something is severly wrong w/ my ignition. i was doing a break job then desided to put my new ignitor in. did that worked fine. i drive it around a bit then take the car out that night. thing miss fired like a son of a bitch. keep on hesitating etc under wot. car dies. i pop start. it dies i repeat this. findlay i maganed to get the car to a saturn dealership and proceede to tear apart the dizzy. i figured i had a bad connection. get the car started seems fine 2 block later same ****. i get to my buddys house pull the thing apart again re crimp the connectors etc. still fuct up. i park it for a week as i have school and work

friday night: re wire the dizzy. make new connections for ignitor and coil (external msd). throw the **** back on. run it. ***** up. hesitates, tach jumps around all over the place car sucks.

today: 12:30pm. i begine to think its a mpfi swap wiring problem. so i make a new friggn engine harness (hehe). throw that **** in. i think mabey its a bad plug wire, its grounding out etc under load at high R's. i buy new plugs and wires. throw those in. needed a valve adjustment so i did that as well.

8:45pm. i finish everything. start the car let it warm up and rev it to 4200rpm. tach jumps around. i redline it tach goes to i dunno 9-10k tach stops at 8 and 6500 is redline so i dunno. ***** still fuct but not hesitating or missing. i take the car out.
floor it out of 1st 4L tach jumps and bounceds all over car missed but doesnt die. does this in every gear at high rpms no mater if wot or not.

now: i think my msd blaster 2 coil is fuct. i have the tach running off the coil (not ignitor like stock) and tach jumps around. means a voltage problem either before or at coil. Msd reccomends you use a 0.8ohm resistor ahead of the coil for points and mallory ignitons other wise they can stop working or explode. id like to buy a new coil and try that. aparently blaster 2 is the only coil where you need a resistor. blaster ss and other are fine w/o em. guess i fuct up on that purchace.

think its the coil? i cant think of anything else. no codes nothing like that.
recap: ive done this:
plugs
wires
rotor
cap is 3 weeks old
rewired dizzy
rewired engine harness
swapped ignitors
pissed ontop of my car.

any thoughts would be greatly apreciated. id like to get this **** fixed bc i have to put these in something

 

your the man i need to talk to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! how much of a difference is the a6 trans compared to the 4 speed? its worth it right?
i hate the ******* 4 speed!!!!!!!!!!!! my car pulls so good after 4500,but takes an hour to get to 4800!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i would put the ignition back to stock and see what happens.

 

a6 trans owns the 4 speed.
4 speed 2nd gear owns the a6 tho.

main problem was the 4 speed sending me 1,000rpm out of the power curve every time i shifted. id go, wait a bit then get going again. however the 4speed 2nd gear went to 70mph at 6500rpm on my car which got some weird looks from other honda owners when i ran them . 4speed 3rd gear is non existant and 4th is just an over drive for 3rd. a6 trans gets shitty gas milage but i average 20.8mpg which is decent but not the 47 i got when my car was bone stock. also your car should start to pull around 3800rpm. not 4500 mine does idk. but evidently 88 d15b1's were the only d15s w/ 9.6:1 compression everything else was 9.2:1 could explain it if your not an 88

only modded thing w/ my ignition is the coil. its an a6 dizzy mpfi'd in there cant really undo that. coils a coils a coil. if a new one works and straightenes out the car i'll buy many coils



[Modified by TorteX, 10:14 PM 9/28/2002]

 

ya in the 1/8 mile im still in second.hehe! do you know any one with a 88-91 si distrib you can try? oh you soldered all the dizz wires?

 

i get 30 mpg in my d15 with si trans ****** hate it i want a dx trans again whyd it have to blow up ****** sucky ****

 

i swapped coils, still doesnt work properly. anyone ni the milwaukee area have another pm6 or some kind of obd0 teg ecu?

 

i have a 90 ls computer, sounds like you are running a single cam motor, correct?

 

I had ths same problem...well kinda...I just couldnt get my car startd....it kept clickin where he main relay is...it was all fucked up and I was throwing a code 20 so knew my wiring was all funked up...I to redid my mpfi harness.....soldered everythng and it still did it.....at this point you can see i was extremely irritated....ive been outta my car for a week now and I too have school and job....

Well today I had nothing better to do so I went over everthing....and it ended up being a simple ground...on the starter some how it had come loose I tightened it up and bam...so while I was out there...I also went ahead and cleaned up a bunch of stuff and fixd some sht I left undone when I did the swap...now Im not throwing any codes....and it runs great....only problem now is my overheating....

BTW...I live in chicago...and ive got a extra pm6 ...I used it when I was working on my car having an extra ecu laying around is a great thing....ive still got the pm5 aswell...

 

yeah car starts fine. at 4K and above tach jumps all over. today it'll hold an idle then just kill on me. i re did all the wiring etc everything is brand new, plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, ignitor. ecu throws no codes at all. im completely stumped. onlything i can think of it ecu.

