hows it been H-T..
i recently bought a 91 si off some kids who pulled thier B series out to put in a rex. anyway i have a daughter on the way so i just need a daily drver..
It had no engine, harness, or ecu/relays when i bought it. i put this P.O.S.all back to stock 100% and it will not f**kin start. it is not getting any power to the fuel system at all ( no voltage or anything) any help would be great..
i have already checked out the obvious, ( main relay has been replaced and i have 2 pm6 ecu's that i know work becuase they started my brothers ef just a few days ago) please help driving me crazy!!!

 

anyone ever "hard wired" or ran the fuel pump directly off the battery..??
i just figured i would have to start it right away to avoid flooding out the combustion chamber.
OH and how can i test the pump directly, or with a battery. which of the 4 wires?? if anyone knows. not trying to short anything out... and that would tell me alot if i does not power.
anyone!?!?!?

 

so no "techs" on honda-tech huh...???
not even a littl advice...

 

Pull of your back seats(takes about 20 mins) you will see yoru fuel pump assembly, get a voltage tester and see if your getting volts to the pump. that would be my first step. check grounds, check fuel pump fuse, or look into replacing pump would also be considered in my opinion.

good luck.

 

thanx for the help man but already tried that there is NO signal to the pump at all not even continuity between the signal wires... however i CANT get the pump to run with a dierct jump from a battery so i am not doubting that it is bad, but why would there be no voltage OR continuity!?? ALL grounds and fuses AND relays are fine...
is it possible that the ignition switch could be bad... ive heard that if it is bad it will not send signal. but ive had one go bad on me and my pump still primed.
so not too sure.... anyone???????

 

Where are you checking for continuity? What end to what end? Odd that there's isn't continuity but if there really isn't then that's definitely a big problem.

 

Right!!?? im not sure what the colors were but i went by mitchellon demand..
and thats what i thought...no continuity, then there has to be an open circut right?? well i pulled and cut the wrap off of all the wires expecting to find a burn or cut or something but there was NOTHING!! so im stumped. im not a new to engines or swaps with these lil things but im just trying to make this thing stock and drivable and it is giving me more problems then anything else so far.
but correct me if im wrong...no continuity would mean that there is incomplete circutry (or an open circut) right??

 

Yes that's correct. No continuity is an open (or dead wire but I've never actually encountered that before). So are you testing from fuel pump connector to main relay or ECU? I don't know what the circuit looks like from memory but check from single wire segments separately so you can isolate if it's a component causing the open or if it's a break in the wire itself.

If you don't already have one, download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). It will contain the procedures on how diagnose/troubleshoot everything. It'll also have what plugs/connectors should have voltage, this will help ALOT in determining where you problem will be.

 

THNX 24ten!! will do
i do have FSM's and the wires ive been checking to my memory are the ones from the main relay (becuase to my knowledge they run from the ecu to the relay then to the pump...).
thanks again. ill keep ya updated, gonna do some troubleshooting after work..

 

oh, and do you maybe have any assumptions about the ignition switch???
or does it not have anything to do with it( i know obd1 and up does but not to sure about these older fuel systems..)?

 

okay... im almos positive its the fuel pump, im about to pull the gas tank but my main concern is that its NOT the pump, i mean has ANYONE ever seen a bad pump not even turn on!!??? ive had two pumps go bad on me and even then they both turned on, they just sounded horrible. i have the day off and am trying to do some troubleshooting (as well as take care of my prego wife lol) but i am trying to figure out..if maybe the pump shorted possibly and is not recieving the voltage or what!! any input would be great!!
Cmon i know im not the only one who has had this problem b4...

 

Check your grounds, more specificly the ones in the engine compartment around the thermostat. since it had a swap done i'm putting my money there.

 

Thnx BROODWICH. ussually the culprate but not this time lol
so far all relays (and the extras ) are all good. both ecu's test fine (in other cars) and my harness is giving off proper voltage and continuity! i checked the voltage coming from the relay and ig. switch and they are all reading right so im perty sure its somewhere between the relay and the pump... (at work but ill keep yall posted on the progress!)
thanks again and if anyone has any more idea, lets hear em'!!

 

Okay... no luck
i got the pump working on a direct line from the battery tho, but before i go through with putting it on a switch i have 1 ??
If its on a switch, wont the pump be on direct flow and flood out the combustion cham.??? or is that only if i have it on without the car running???

 

Main relay???

 

That's what I first thought too, no voltage to the fuel pump, I pulled out the Main relay and re soldered the contacts, problem solved.

 

chewed up fuse box wiring (short) fixed everything still no spark?? hahahaill figure ytht one out ha

 

no spark maybe a bad ignitor or coil. you did say it had a Bseries before right? did you switch all the wiring back for a single cam engine?

 

lol this probably isnt it but this happened to my rex si my clutch pedals stopper broke so it wasnt pressing the clutch switch to start the car pulled my starter out changed my relay all kinds of **** only to find my clutch pedal wasnt pushing in the button

 

Bit of a donut move for a somewhat vetran