Ok, long story short. My crx sat up for about 6 months while I got the new motor and had it replaced by my brother in law. It ran fine for about 3 weeks and then one night on the way home from work it cut off on me. It just died, no stuttering or anything, just dash lights and dead.

So, it's been sitting up for a while now because my brother in law said it probably needed to be tuned. I let it sit idling and it will run for about 10-15 minutes before dying. Most of the time it bogs and revs for a few seconds before stalling. Usually it starts back up within a few minutes.

I took it for a test spin last night and after getting on it and boosting, it died at the second stop sign down from my house. It took 45 minutes for me to get it cranked again and back to the house. I noticed on the return trip that as long as it didn't boost, it wouldn't try to stall.

My buddy at work that works on cars said it was most likely either gunk built up in the tank from sitting for so long and getting sucked up into the filter causing it to stall or possibly the pump.

I figure that it's probably the gunk build up as the boosting is causing it to suck in more fuel thus blocking it up faster. Any ideas? He's coming over this weekend to take a look at it but any advice would be great.


FWIW, it's a dohc zc with mpfi and a 14b turbo setup at 9 lbs of boost. Thanks!

 

Is the car tuned at all or is it running on a stock ECU? Do you have upgraded injectors?

I am assuming what your brother in law said, this is the case.

If this is the case DO NOT drive the car until you have it properly tuned or even a base map, atleast the basemap is better than a stock ECU.

I wouldn't recommend driving it until one of the two options above have been fulfilled unless you want to grenade your motor if you are getting into boost.

 

It has upgraded injectors and it's already been converted to md0 or whatever with a new ecu, chipped. He had everything done when I get the car from him. I drove it for about 6 months or so. The reason it went out is because it had an oil leak which I forgot about so it locked up. I bought a replacement zc motor from some online import site and he put it in. So everything is the same, but it took about 3 weeks for it to start having this problem.

 

Have you checked the timing to make sure it didn't slip a tooth?

Is the fuel pump priming properly? When you turn the key on, does the Check engine light come on for 2 seconds and then off? When it does this do you hear 2 clicks under the dash? One when the light comes on and then again when the light goes off?

 

Check voltage to pump and swap out main relay if you can. Also if you have a bov how is it ran.

 

A buddy came over today and the main relay is kind of hanging loose and taped up. Seems that's how my brother in law put it back when he swapped the motor. When my buddy would move the relay around the idle would change from high to low, depending how how he moved it. Sometimes it even killed the fuel pump.

I'm going to swap out the relay tomorrow and later in the night give it a test run.

 

I replaced the main relay. It seems to do better but I didn't have time to take a test spin. I might do that tonight. However, the ECU wasn't throwing out a code, which it had done before. Now it is, code 14, which I found is the EACV or something like that. Any ideas?

 

Here is the manual for EACV, should help you figure out if it is bad or if it might be a wiring issue. This also may have something to do with the overall problem but for some reason it wasn't throwing a code until you changed the main relay.

 

What does that mean? Mine does that

 

Thanks! I'll check that out tonight hopefully. Been busy at work. New alarm came in today so I need to hook that up too for the door poppers. It's no fun crawling through the hatch.

 

Cleaned out the EACV and it wasn't the problem. I think it might be the ECU. My brother in law did a crappy job on the soldering and I remember it having a problem turning over before when some solder points came loose. I'm getting another ECU to check it.

 

Ok, so my brother in law redid the wiring and it ran, but ran a little hot. I drove it to a buddies house about 10 miles away and it was fully hot once I got within a mile of his house. On the way home it overheated and I had to pull over three times before I finally made it home. I found a slight crack running along the top of the radiator so it sat for a week until the replacement came in. We replaced the radiator and thermostat along with the plugs and wires. However, when I went to start the car it wouldn't turn over.

It's acting like it's trying to but won't turn over. Also, the battery is brand new but it won't stay charged either. No lights or anything else are left on and wiring is good. I've been searching online and it looks like I probably blew the head gasket when it overheated. Does this sound like the probable cause?

 

Your best bet is to do a leak down test. Here is a how to and anything more than 10% leak then you know what the issue is.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A-how-leakdown-test-%2A%2A-1491041/

This will tell you inevitably if the car needs a new head gasket.

As far as the wiring goes, have tried to charge the battery and take off the negative wire to see if the battery is dead in the morning? It sounds like you have a draw somewhere in the wiring still.

 

since you did the thermostat did you remember to put the ground on the thermostat housing back its easy to forget
also check fuse #14 under the dash your eacv and main relay run through that fuse