Just to name a few things I have noticed on the way home.

The idle when started hits little over 2k. After it warms up, seems to be between 700 and 1k. The right side sounds like the axle needs replaced...clicks when I turn. The transmission shifts weird. If I baby it, it will shift normal, but if I just basically get on it, like i can with my other car, seems to skip a gear. It shifts, just revs up high then shifts.

Any pointers would be great. All else fails, I will just sell it and try to get what I paid for it.

1988 Honda Accord DX.

(also what motor is in this thing (4 cyc))

 

46 views and nobody left a response? I guess Ill have to find a better forum then.

 

anyways, got it home. Let it sit an hour. Came out and started it. Fired right up...rpms rising above 1k. Decided to tap the throttle...and the RPMs jumped up and kept rising over 3k.

Can someone tell me where the iac on this car to see if this is a problem?

 

.....

 

I could help give you a starter plan, but what's your budget, and how much into the car do you have already? Is this a sentimental purchase or just a a car you want to get running? If the altter, you could ed up being more into it than worth. But I won't jump to any conclusions before hearing back from you.

Good luck.

 

1988HADX- Still here? Sorry I don't look in here as much as I should.

Fast idle unloader would be the first place to check for the high rpm's on cold start up. Also be sure the battery and alt are good, you'd be surprise how high the rpm's get....different story.

Change/check the trans fluid. Also check the throttle control cable going to the trans for proper adjustment.

 

Yes Im still here...but havent messed with car since i bought it. I bought this car because the lady said it was a good running 4 cyl. didnt know it was carb til i got it home. Now im thinking about getting rid of it...but unsure...

As for budget...i get about $400/wk from working. Plan to buy a new part every week til I can run it...but the transmission scares me...I guess its the "what if" popping into my head...what if i get everything fixed then the trans goes out?....

poorman...i can tell you the battery is shot...but Ive had a maintainer on it...since the battery is supposed to be little over a year old. I know the alt is good....nice battery charger says its charging at 14 volts.

Would the axles cause the transmission to shift oddly if they are worn out?

 

Get the battery tested and replace if needed, that very well could be the source of the "run away" rpm's.....Check/clean the battery posts. Also check the voltage output of the alt, got a volt meter?

CV shafts won't cause the shifting issue, IMO.

Change the fluid, at least two maybe three times (driving 50~100 miles in between) and check that the throttle control cable is properly adjusted...cost, ~10 quarts of trans fluid and a small amount of time.

 

I messed around with the car lastnight...just for shitz and giggles....grabbed the throttle cable...the part thats is wrapped up....idle dropped...so im going to say..the throttle cable is getting stuck somewhere and wont allow the choke to close properly.

(battery only starts off battery charger..my charger has a voltage meter when its turned off...battery starts dropping from 13.5 - .1 every second.

Anyone have any axles they are wanting to sell?

 

Could be the source of the high idle and the shifting issue as well...good find.

Put a volt meter on the car while it is running, be sure the alt is putting out ~14.5 volts....if you end up having to replace the alt, DO NOT pull the cv shaft, as the book says, there is another way to do this that is easier IMO.

 

Well If I do..it would be ok to remove the cv joints as they are needing replaced. I just need to find a 32mm socket.

 

The book says to pull the left/drivers shaft, so if you confirm the alt is bad and that shaft is bad, go for it. I prefer to pull it out from the top...

 

Alternator is fine. The axles are shot...well I would think they are since the cv boot is ripped in half. Also noticed when I had the front wheels off the ground, that the right wheel had a wobble...but when I checked the left...it was tight...Im guessing its the wheel bearing that I felt/heard when I drove it...but I plan on replacing it all anyways...unless I find a better car...then I might sell it. Who knows.

 

Headed back out to pull the switch off...ack...battery no good...have to charge it to start it...

 

Mind me asking what you paid for it?

Anyway I think 80's hondas look boss!

What kind of condition is the body and frame in?

I wish you good luck with the car.

 

I paid too much for it...as it needs more work then im willing to put into it. $600. Theres a few dents, paint is faded. Looks like someone backed into something in the rear and theres some rust around the wheel wells. But the undercarage is rust free because of the rhino lining stuff.

Im actually looking to get rid of it now...I broke a bolt in the therostat housing trying to remove the thermostat...and i tried drilling the broken threads out....but somehow, drill jumped over and I kinda drilled a new hole.

 

I'm sorry it didn't work out too great so far... Sounds like your learning a lot though.

Keep us posted.

 

Well I might keep it....but I need not the thermostat housing, but the other side...that bolts to the engine. Where can I find this without going to a junkyard?

 

Dealer will charge an arm and leg, if they even offer it anymore.

Bone yard is prob the best bet. 86-89 carb is what you you want to find, can make an FI in the same year work.

 

I ordered the Thermostat housing case off www.hondapartsnow.com

Price wasnt to bad. Also got a few other things I need...so I guess Ill continue to work on her...since I have everything I need on the way here...

 

19320-PH2-901 CASE, THERMOSTAT
38.91

19313-PC6-000 GASKET, THERMOSTAT CASE
1.16

19305-PC6-000 RUBBER, THERMOSTAT MOUNTING
2.51

17261-PH1-020 CLAMP, THROTTLE WIRE
9.36


Subtotal $51.94
Tax $0.00
UPS Ground $16.16
Special Shipping Cost $0.00
Total $68.10

 

Personal suggestion, put anti-sieze on the little bolts that hold the housing to the "case". Also be sure to not over tighten them.....I realize the "person before you" caused the issue but it is good insurance...IMO.

 

Operative words being "anti-seize". You pretty much need to use it on every bolt that goes in an aluminum piece. Wait until that time when you pull a spark plug and the threads come with it- not fun. I'm real interested if the tranny flush works. Can you give us pics of the old fluid? Good luck and post back with results.

 

Ill remember that. just got my haynes manual...and my axle socket sometime today...

 

So Ive been working on the Honda off and on this weekend. Got my 32mm socket and Haynes manual Friday. Tried really hard to use my normal breaker bar to break free the axle nuts....but they wouldnt budge. Just so happens, the railing that goes downstairs is a hollow steel pipe...about 8 ft long. I just removed the nails and unscrewed from the other part...and used that as my cheater pipe...lol. Anyways, with my cheap breaker bar...I stood on the pipe...pulled and pushed. Nothing worked. Actually ended up snapping that breaker bar, so I went a couple blocks to Sears and bought a craftsman BB. Got home...put the breaker bar straight to the sky, put the 8ft cheater pipe on and pulled....it finally squeeked loose. Also bought a ball joint seperator. Got the bottom joint free...took the bolt out for the fork? and axle came out nicely. Now for the other side....nut came easy after I unstaked it. Got the joint on bottom off...but I cannot break free the fork...I have the nut off...and the bolt turns but will not go anywhere. Ive tried to beat on it with the hammer side of an axe...but it will not move. Am tempted to buy a saw-zaw and remove it that way. But before I do this, does anyone have any suggestions other then cutting the bolt? Im pretty much at a stand still til I get this figured out. Driver side axle is out...just cant get that dang fork off for the suspension.