Wheel hop is preventing me from dipping into 13s. Last two times out to the the local track i cant get a good launch due to mad wheel hop. I know the car has the power and potential to run hight 13s. I have Progress coilovers with 500 rear and 350 front spring rates. I have been debating a traction bar and replacing all the rubber bushings in the front suspension since it has over 140k on it already. Engine setup is b18c1 block with itr slugs, stock gsr head, stock IM, stock cams. rdx 410cc injectors, aem CAI, 4-1 PLM header with 2.65" collector to a straigh 2.5" exhaust with a resonator and a vibrant muffler all tuned on aem ems. Trans consist of 1-4th gsr and 5th ls and LSD. I have been able to cut 2.1xx 2.2xx 60' times without wheel hop last year and 14.00x runs and this year i get insane amounts of wheelhop with more power since i am tunned. This is all in a 2200lbs striped dc2 chassie. Would slicks help much.? I knowof the line they will but what about the trap speeds? A friend of mines on his h2b ran faster trap speeds on street tires then on slicks. I believe it was like a .3 difference.
Thanks

 

The slicks probably helped your buddy lower his 60 foot times. A better 60 foot will lower your trap speed and your ET. Cant help on the wheel hop though, never had that problem.

 

Less wheel spin will sometimes equal to less mph at the trap speed. More wheel spin sometimes equal more mph. I'd look into a traction bar, it'll help a ton. Same with replacing the bushings. Are you wanting to run those times with street tires?

 

Yes i want to break into 13s on the tires that i am on right now. I had my tire psi set at 35 psi. The tires would just spin and not bounce. As soon as i lover the tire psi to 30 then 25. mad wheel hop. I will look into a traction bar and will be replacing the bushing. Now have to find the traction bar thread. and u are correct about the wheelspin thing. I notticed from todays track outing that with more wheel spin i would trap higher then with less wheelspin.
thanks

Other ideas are welcomed

 

very simple bro traction bars and drag radials or slicks. this problem as been adressed years ago for hondas. traction bars works and slicks have always and always will work with any drag car.

 

Energy suspension bushings have more of an affect on wheel hop than traction bars. Most people use traction bars for other means like mounting your radiator and pulling your wheels forward to get a more desired alignment.

Oh and drag radials suck for wheel hop! Bias ply radials are much better because they act more like a slick than a true street radial.

 

stock mounts?

 

traction bar! done

 

stronger engine mounts will help. i would not recommend running slicks without a traction bar. makes me cringe every time i see that.

 

and why is that? i have solid mounts on my integra and no traction bars, with stock bushings and it pulls a 1.62-1.65 60ft every time on slicks, and went 10's on stock axles. my old civic did the same thing. but to the OP, bushings and engine mount inserts will help a TON.

 

aftermarket motor mounts and slicks. without those 2, you will wheel hop your way to broken axles/differentials faster than you will make it down the track lol.

traction bars are bandaids for bad bushings IMO.

 

How does your alignment look???

 

yes stock mounts with energy suspension inserts on the tq mounts and rear mount.

I will order the energy suspension bushing kit for the front and replace it. Ive heard from a friend aswell that he curred his hopping with energy suspension inserts.

Friend has some slicks that ill be buyin of him and mounts are to damn expensive butt "***AVID*** TORQUE MOUNTS $90 SHIPPED! AVID STEEL MOTOR MOUNTS $140 SHIPPED!!" are they any good. I am looking into getting these for my current setup and so i will have engine mounts already for my 2.0L once it gets built. I found "full race traction bar fits eg,dc,ek" for agood price. Almost half of the original price
Thanks.

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I need an alignment after putting on the progress full coilovers butt i have been putting it off since my tires are needed to be changed in a few k miles and why spend the 50$ on the alignment on old tires.
Thanks

 

if your going to spend any money on anything....buy motor mounts. not tq mounts, motor mounts. the tq mounts just transfer vibration from the engine to the chassis. the engine mounts keep the engine from moving. the "hop" is because the engine is moving so much that its moving the axles, which move the spindle, which makes the tire shake, etc etc.

stiff mounts are by far the best for eliminating wheel hop. trans, rear, drivers side mounts are the 3 you need to be most concerned with. if those 3 mounts are solid...there is no need for the tq mounts, since the engine will never move enough for them to come into play right? right.

 

False

 

honestly the best upgrade you could do is buy some real slicks.

u wont get any wheel hop at ALL and u will be way more consistent.

 

Slicks. (close thread)

 

I saw several cars at idrc fontana launching, and the slicks look like they were going to hit the fender @ the body. guessing it's due to no traction bar, and worn control arm bushings.

 

the stabilizer bushings in the energy suspension kit will help with that also, i put traction bars on my hatch when i had it and it didnt help wheel hop at all. put energy bushings in the whole frontend and it stopped completely

 

I figured since i can fab up things on my own and save posibly half a grand that will go towards my b20v. I will fab up mi own traction bar and my own solid engine mounts. Shuldnt be that hard since i have the proper tools, welder and access to a machine shop. Will be replacing all the busshings in the front tough asweel. Thank you guys for all the help/ideas.

 

get solid motor mounts and some slicks

 

Not really the technical explanation i would expect from the pro's at KaizenSpeed, but to each their own.

Were you meaning to tell me that, the movement of the motor/trans, and subsequent movement of the halfshaft/axles arent causing the spindle/hub/wheel to move....directly affecting the amount of traction the tire may/may not have???

because the way i see it, if a tire is static...in order for it to move, it must have a dynamic force applied to it. when you let out the clutch and initiate that dynamic force, whats the first thing to move? ...engine, then axles, then wheel/tire. the initial load causes a spin (traction) then traction causes an opposite load, which goes back to the axle...instead of the axle holding strong and resisting movement (or snapping) it transfers that movement to the trans/motor, which rocks in its mounts...that transfer back and forth (oscillation) keeps loading and unloading the axle, which causes the spin/stop/spin/stop motion, or wheel hop. (IMO)

its funny because when i was racing the integra in my sig, the first 6 times in a row i brought the car to the line, i snapped an axle on launch, or got a few feet out before it started wheel hopping and snapped an axle.

i was running some cheap-o motor mounts (yanaka) i swapped those out to some Innovative 95a's (highly recomend btw) and didnt break a single axle after that. both before and after the mount swap, i was launching on slicks.

i still stand by motor mounts, followed by slicks, as being the best wheel hop eliminators.

 

spindle/hub will not move due to the engine moving.

they are secured in place by ball joints that are attached to the control arms. the control arms are held in place by bushings at the shock tower and cross member.

further more there may also be radius rods holding the LCA in place



none of those should move if the motor and trans move.



how ever if the motor is rocking back and forth that can add to wheel hop because the forced placed on the axle will not be consistent.

 

so if thats the case, how do you explain me breaking 6 axles in a row, and wheel hoping like crazy with **** mounts, and not breaking a single one, and never a single experience of wheel hop after the 95a mounts?

i know for a fact the mounts stopped my wheel hop issues..........why?

 

Do you have an upper strut bar?