Pads & rotor or not?
As you know, (newer) Hondas wear out the (rear) brakes superfast. I'm a few months from DIY.
Normally, when you (pay) to do brake work, you would check the roters and resurface them if necessary.
I can tell if a brake pad is worn. How can one tell if a brake roter is warped? Ok, there is the obvious, like physical damamge. But the eyes can't always tell.
I can take them to a shop to have them machine it. If I was going to do that, I might as well have them do the entire service.
Advice-tips-tricks. TIA
Normally, when you (pay) to do brake work, you would check the roters and resurface them if necessary.
I can tell if a brake pad is worn. How can one tell if a brake roter is warped? Ok, there is the obvious, like physical damamge. But the eyes can't always tell.
I can take them to a shop to have them machine it. If I was going to do that, I might as well have them do the entire service.
Advice-tips-tricks. TIA
If they vibrate they're warped (or there's some dirt between the back of the rotor and the hub) To check to see if it's the rear drive about 40 - 50MPH and pull the ebrake up part way, if the rear of the car starts shaking the rotors are warped.
Rotors really aren't worth getting turned Drew. Once they're turned there's less material to dissipate heat and then they warp even faster.
Also, as far as those rear pads go, when I worked at Honda we used to clean the anti-rattle clips in the pad holders up really well (personally I like a brass wire wheel on a drill) and lubricate them (neverseize or brake lube will work here) and we'd grind the ends of the new pads slightly so they would slide freely in the holders. Do this and make sure the slid pins are free and lubricated with brake lube (don't use neversieze here, it will turn to cement in a couple of weeks) and they'll last a lot longer.
Rotors really aren't worth getting turned Drew. Once they're turned there's less material to dissipate heat and then they warp even faster.
Also, as far as those rear pads go, when I worked at Honda we used to clean the anti-rattle clips in the pad holders up really well (personally I like a brass wire wheel on a drill) and lubricate them (neverseize or brake lube will work here) and we'd grind the ends of the new pads slightly so they would slide freely in the holders. Do this and make sure the slid pins are free and lubricated with brake lube (don't use neversieze here, it will turn to cement in a couple of weeks) and they'll last a lot longer.
Last edited by 94EG8; Apr 20, 2011 at 07:56 AM.
Rotors do not commonly warp. Like 94EG8 was saying, dirt and debris at the hub interface can cause runout, which is misinterpreted as warped rotors. You can observe runout with the wheel removed but lugs holding the rotor (you may need to get open lug nuts or washers to make this work). Rotate the rotor by hand and use either a dial indicator or just watch the rotor position in the caliper bracket. if it wobbles, there is runout. Clean the mating interfaces. Most shops would run a wheel lathe at this point and mask the real problem.
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