Blox v. Skunk2
As you can see from the title I need a little help from the suspension gurus. I'm in the process of doing a new wheels setup and Ill b ordering my camber kit as soon as some feedback comes through.
What are some the differences in the 2 listed? And what other ones are out there if any? Is 1 better than the other?
As of now I'm going with the blox front and rear I just wanted to kno about any other options before making the move.
What are some the differences in the 2 listed? And what other ones are out there if any? Is 1 better than the other?
As of now I'm going with the blox front and rear I just wanted to kno about any other options before making the move.
Yea that's the thing I just got a set of 15x8 0 offset XXR 522's I'm either gonna run 195/50 or 195/45. I wouldn't say "hellaflush" because I'm not running all that camber, although I always liked that look back when u only saw it on vdubs. I just don't think it's safe to ride like that on these Baltimore streets!!!! I know they're not necessary, I've never ran them on any of my cars that's y I'm just need some input
Most users here will tell you to save the money. If I were going to buy some camber arms I would get the hard race arms or some more reputable brand with good bushings.
Some camber makes the car handle better.
Some camber makes the car handle better.
-They both have issues with slipping out of alignment.
-They both have had issues with low quality bushings.
- They both have had issues with ball joints.
-They both will decrease the amount of clearance you have between the shock tower and the UCA. This will cause interference issues, wholes/dents in the shock towers, can bend the UCA, and there have even been cases where the knuckle was said to be bent.
- Skunk2 rear camber kits can loud, and make all sorts of noises. ( my friend's did)
-Blox has been known to have issues with the hardware seizing, there for making it very hard/impossible to adjust camber. Sunk2 does is not exempt from this as well, there have been people talking about it.
My friend's old car (95 ex) had Blox camber kit's front and rear, ( he was hella flush), the bushings/ball joints were shot in less then a year. The front hardware were completely seized, and the bolt actually broke as soon as we put any force on them.
The rear was almost at that point, but I was able to break them free.
My friend currently has skunk2 ( think, it's called the pro+ or something) in front of his Integra and has no issues. He is running SPC in the rear, again with no issues.
Although, that doesn't mean you will/wont have the same experience he has.
If you must have a camber kit, SPC is said to be the best, however, as with everything quality you pay for it. I have also heard great things about Buddy Club camber kits.
I would steer clear of anything Blox, even their endlinks.
-They both have had issues with low quality bushings.
- They both have had issues with ball joints.
-They both will decrease the amount of clearance you have between the shock tower and the UCA. This will cause interference issues, wholes/dents in the shock towers, can bend the UCA, and there have even been cases where the knuckle was said to be bent.
- Skunk2 rear camber kits can loud, and make all sorts of noises. ( my friend's did)
-Blox has been known to have issues with the hardware seizing, there for making it very hard/impossible to adjust camber. Sunk2 does is not exempt from this as well, there have been people talking about it.
My friend's old car (95 ex) had Blox camber kit's front and rear, ( he was hella flush), the bushings/ball joints were shot in less then a year. The front hardware were completely seized, and the bolt actually broke as soon as we put any force on them.
The rear was almost at that point, but I was able to break them free.
My friend currently has skunk2 ( think, it's called the pro+ or something) in front of his Integra and has no issues. He is running SPC in the rear, again with no issues.
Although, that doesn't mean you will/wont have the same experience he has.
If you must have a camber kit, SPC is said to be the best, however, as with everything quality you pay for it. I have also heard great things about Buddy Club camber kits.
I would steer clear of anything Blox, even their endlinks.
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I would do skunk 2 even tho there a little bet more expensive guess what u have more decrease for negative camber or more for positive plus there bushing there alot better than blox plus if u getting lower lca get skunk 2 why cuz u u want to put rear sway bar u got more opinion specially if u have aftermarket sway bar the lca will help out better
S2 Pro+'s all the way. Just make sure to use silicone grease between the poly bushings and the car frame.
The arms sit very firmly and snugly when you slide them in, so use the greases t prevent squeaking.

simply the best parts in the business, don't bash until YOU have em.
The arms sit very firmly and snugly when you slide them in, so use the greases t prevent squeaking.

simply the best parts in the business, don't bash until YOU have em.
Been running them for the last week & yes I got the rears.

and front


I work for WiredOnHonda, and took a tour of their facility in Norco. You should see the engineering, design, and quality control they do there.
http://www.facebook.com/AForsstrom.WiredOnHonda

