1989 honda accord lx intermittant problem
I had this car sitting for about a year in the street untouched.
I recently had to start to use it again so I replaced the battery,
plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filters, and oil change. It's running
pretty good except every other day on the highway on the way to work,
it starts to stutter when I give it gas and wants to stall. What
I discovered to do is throw it in neutral and rev it up 2 times
than put it in drive and it's back to normal. The car is carburated
and I have sprayed the carb with cleaner and put cleaner in the
gas tank. Anyone have any ideas?
I recently had to start to use it again so I replaced the battery,
plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filters, and oil change. It's running
pretty good except every other day on the highway on the way to work,
it starts to stutter when I give it gas and wants to stall. What
I discovered to do is throw it in neutral and rev it up 2 times
than put it in drive and it's back to normal. The car is carburated
and I have sprayed the carb with cleaner and put cleaner in the
gas tank. Anyone have any ideas?
I had this car sitting for about a year in the street untouched.
I recently had to start to use it again so I replaced the battery,
plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filters, and oil change. It's running
pretty good except every other day on the highway on the way to work,
it starts to stutter when I give it gas and wants to stall. What
I discovered to do is throw it in neutral and rev it up 2 times
than put it in drive and it's back to normal. The car is carburated
and I have sprayed the carb with cleaner and put cleaner in the
gas tank. Anyone have any ideas?
I recently had to start to use it again so I replaced the battery,
plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filters, and oil change. It's running
pretty good except every other day on the highway on the way to work,
it starts to stutter when I give it gas and wants to stall. What
I discovered to do is throw it in neutral and rev it up 2 times
than put it in drive and it's back to normal. The car is carburated
and I have sprayed the carb with cleaner and put cleaner in the
gas tank. Anyone have any ideas?
Sorry for the delay response, my computer was down. Anyway, I already had both fuel filters replaced when I had the leaking gas tank replaced. This was done about a month ago. The other day the same thing happened while driving on a local street instead of the highway. It started bucking and than stalled. It starts right up and once I pass 1500 rpms, it gives up, bucks and stalls. I was able to drive and keep driving at around 1200 rpms
by playing with the gas and than about 15 minutes of that, the problem just went away
by itself and the car started driving like normal. What the heck is able to fix itself??
Also, about a month ago, I threw in a bottle of slick50 carburator/injector cleaner and
the car ran pretty good after that. Could it be the fuel pump is on the way out
and intermittant?
by playing with the gas and than about 15 minutes of that, the problem just went away
by itself and the car started driving like normal. What the heck is able to fix itself??
Also, about a month ago, I threw in a bottle of slick50 carburator/injector cleaner and
the car ran pretty good after that. Could it be the fuel pump is on the way out
and intermittant?
I do not have the tool that will check. I would have to go to a mechanic.
I didn't know this car gives codes? Is there even a check engine light?
I know it has a low oil dummy light, but that wouldn't be sent by an ecu, right?
Well, I had this problem 20 minutes non stop yesterday and all day of
driving it was fine today. I just know it's gonna happen again. It happened
to my wife the other day and she pulled over, revved the engine up
and down in park a few times and it went away on its own. Today I put
water remover in the tank and maybe next fuel up I'll put fuel line cleaner
again. Other than clean the fuel system, I can't think of anything else
that would be so intermittent?
I didn't know this car gives codes? Is there even a check engine light?
I know it has a low oil dummy light, but that wouldn't be sent by an ecu, right?
Well, I had this problem 20 minutes non stop yesterday and all day of
driving it was fine today. I just know it's gonna happen again. It happened
to my wife the other day and she pulled over, revved the engine up
and down in park a few times and it went away on its own. Today I put
water remover in the tank and maybe next fuel up I'll put fuel line cleaner
again. Other than clean the fuel system, I can't think of anything else
that would be so intermittent?
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It's an LX, right? It's not going to throw any codes then. I doubt you're having fuel-delivery issues. It sounds like there is a vacuum leak somewhere. Or there is some kind of a sticky dashpot on the carb. You're going to have to start looking into some of the systems on the carburetor.
