I am getting ready to put together a CRX, I have been told that the HF is the lightest of all the CRX and that the 89 had a better suspension than any of the others (plus its the body design I like) I was planning on a turbo, but the things I am not sure on is the engine I should put in there, I was tossing between a B18C5 (but have been told that VTEC and High Compression make it bad for turbo), a B18c1 (but have been told it wouldnt be reliable with a turbo) or the B18b which I have been told will be the most reliable since this will be a daily driver.... I plan on getting forged internals and contemplating NOS, (I like the intercooler coolers that use NOS and possibly a plate) any help that you can give would be appreciated.... I want to get the best of the best but keep it streetable and reliable as possible.... need help picking turbo kits and so forth......

 

You need a deep wallet and you need to use the search function.

B18C5= one of the best engines to tubro. ever. High compression will you give you more HP with less boost.

Good Luck with research

Blaze

 

 

The HF is the lightest, and the 88 should have the better rear suspension



Stop reading Super Street

 

 

Hey punk I like Super Street haha.


Hey dude, just read a lot on here and you'll gain a lot of knowledge, and you'll have a plan in no time.

 

my friend drives his 93 hatch daily and it runs 11.3s lsvtec turbo if that counts since its not a crx but anything is possible

 

My pockets are deep enough for this project.... and I dont read super street, I tend to stick to technical journals since that is closer to my career.... which turbo kit would go along best with the B18c5, also, would it be reliable boosted? I have two other cars should it break down, but I would rather it not if it can be avoided

 

is that 11.3 on slicks or street tires?

 

why are trying to build the fastest streetable crx? are you planning to street race?

too many things you have to account for if you want to really do this. best advice is to stick around HT, and learn from the other members on what works and what doesn't.

btw, if you do have the wallet for this project, can i have some to help me with mine?

 

lensos with slicks....daily driven on drag radials

 

LOL.... I have been street racing for years, started with a 1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme (oldschool muscle), a mustang, a F150 and a buick century (no one respected it, which made it the funniest one to run with, but once it reved, people were scared) I figured a CRX is the lightest thing possible, a friend once said, "there is no substitute for volumetric efficiency" so I figured a 300hp rollerskate (as he put it) would fit into that catagory quite nicely he also says if I build it he wont race me in his LT1 trans am..... but I dont seem to be getting any help picking out the best of the best..... if the B18c5 is the best for turbo, whats the best turbo kit I can get for it?

 

try going to http://www.revhard.com IMO they are they best

 

i would say go with a tubular manifold, a shop around here called AMS makes them for about $400, with either single or dual wastegate setups. i have no idea how to mate turbo's to displacement and compression, lots of people like T3/T4's or T3/60-1. check the forced induction forum. if you are going to build a motor in the first place, i would not recommend the B18C5, i would say go with either the C1 or the B18b. my preference would be the GSR motor because it has a better built valvetrain than the non vtec motors. nitrous is also unnecessary on a forced induction motor because it will raise the compression levels so much while under boost that it will cause the motor to blow. (if not very carefully tuned)
a standalone should be your first purchase, AEM makes a nice plug and play computer that is a steal for only $1400. (haha)

 

why r u worried about what year has the best stock suspension? whichever year u get you will need to replace the stock suspension N E way. there is a big difference in weight between the d15's and the b18c5. plus the stock suspension on any of the cars is probably aged and needing a replacement any way. I love my 91 hf. I'd say go with the B20 turbo.

 

How much money you plan on spending? If its only like $5k then you'd might as well dream up something else.

