hey i need to kno how much boost i can run on stock block on my integra b18 turbo
[I]i have a b18 1.8l dohc that im turboing and im trying to figure out if i need to sleeve it and get bigger pistons im only going to be driving it maybe 2 times a week and need to know if i can run 14psi on the stock block and it all be okay? ive changed too single 2core radiator, cam gears timming belt, fuel rail, chip ecu and fuel pump what do you think if you could help me out anyone??[/[/SIZE]I]
Try 44PSI, make a video and post results.
We'll tell you where to go from there.
Mods tell me I have to tell you I'm kidding.
Don't run 44PSI.
Start out low from 5-8 and make sure it's tuned quite well.
We'll tell you where to go from there.
Mods tell me I have to tell you I'm kidding.
Don't run 44PSI.
Start out low from 5-8 and make sure it's tuned quite well.
depeding on hows the condition of youre eng. you can run a good amount of boost if tunning is good and race gas use. i use to run 18-20 psi on my bone stock gsr with drag turbo
about 10 yrs. ago for the track only and 10psi would be for daily driven. eng had about 135miles
but i eventually got the motor built. and running even more boost.
remember tunning is key..
about 10 yrs. ago for the track only and 10psi would be for daily driven. eng had about 135miles
but i eventually got the motor built. and running even more boost.
remember tunning is key..
Yeah tuning and gas are the deciding factors on a stock boosted motor. Search for THE BEST tuner in your area and have him tune it on the highest octain gas your willing to run. And dont skimp and go running lower octain gas bc one week your gf made you a poor *** MF'r, haha. Thats how I killed my first turbo D16.
Usually a b18 block can hold about 300whp safely. So, it all really depends on the manifold and turbo used.
As I told you in the other forum, please go to the FI section. You will get better results there!
And again, PSI means nothing, 14 psi on car a and car b mean totally different things.
And again, PSI means nothing, 14 psi on car a and car b mean totally different things.
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This thread should be moved. OP did you really try to Bold/Italic/Size your thread. Not necessary sir, we can all read just fine w/normal font.
i have a boosted 1996 ls with a chipped p28 ecu and dyno tuned and when i hit boost and let off of it it will just die and sometimes it will start back up and somtimes it will take 10 or 15 min. But if i dont hit boost it wont do it....
OP. this has been covered over and over. try a search quick.
and where the hell did this come from??? lol.
but it could be a bad/wrong map setup...
but it could be a bad/wrong map setup...
Okay first off boost means nothing it matters how much your rods will hold before they break threw the block second theres a huge thread on boosted ls's. And when you get it tuned make sure to have a boost cut on the tune. I would wait on the sleeving since you'll probably blow this up pretty quick.
the mani im using is a ramhorn!! and im not wanting to make it dd im just wanting to make it a weekend car or a saturday car.. so i want to push as much hp as poss..if it blows up in 6months ill rebuild the engine..
When you say "stock block", are you referring to all stock internals also? (pistons & rods) Or are referring to aftermarket internals and stock sleeves.
Okay first off boost means nothing it matters how much your rods will hold before they break threw the block second theres a huge thread on boosted ls's. And when you get it tuned make sure to have a boost cut on the tune. I would wait on the sleeving since you'll probably blow this up pretty quick.

OP, let's get a little more info here. Turbo size, engine management, what internals, grade of fuel that's gonna be used, etc.
most people, and i mean "most" people, generally have a lack of knowledge when it comes to the complexity's of turbo design and airflow cfm/pressure, etc. Thats why by a general rule of thumb, anything beyond 15psi is "at your own risk". While honda motors arent exactly fragile, most people never take the time to properly invest in knowing things. They just "slap" it on and go, part of the reason 15psi is the general rule of thumb.
also the higher you push beyond 15psi regardless of turbo size, you tend to extenuate any micoscopic flaws that are inherent in engine design. Some cars ring lands can go at 10psi on a small turbo, some cars they can hold 20 with no problem. Just depends on how much your willing to risk to find out where your engines failure point will be. There really isnt a turbo small enough where 15psi isnt gonna pose some kinda risk.
also, since my brain is starting to hurt here at 2am, the hp rating on mechanical parts like rods and pistons generally is a good rule of thumb to use, i cant argue with that, because hp is created from the amount of pressure created after ignition in the cylinder.
also, since my brain is starting to hurt here at 2am, the hp rating on mechanical parts like rods and pistons generally is a good rule of thumb to use, i cant argue with that, because hp is created from the amount of pressure created after ignition in the cylinder.
most people, and i mean "most" people, generally have a lack of knowledge when it comes to the complexity's of turbo design and airflow cfm/pressure, etc. Thats why by a general rule of thumb, anything beyond 15psi is "at your own risk". While honda motors arent exactly fragile, most people never take the time to properly invest in knowing things. They just "slap" it on and go, part of the reason 15psi is the general rule of thumb.
From Tony the Tiger himself:
PSI is simply the restriction between your turbo and the motor. Ignition timing directly determines the VE and efficiency of the motor, therefore, if I run 15 PSI with 5 deg BTDC on a standard T3/T4, your effective torque and HP production is no different than some dude running 8 PSI of boost at 20 deg BTDC. .........
Boost means sh*t, and learn to cope with it. It doesn't make you look smarter if you can run 18 PSI on 11.5:1 CR but barely crack 250 WHP/200 TQ.
Street tuning is known for that, either blindingly give too much timing, or dumb it down so much that the engine literally becomes a retard with the turbo wheezing, air wooshing but no sh*t gets done and no power is made. If you don't have the right tools to do the job, then don't do it.
Interesting words to remember
PSI is simply the restriction between your turbo and the motor. Ignition timing directly determines the VE and efficiency of the motor, therefore, if I run 15 PSI with 5 deg BTDC on a standard T3/T4, your effective torque and HP production is no different than some dude running 8 PSI of boost at 20 deg BTDC. .........
Boost means sh*t, and learn to cope with it. It doesn't make you look smarter if you can run 18 PSI on 11.5:1 CR but barely crack 250 WHP/200 TQ.
Street tuning is known for that, either blindingly give too much timing, or dumb it down so much that the engine literally becomes a retard with the turbo wheezing, air wooshing but no sh*t gets done and no power is made. If you don't have the right tools to do the job, then don't do it.
Interesting words to remember
tony is right, but the "reference" numbers people give, either psi, hp, or what not are all generalizations made on what is known from other builds.
dont boost it over 15 pounds if your stock unless u want to blow it up so dont listen to theses idiots saying to bost them to 20 pounds to be honest even 15 pounds is a risk
Good job with the thread bump with worthless info. If you don't know what you're talking about stfu.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,723
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
You dont know what your talking about bruh. You can not measure power by psi. That's the basic rule of turboing