Check the main relay. It controls the fuel pump, and can go out intermittently. This is just what my '90 LX was doing, and it turned out to be a main relay. The part costs about $50, so when you dig it out (from up under the dash on the '90), pull the cover off and check the circuit board. Over time it will get a little cooked and the solder points can come loose, especially in varying weather (like right now).
If you're handy with a solder gun, you can fix it yourself, or just get a new one. It's a pretty quick job once you find the relay. That's the next thing I would check. It's a fairly common problem, and a tad cheaper to replace than the fuel pump.
If you're handy with a solder gun, you can fix it yourself, or just get a new one. It's a pretty quick job once you find the relay. That's the next thing I would check. It's a fairly common problem, and a tad cheaper to replace than the fuel pump.
3rd gen LX and DX do have an ECU that will give codes.I can go out side and take pic's if you need....
No need to go anywhere to check for codes, it is free and takes all of 3 min.....push the drivers seat all the way forward. Stick your head behind the seat on the floor. Open the little plastic window covering the ECU, pull from the top-you'll see a small red led light. Turn the key to on/position II. Put your head back behind the seat and see if the light is flashing, if so count the number of flashes.
Streetside- If this is a carb'd model. There is not the "main relay" found on the FI models. There is a relay for the fuel pump but the do not fail like the "main relay" on the FI models...heck I can't remember ever replacing the fuel pump relay on a carb'd Honda.
No need to go anywhere to check for codes, it is free and takes all of 3 min.....push the drivers seat all the way forward. Stick your head behind the seat on the floor. Open the little plastic window covering the ECU, pull from the top-you'll see a small red led light. Turn the key to on/position II. Put your head back behind the seat and see if the light is flashing, if so count the number of flashes.
Streetside- If this is a carb'd model. There is not the "main relay" found on the FI models. There is a relay for the fuel pump but the do not fail like the "main relay" on the FI models...heck I can't remember ever replacing the fuel pump relay on a carb'd Honda.
Last edited by poorman212; May 14, 2011 at 07:04 AM. Reason: spelling.......what is new
Indeed it can be a fuel issue, but try to check for any loose electrical connector, battery cable, the main fuses by the battery under the plastic cover. The coil wires, to the coil and from the coil to the spark plugs.
Woops. I should have read more closely. I didn't know it was carb'd. Ma bad.
The other day it happened the worse ever. It stalled out so I started it up. I tried to rev it up but it didn't have enough power to go over 3k. I opened the hood, sprayed the carb with carb cleaner tried it again, same thing. I disconnected the battery, waited 30 seconds, reconnected the battery, started the car, still same thing. Than, I noticed if I keep tapping the gas and keep it under 2k, the car moves forward. So I hit the gas, let go, hit the gas, let go and I was driving. If I hit 2500k, the car would shake and stall. After about 20 minutes of tap the gas and let go, everything went back to normal
and I started driving again normally. Next time, I'll check those fuses by the battery. Any other ideas after hearing alittle more of whats happening?
and I started driving again normally. Next time, I'll check those fuses by the battery. Any other ideas after hearing alittle more of whats happening?
Maybe check for clogged idle jets, or idle circuit inside the carburetor. Sounds like if you pump the gas, then the carb is able to provide fuel via the accelerator pump and that might be all it can run on below 3000rpm. At higher RPM, the main jets take over, which may not be plugged.
Does it get worse when the gas tank is empty vs. full? or with the car parked on a steep slope compare the response you get when the tank is higher than the engine or lower than the engine.... this is the easy way to check for a weak fuel pump.
Not too sure about your engine year, but is it the fuel pump next to the distributor or is it electric?
Not too sure about your engine year, but is it the fuel pump next to the distributor or is it electric?
89 LX, the pump is elect and in the tank. To check/test/change there is a panel in the trunk -left/driver side- you pull up and you are there......peronally I've only replaced a pump in one of these after letting one sit without starting for over a year.
So this not in reference to that last reply but i got a question i have an 89 accord 4cylinder fuel injected how can i get more power out of the motor i have an after market intake already any sugestions whats cost looking like as well
Caminero88- Do you still need help, sorry I don' get to this section that much....PM me if you are still needing help and I will do what I can.





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