I don't know if this is normal, but I was doing a valve adjustment and every time I put each piston at TDC, the timing belt lost tension.
I did the timing belt with the engine out 18k miles ago, then dropped the engine in and drove the car down the street to test it and it was running like straight ****. So me and my buddy figured it was the cam timing. We did it again, the right way, and still couldn't get the teeth to fit perfect on the belt and gears. figured we did it the totally wrong way the first time. but engine ran good after the re-adjustment.

Did driving it mess something up permanently?

and I think the new timing belt came as a package with the a new water pump but I only used the belt since the water pump on the engine was still like new. is this a no-no?

 

You're belt is not tensioned properly. When you have everything lined up at TDC spin the motor counter clockwise a few times to make sure it does not jump a teeth.

Then when you're going to tighten the tensioner turn the motor over so that all 3 sides of the t-belt are fairly tight. Then tighten down the tensioner to the proper torque specs.

I have used this method on many cars. It has never failed me.

 

hmmm, did you get the right belt and the right water pump with the correct number of teeth?

 

this guy just came over to buy some wheels from me and I told him the problem and he also said it was my tensioner. That's what I'm thinking it is. I bought the belt as a kit that came with the tesioner and WP. I only used the belt from the kit, when I should've used everything.

 

I'm pretty sure it's the right belt because it fits good and gets tight whenever the engine is not at TDC. I can see what you mean by having the wrong belt/pump combo, but I don't think that's the problem.

 

With the tensioner loosen and the crank at TDC, put the belt on. There should only be slack on the Exhaust manifold side (so the left side of the gear). The top and the intake manifold side(right) should all be tight.

tighten up the tensioner.

then turn the crank counter clockwise 3 teeth.

loosen the tensioner about 180 degrees, this will allow the tensiner to tighten up and pull the slack.

tighten the tensioner and turn the crank 2 or 3 times of full rotation and it should be tight.

i had the same issue with this. if this does not solve the issue the tensioner is the problem and needs to be replaced.

FYI Make sure you use 5mm pegs or allenwrenches to hold the cams in place when putting on the timing belt

 

Ok I had the same problem. Went through a lot of valves, eventually a head too (bent valve yanked a valve guide and obliterated the head). I finally figured it out and it pissed me off so much. On the tensioner there is a spring that is supposed to pull the slack out like the above poster said. This spring comes with a rubber shroud on it. When u buy the kit it doesn't come with the spring. It goes bad! So it doesn't have the force to pull the belt tight. When I took mine off to look at it after doing this about 6 times, the thig fell apart when I pulled the shroud off. So what I do now is take a coat hanger and thread it through the hole where the spring goes and have some one put constant tension on it as I rotate the engine slowly in normal rotation. Counter clockwise . After a few rotations I check the belt is tight then tighten the tensioner. Check the marks. Then button it all up if it checks out. Done this at least 10 times in the last 5 years never had a problem. So check that spring.

 

damn! I really don't feel like doing this work. and I'm almost certain that the belt has been like this since I dropped the engine in 18k miles ago! I'm surprised it has lasted this long and I smash this engine all the time. I think it shows how good a Honda engine really is.
I just can't wait to get this engine out and put in a VTEC beast. hahahaaaa....

but hey, thanks to all you guys for the info. I can always count on H-T.

 

it really isn't all that bad of work to be done.

imagine replacing head gaskets, and the tensioner bolt siezes up on you and then we will talk about a work load.

just pull valve cover off, upper timing belt cover

loosen the tensioner

pull the belt off and readjust it where the slack is on the left side of the cams

and then do my steps as i previously stated.

could do all that in about 30 mins of time while texting

 

Yea it don't take that long. You need to get that slack out. You don't know how many bullets you've dodged not having a cam slip a few teeth. Fix it or you'll be sorry when your picking valve chunks out of a piston, or when your head tries impersonating swiss cheese with the help of a wild valve stem . But seriously at least check that spring if your not gonna do it my way.

 

so if I couldn't get the belt tight the first time I put it on, then it must be the spring on the tensioner that is no good? where can I get this at? because I don't think the new tensioner came with a spring. I will have to check.

