91 hatch motor build
I gotta few questions about a motor build i am about to get started on. And remember this is for a turbo application,, as of now i am running a D15B vtec on 9 psi , 230 whp ... but i dont think my block is gonna last to much longer because it has been raped daily for the past 4 years being boosted im suprised it has went as far as it did. But anyways Im about to buy a complete Y8 block , and i was going to use my d15b V head on it. The Head is all stock besides a Skunk 2 pro series intake mani , My question is with using the y8 block with that head , what timing belt do i need to use and what water pump do i need to use for 1 . for 2 , is my setup , i want to run a lil bit more boost, but i dont have the extra money for pistons or rods. So would it be best to use the y8 pistons and rods ? and what about the crank , what whould be the best crank to use . shiuld i stick with all y8 parts or lets say use a z6 crank for instance , i want optimal power . About the pistons also should i keep the y8 pistons or use the d15 or maybe z6 pistons ? and also rods ? rememeber i dont have money for aftermaket parts so im trying to compinsate by finding out which whould be the best combo for boost , But i will use Arp head bolts, Arp rod bolts , and new bearings for the main and rods , and possibly block guard , SOOO if i just do this to it what would be a Safe number to run psi wise ? it made 230ish on 9 pis , soooo would 13 be safe for this setup ? or a lil lower ? So in a nutshell i want to know the best STOCK internals to use for the y8 block and with only arp rod and head bolts and new bearings and blockguard what would be a Safe boost level/HP level.And timing belt/WP ?
You cannot think in terms of "What PSI can I run safely". The reason I say that is 10 PSI on a small 16g from an EVO is not the same as 10 PSI on a 35R. You need to set a goal on how much power you want to make and go from there.
Is the car a daily? Do you need it to be reliable? If you answer yes to these, I would personally just keep it at the 230 you are doing now. Remember, fast,cheap, reliable, you can only pick 2.
Do you have the money to tune the car properly if you run more boost with the new motor? You can spend 10k on a motor and not use any to tune it and chances are it won't last very long.
As for the timing belt/water pump. If you use a stock y8 water pump, you use the y8 timing belt. If you use a z6 water pump, use the z6 timing belt. They both have the same number of teeth but different part numbers, which I can only assume that the water pumps are different.
I would personally advise against using a block guard. I had bought a b16 that ended up having a block guard in it and had nothing but troubles with over heating etc. Don't waste 100 bucks on something that isnt going to be worth it. Use it somewhere else, such as if you need to buy a walboro fuel pump or injectors (depending on what you have now).
One last thing, remember you will need a 2 1/2 bar map if you plan on running over 11 psi as the stock MAP sensor can only register to 11 psi of positive pressure.
Is the car a daily? Do you need it to be reliable? If you answer yes to these, I would personally just keep it at the 230 you are doing now. Remember, fast,cheap, reliable, you can only pick 2.
Do you have the money to tune the car properly if you run more boost with the new motor? You can spend 10k on a motor and not use any to tune it and chances are it won't last very long.
As for the timing belt/water pump. If you use a stock y8 water pump, you use the y8 timing belt. If you use a z6 water pump, use the z6 timing belt. They both have the same number of teeth but different part numbers, which I can only assume that the water pumps are different.
I would personally advise against using a block guard. I had bought a b16 that ended up having a block guard in it and had nothing but troubles with over heating etc. Don't waste 100 bucks on something that isnt going to be worth it. Use it somewhere else, such as if you need to buy a walboro fuel pump or injectors (depending on what you have now).
One last thing, remember you will need a 2 1/2 bar map if you plan on running over 11 psi as the stock MAP sensor can only register to 11 psi of positive pressure.
Yeah , the car is driven about 3 times a week . It was tuned at RLZ b4 and plan to go back so tuning is not a issue , but ... the internals is my q that didnt get answered ... what the best stock crank/pistons/rods to use ?
D16y8 Vitara piston help
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/d16y8-vitara-piston-help-2565657/
More info on Suzuki Vitara pistons
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/more-info-suzuki-vitara-g16-pistons-954478/
Hyper-eutectic, low c/r, cheap... Sounds good to me for u single cam guys.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/d16y8-vitara-piston-help-2565657/
More info on Suzuki Vitara pistons
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/more-info-suzuki-vitara-g16-pistons-954478/
Hyper-eutectic, low c/r, cheap... Sounds good to me for u single cam guys.
go big or go home, do it right or not at all.
you could always look up how to use LS Integra rods in a d16. Cheaper.
it has been said DOHC ZC pistons are good, it has been said they are terrible. hard to say.
Get some forged pistons and rods if you plan on going far with this... it's worth the investment to know your bottom-end won't die so easy.
that being said, if you're just worried about the 1.5L dying, just swap in the y8 block and call it a day. it has more life in it.
then, save up to upgrade your internal... then lots of boost...
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yea ... im not trying to make a extreme amount of power tho , my d15 is still going , and has been for 4 years , the y8 will be stock ,, but i just wanted to know the best STOCK mix match parts to use... i may look into how to use LS rods like u said.
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