 

Ok, I didnt want to let this out just yet but This is my plan and It is the best build up possible, bottom line So just listen... OBD-1 (of course) B18c1, get a stroker kit to make it like a 2.1 or something like that... rebuild the head using a turbo ready set of cams, and in doing so you will have to do the valvetrain too... I am going Skunk2... A greddy turbo kit will do you just fine... With the GSR motor and the stroker kit and perhaps a greddy head gasket you will get a low compression which means more boost. The higher displacemant and say about 12 PSI of boost will put you back really far in your seat. Now get the Vtec to kick in around 3800 or 4000, this is where you will need it most (right before the turbo spools up to full bost). And with your timing retarted properly, roughly .5 degrees per PSI of boost it should all fall into place... And like my buddy chris said, dont plan on doin it with out upgrading brakes and suspention... Oh and you will need to upgrade the ECU as well... This should have you running 11's maybe 10's if you boost up further and add some octain booster... With a low enough compression and a high enough octain booster you could prolly run 17 PSI... But test and tune first...

Now that I spilt the beans, dont go stealing my ideas...

 

[QUOTE] And like my buddy chris said, dont plan on doin it with out upgrading brakes and suspention... [QUOTE]

thanks for the shout out kuz, but alot of ppl on H-T seem to think that 4000rpm vtec is too early (although I would disagree [mine being set at 4000] but to each his own) with a turbo early vtec might help get rid of some of that turbo lag. and why the hell r u so against any engine that is not OBD-1??

 

OBD2 is way too hard to tune right...

 

i m just giving u a hard time kuz, u have told be a dozen times about the problems working with an OBD-2 engine. Oh and by the way octane boosts are almost worthless, they only really boost the octane by like .5, they clean ur fuel injectors though. If you really want some high octane gas, hit up the closest airport and get some jet fuel (just be sure to take care of your cat and O2 sensors).

 

I wanted to use the CRX HF because it 1800 pounds, I plan on upgrading the breaks and suspension, but aparently the 89 has a different rear setup from what I heard, thats why I mentioned that, I plan on getting a roll cage (either 4 or 6 point) I want all forged internals and a large single turbo and some nitrous would be cool too.... I was looking to spend anywhere from 10-20k maybe more depending but I figured that would be enough to start with, add more things later stereo upgrades and custom paint and body kit, but I wanted to put about 10-15 in the engine itself..... if that answers your questions I just wanted to get the best I could...

 

madman do a lot more research and also take about half of these suggestions and forget them.most of these guys don;t know what they are talking about.talk to local shops and people at the track,that is where you get the most ACCURATE information.and like i always say good luck

 

wouldnt that put a ton of stress on the block? is there a company that makes more solid blocks, like a forged block? or would that be overkill? then the only other thing would be which tranny could hold that much power without blowing.... and does anyone know a good site to get ideas for a custom paint job?

 

Word....

You want a fast CRX, and you have deep pockets.....Only one thing comes to mind.

Turbo B-series - 2.0L VTEC... Nasty combo

2 ways to go about this. Both route are fully built engines.

Choice A)

84mm B18C -- Forged rod/pistons, Sleeve by GE or Darton/AEBS. GS-R cams(best OEM VTEC cam for boost most agree), 10:1 c/r, balanced out to 9K or so. T3/T04E(.63a/r hot side--60 trim cold side), T3/60-1 or if you're a big spender a GT30

Choice B)

84mm B18A/B w/ Vtec Head -- LS block w/ 84mm sleeve by Darton or GE, VTEC head(B16A w/ GS-R cams), Forged Rods/Pistons(10:1 c/r), Balanced out to 9K or so. T3/T04E(.63a/r hot side--60 trim cold side), T3/60-1 or if you're a big spender a GT30

Either of these will put you in the 400+ whp range with a relatively low amount of boost(14psi)...However both use high compression which gives you less room for tuning error. Unless you're running a Hondata or a Zdyne Standalone you're a complete moron. Also either on of those setups will cost you at least 10K to get.....The GT30 turbo alone will run close to $1300..

 

the 88 year crx has a different rear suspension setup than the rest of them. something to do with a trailing arm, i kinda forget. but it allows passive rear steering. it was taken out because people complained about it, but i believe that it had the best handling due to the passive rear steering. if ne of this is wrong call me on it, cuz like i said...i forgot