how is everyone breaking there clutch in for drag only cars

i have a comp cltuch stage 5 and it says 300 mile break in

the car its in is a drag only car

whats the best way to break the clutch in?

 

i never "broke in" my comp stg 5 clutch. i put it in and drove a little around town then it saw the track.

 

We broke in my friends stage 4 clutch with normal driving... Prolly did about for like 30 miles at most... And took it to the track the next day...

It only has a Stock k20 in it... So with the lack of power its holding up fine for now...

 

I don't know about strictly drag cars, but I would put some "city" mileage one the clutch. I've pulled a stage 4, 4 puck comp clutch out at about a month of dd, and it didn't look fully seated. about 3/4 of the pucks were touching the pressure plate and flywheel. I think clutches need to wear in to the mating surfaces before they get their max clamping force.

 

i have no way of driving the car on the street, no tags, and open header all motor car

 

rent a dyno and "break it in" on there..?

 

My previous clutch was slipping.. Got a new CC stage 5, slapped it in and went straight on the dyno.

If it got a mile of par-throttle on the dyno it was lucky, then it started to see some boostt. lol

Never had any issues with it.

 

Rent out our dyno and toss it on for break in.

 

I have a CC stg 4 in my b18c1. Put it in, drove it for a few mintues to make sure it was operating smoothly, then hit b00st!!!

 

Google search. " top fuel car seating clutch "

 

Ive never "broke in" any of my clutches. Put it in, put it on the dyno

 

bolt it in and run it. break it in like your going to drive it.

 

I hope some of you don't run your motors like you do your clutches lol. Most manufactuers have a "break in period" for a reason, they have done the R&D on their product. I know if you don't break it in "properly', most of the companies will void any warranty. Also to those that are saying look how top fuel cars do it, the funniest thing is most of those cars are putting new motor/transmissions in the day after their races, so to them they don't care if they destroy ****. To a novice racer like 95% of this forum is, **** breaks, it starts getting expensive and annoying having to tear your car apart and replace ****, idk thats just how I look at it, to each their own and you'll hear 20 different theories, just like "how to break in motor, and what oil to run"

 

motor,tranny and clutch had ZERO miles.. lmaooo

let that $hit idle for 20 minutes and on the dyno it went! (still running in another car as we speak from 07)

 

I thought I read somehwere that the STG4s didnt need a break-in period. I never broke mine in either got it the same day too they sent me a Bseries disc then I got the right Kseries one bolted in and did about 25-30 dyno pulls between n/a and nitrous tuning. Never had a prob with the clutch and it's a daily driver.

 

the only thing you dont want to do is "glaze" the mating surfaces. other then that just beat the **** out of it and go.

 

I could be full of myself and not knowing what im talking about, but I believe with a ceramic clutch there is not the same break in needed as an organic disk.

 

I use to think that you have to break in a clutch until I saw a 9 second civic change his clutch at the track and ran 9's again. Since then I haven't broken in my clutches and they have lasted a very long time. This current clutch I've had for a year (act 4 puck) with over 20 track passes and 40 dyno pulls and over 500whp no issues. Hope it helps

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but don't some clutches say to slip a few times to "break in", such as a twin disk? Other then that most usually have a specific break in period and are usually dicks when it comes to warranties lol. I will have to look at the paper work that came with my comp stage 5 to see what they have to say.

 

Within minutes of running the rings are seated and ready to go. If not the motor was built wrong. Break them in like your going to drive it. Make sure everything is adjusted,feels good, and sounds good then give it the beans

 

get to the track put it on jack stands let it idle for couple of mins then in gear ramp from 3,000rpm to like 7,000 rpm for a couple of mins the different heatt ranges should mesh up the clutch and flywheel then you are ready to run it

 

What I do with mine and what I tell my customers that have a race car they can't drive around is to put the car in 2nd gear, hold the ebrake and slip it a few times with the ebrake holding the car back a little. You don't need to do it too hard and it only takes a few times to seat the disc if done right. I do not suggest to just put it in and run it. I have done that before just to test that theory and it slipped really bad in the burnout box and got it so hot it warped the plates.
Keep in mind, this is only for metallic clutches. If it is an organic or kevlar disc, you really do need to put some miles on it.
We don't need to be comparing seating a clutch to seating piston rings. They are completely different animals.

 

I was under the impression a dynamometer was designed to break motors and clutches in!

 

We offer a break in service to customers on my dyno, $50

For rings [which I know isnt the same at clutchs], I just cycle the step load feature on the dyno and vary the throttle. Check every 10 min with a compression tester, then leak down when finished.