 

yes i am

 

welp, manuals say that crappy running could be a fuct injector. perfect time to throw the 450cc dsm ones in. however none of that explains why the tach jumps around like a stubbed toe victim

 

put in the 450cc jectors in. leaned out everything by %45 on the afc still sucks. car dies studdered hesitates runs like **** an no power.

 

k, rewired everything at the ecu (all splices/modded connections etc) and the afc. now suddenly the car idles at 1000rpm. keep in mind my car isnt suposed to hold an idle. suposed to bounce from 1-2k curdossy of some fuct up evac or map sensor or something. anyway idles at 1k kind rough dont know what thats about.

havent started the car since the ecu re wiring im afraid it'll still suck.

 

damn man hella problems!!! maybe the actual dizzy is bad! borrow a friends and throw it in there.....and it bogging could be from your afc wiring....so hopefully fixing the wiring will help!! on my setup my VAFC was hitting my ecu cover plate and it would make my car not start! and now my car will bog if i hold it at like 15% throttle and throw a map code?!?! it sux i have to go and solder all my vafc connections.......good luck!

 

yeah rewired all of that. car sems to run slightly better. tach still jumps all over and it wants to die. i actually had some power from it today but only after 5K which is weird. ecus fuct or the dizzy is stupidly fuct i dunno

 

i say get somone to let you use their dizzy and try a different ecu.

 

my car had some weird problems like that and all it was was the ground on the thermostat housing. i ended up grounded it on the chassis. thats all i can think of.

 

yeah buying a new dizzy today $200 if thats not it im checking grounds. everything looked ok but you cant really tell after 14yrs. ecu im sure is fine. when they **** up they throw their own code


[Modified by TorteX, 2:52 PM 10/1/2002]

 

check grounds before buying dizzy. sounds just like what happened to me after my b16 swap - turned out to be two loose (not disconnected, just loose) grounds - the thermostat housing ground and the vtec oil pressure switch ground. I found this after spending $150 to have the dizzy rebuilt...

Eric

 

ive blown like 500 this weekend on ****. its either beind sold or returned if it doesnt help. plus my current dizzy sucks

 

the hatch runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i think i may have fuxoed the valve job a bit car makes power in weird places. all mid range. fuel is a bit weird to tune now b/c of the NA set up w/ 450cc jectors. actually have to lean it out only by 20% on idle which is rich as **** imo but .5-.6 on the a/f meters. not done tuning wont be for a while. im not running any msd ignition and i think i miss it a lot. however id like to get this beast working well before i give it more spark

oh yeah btw is was a fuct dizzy. not ignitor not coils (ya went thru a few ) something else in there that didnt throw any codes.


[Modified by TorteX, 7:22 PM 10/1/2002]

 

Why are you running 450cc injectors???

Those really are overkill unless you are running a built CRVTEC, or a FI motor.

 

because hes crazy it wasnt the problem anyways he has them leaned out so its not running 450cc's

 

Why run 450cc's and a SAFC if you don't have to. All it is going to do is complicate things. I wouldn't do that until I had to.


[Modified by HXMan, 8:55 PM 10/2/2002]

 

all of the service manuals which described my problem pointed twards fuel even thow in the back of my mind i knew it was ignition. if figured since my stock 240cc jectors had 180 rounds om em i might as well swap em out. i had 450's chillin for the b20 turbo set up. so i put em in.

tuning w/ them is a bit harder to do b/c of their flow rate and the fact that their slow to open and close. they're coming around nicely today (after 2 days of sparatic tuning). i wasnt consirned w/ the fact that the car was running rich as **** b/c i was glad it was running.

what ive learned:
the stock 240cc injectors blow. you can only richen the mixture slightly with them since they flow at around 85-95% stock depending on how clogged they are from normal use. however you can lean them out just fine.

the 450cc injectors can run rich as **** or basicly as lean as you want. you *can* lean them out by more than -40% w/o throwing codes. you can actually turn them completely off (or wayyyyyy to lean to use) w/o throwing any codes at around -45 to -48%. the only down side of thse injectors is that they're slow to open and close. you can compensate for this by setting your low and hi throttle points very close to each other (mine is at 50% low 51% high). also your low settings should be close but not identical to your high settings to compensate for the injectors opening slowly. ie hold at 4K 5% throttle then floor it. it used to hesitate like a momfo. however the a/f was changing so fast i couldnt quite track its current voltage (no data logger) during that instance. it felt like fuel kill but poped like your running rich. however w. adjusted throttle points and curves you can compensate for this just fine.

and yes it does compicate things but then again their isnt really anything simple about my car

also ignition timing is retarded 1* instead of advanced 5 and my coil isnt on (and yes you do notice a nice difference w/ a coil, i did atleast) retarded timing tend to screw w/ low end performance but gives nice high. however high end was better w/ it advanced. cars slowly getting back to where it should be, just takes time


[Modified by TorteX, 4:13 PM 10/3/2002]