and front


I work for WiredOnHonda, and took a tour of their facility in Norco. You should see the engineering, design, and quality control they do there.
http://www.facebook.com/AForsstrom.WiredOnHonda
Last edited by Thmanx; May 8, 2011 at 11:40 AM.
I'm not knocking the company, but they aren't the best in the business.
I've got a feeling your sponsored by them, or get some sort of discount from them.
Their valve train/cams are great, but the suspension just isn't the best, period.
I've got a feeling your sponsored by them, or get some sort of discount from them.
Their valve train/cams are great, but the suspension just isn't the best, period.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
You questioning my journalistic integrity?
lol I kid
Sure there are 'better' companies out there, HyTech for incidence prob will prob make you a header that does more power, however you'll also spend $1600+ for it, vs $800...
Buddyclub P1 racing spec coil overs also also 'better' then ProC's sure... but you don't even want to know the price for them. Let alone the price of a full Spoon suspension set up *_*
Not to thread jack but
I've just looked side by side, and more often then not the S2 product is top of the list...
just compare their Pro+ camber kits vs even BuddyClub, or their rear camber kits with billet ends and poly bushings, or their LCA's with fully threaded endlink holes.
Just those 3 parts alone are distinctly head over shoulders in design and innovation then their counterparts.
as for suspension, to which companies are you referring too? Have lap time results to verify?
lol I kid
Sure there are 'better' companies out there, HyTech for incidence prob will prob make you a header that does more power, however you'll also spend $1600+ for it, vs $800...
Buddyclub P1 racing spec coil overs also also 'better' then ProC's sure... but you don't even want to know the price for them. Let alone the price of a full Spoon suspension set up *_*
Not to thread jack but
I've just looked side by side, and more often then not the S2 product is top of the list...
just compare their Pro+ camber kits vs even BuddyClub, or their rear camber kits with billet ends and poly bushings, or their LCA's with fully threaded endlink holes.
Just those 3 parts alone are distinctly head over shoulders in design and innovation then their counterparts.
as for suspension, to which companies are you referring too? Have lap time results to verify?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I would take Koni/GC before Skunk2 "street" coilovers any day of the week, hell probably even over their "competition" coilovers. Much more cost effective, and lifetime warranty to boot.
And please, don't even mention LCA's. Nobody even comes close to the quality of Function7's LCA's. They do not thread their end link holes, as they want you to run a longer bolt with a nut and washer on the opposite end, which makes for a stronger connection than the factory bolt in a threaded hole.
As for camber kits, well IMHO OEM suspension arms, bushings, and ball joints are superior to any camber kit on the market, and I really don't advocate their use unless you need additional negative camber for track use, or for the rear only on cars that have a steep camber curve such as 96-00 Civics.
The fact that Skunk2 conveys WRONG information about their Pro-C II coilovers makes me seriously doubt their other suspension products as well.
And please, don't even mention LCA's. Nobody even comes close to the quality of Function7's LCA's. They do not thread their end link holes, as they want you to run a longer bolt with a nut and washer on the opposite end, which makes for a stronger connection than the factory bolt in a threaded hole.
As for camber kits, well IMHO OEM suspension arms, bushings, and ball joints are superior to any camber kit on the market, and I really don't advocate their use unless you need additional negative camber for track use, or for the rear only on cars that have a steep camber curve such as 96-00 Civics.
The fact that Skunk2 conveys WRONG information about their Pro-C II coilovers makes me seriously doubt their other suspension products as well.
their ProS's are a non adjustable set up, that provides independent ride height and spring load. For someone who wants to go low, and maintain shock usability and drivability, the ProS's do a better job then Koni/GC's would.
And to think that Koni/GC would possibly better then a professional ProC system is down right hilarious.
The S2 LCA's have a threaded body that goes through about 1.5'' of material, Much more sturdy then a single hole and bolt could do (such as BLOX or even BC's), and if you'd want more... use your extended bolts & use a washer/bolt.
Its a great thing that I do track my car and that I do have a 00 civic then :-/
You've proven my choice in suspension valid.
And to think that Koni/GC would possibly better then a professional ProC system is down right hilarious.
The S2 LCA's have a threaded body that goes through about 1.5'' of material, Much more sturdy then a single hole and bolt could do (such as BLOX or even BC's), and if you'd want more... use your extended bolts & use a washer/bolt.
Its a great thing that I do track my car and that I do have a 00 civic then :-/
You've proven my choice in suspension valid.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
What exactly does the ProC system get you over the ProS? Adjustable rebound damping I believe? Anything else?
Koni/GC has been street and track proven by tens of thousands of users over the past 10-15+ years. Saying Skunk2 makes the best parts in the business is downright hilarious in and of itself.
Not to mention the incorrect information on S2's website about the ProS's. When I contacted them about it they simply ignored me. Skunk2 will sure as hell never get any of my money directly.
We've gone way off topic here. The OP asked about S2 vs. Blox camber kits. The answer is: neither. Save your money, keep the stock suspension arms on the car, get it aligned, and call it a day.
Koni/GC has been street and track proven by tens of thousands of users over the past 10-15+ years. Saying Skunk2 makes the best parts in the business is downright hilarious in and of itself.
Not to mention the incorrect information on S2's website about the ProS's. When I contacted them about it they simply ignored me. Skunk2 will sure as hell never get any of my money directly.

We've gone way off topic here. The OP asked about S2 vs. Blox camber kits. The answer is: neither. Save your money, keep the stock suspension arms on the car, get it aligned, and call it a day.
what did you ask them?
Front camber kits are used not only to induce extra camber for track use, but to balance unequal camber cause by lowering a car.
Lower your car say 1-2 inches and you'll get weird numbers like -1.4 on the left but -2.2 on the right... Adjustable arms will allow you to balance em, for my i have it set both to -1.8
Front camber kits are used not only to induce extra camber for track use, but to balance unequal camber cause by lowering a car.
Lower your car say 1-2 inches and you'll get weird numbers like -1.4 on the left but -2.2 on the right... Adjustable arms will allow you to balance em, for my i have it set both to -1.8
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,067
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Having cross camber that far off means the frame has been tweaked. IMHO adjustable arms should not be used as a "band-aid" solution. For everyday daily driving street-use duties, adjustable camber kits usually cause more problems than they solve. This has been discussed at length in this forum for the past 2 years now.
what did you ask them?
Front camber kits are used not only to induce extra camber for track use, but to balance unequal camber cause by lowering a car.
Lower your car say 1-2 inches and you'll get weird numbers like -1.4 on the left but -2.2 on the right... Adjustable arms will allow you to balance em, for my i have it set both to -1.8
Front camber kits are used not only to induce extra camber for track use, but to balance unequal camber cause by lowering a car.
Lower your car say 1-2 inches and you'll get weird numbers like -1.4 on the left but -2.2 on the right... Adjustable arms will allow you to balance em, for my i have it set both to -1.8
After I lowered my car my camber is -.1* off each side front and rear. -1.8*/-1.7*
Rear -2.0*/-1.9*