 

I would try the new tensioner first. What's there to lose? You already have it.

 

yeah and remember to put engine oil on the tensioner bolt before you put it back into the block.

 

Not sure where you get the spring. That's why I went with the hanger thing. I knew I could put enough tension that way, so that's how I've done it ever since. But if you have a new tensioner go ahead and use it. No reason not to.

 

^^^This is incorrect! Attempting to tension the belt with the tensioner pulley bolt tight is pointless, as nothing happens to the belt's tension.

When installing the timing belt, you MUST follow this procedure to ensure proper tension on the belt:

1. Make sure the crank and cam gears are all properly aligned at TDC.

2. Loosen the tensioner bolt, pull the tensioner back, then tighten the bolt to make belt installation easier.

3. Install the belt in this order: crank sprocket -> tensioner -> water pump -> exhaust cam -> intake cam.

NOTE: You MUST install the belt over the exhaust cam gear BEFORE the intake cam gear, or you'll end up with slack like shown in the first pic above. The belt must be pulled tight between the crank and exhaust cam gear before you put the belt over the intake cam gear.

4. Loosen the tensioner bolt to allow the tensioner to apply tension to the belt.

5. Rotate the crank 5-6 times to ensure everything rotates freely, no valves touching pistons, etc.

6. Line the engine back up to TDC, then loosen the tensioner bolt.

7. Rotate the crank such that the cam gears move 3 teeth past one another.

8. Tighten the tensioner bolt to spec.

Step #7 is what puts the final tension on the belt - rotating the engine slightly with the tensioner bolt loose.

My GS-R is on its 4th timing belt and just turned over 300K miles last week (belt replaced at 90K, 180K, and 270K). I have always installed a new tensioner pulley AND a new spring, all OEM Honda, and have never had any issues.

 

Make sure the tensioner itself is mounted correctly and not off its post or you will never get the belt tension right no matter what...

 

i wouldnt think turn the crank while the tensioner loosen would be the proper way, i've always tightened it up before and then loosened it after i turned it three teeth and it always tightens up, i have never had any issue so im pretty sure im not incorrect.

 

The reason for turning the crank by 3 teeth on the cam gears with the tensioner bolt loose is so that the belt going around the back side of the engine (crank to tensioner to WP to intake cam gear) will tighten up. If the bolt isn't loose, the pulley can't move and can't take out the slack.

When you first install the belt, any slack should be between the crank gear and intake cam gear (around the tensioner and WP). When you turn the crank with the tensioner bolt loose, the belt pulls the exhaust cam gear, which pulls the intake cam gear, which pulls the belt around the tensioner and WP, and the slack comes out.

 

i know the reason you turn the crank three teeth but when you turn the three teeth and the loosen it, the tensioner tightens up so either way your getting it tightened.

 

I still would not trust that method at all. Yeah it will tighten up some, but not as much as doing it the PROPER way of loosening the bolt before you turn the crank slightly. That's the factory-specified method and the only method I would trust to put the proper tension on the timing belt.

Why would you not want to do it the way Honda specifies it be done? You haven't had any problems, but there's a chance that you could. Why take that chance?

 

aww sh*t....there's always gotta be an argument on the right way to do it. it's a darn Honda engine, not a rocket booster for NASA. can someone just come and do it for me then??? I'll probably just look at the shop manual for this one. I think either way I do it, it will work..... thanks again guys. you never cease to amaze me with whatever you have to say

 

Well I hate that there seems to be an "argument". The procedure I described is exactly what you'll find in the Helms. I just checked it myself 2 seconds ago to be sure. The only thing the Helms doesn't say is where I said to pull the tensioner back (stretch the spring) and tighten the bolt during belt installation. This just makes belt installation a bit easier as you're not fighting the spring tension so much.

 

^^^that guy's good...thats exactly how i do mines and it hasnt failed me once

 

not really arguing , im just stating how i've done it serveral times and works fine.

everyone has their way and it not being the way honda or helms states it doesn't make it incorrect, as long as the belt doesn't have slack like the picture above and it doesn't loosen up after a few cranks then you'll be fine

 

Doing it incorrectly can cause your timing marks to be maligned.