

 

WILL A TRANSMISSION FROM A 92 INTEGRA BOLT UP INTO A 2000 INTEGRA CHASSIS ?

 

Please note, Auto intermediate shafts DO NOT work. You can grind them down, but its quite sketch and I don't recommend it.

 

yes, but you have to convert to cable