new crx vt project

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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
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Default new crx vt project

lo.

some of you remember the last crx build we did (mugen kitted b20 powered rootbeer crx)
jsut a heads up that we are now on a new project (full bare shell re0build)

only had the car a couple of weeks now and we have been working away like no tommorow (ie: working 8.30-5.30pm then going and working on the car )









sharpies donor car:







inner and outer arch fun :











solid sills though










what was under the paint on the arches:























time to see jsut how bad the rot really is, hello 4.5 inch grinder with cutting sick (went through it like a knife in butter!) anyway lots of rust and some muppetts bodged the arches up (welded right over the rotten metal making life much harder for us to sort)




































Last edited by redsolturbo; Apr 12, 2011 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Default Re: new crx vt project

so after to rust (cancer) was cut out time to get fabbing new parts and metal. was lucky to have most of 2 inner arches left over from my mugen rootbeer crx build so i put them to good use, still had to fab the rear section up from scratch!









































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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Default Re: new crx vt project

yes my welding is crap compared to sharpies (then again he is a welder by trade lol)

time to start grinding with a crinding disk and a 40 grit flap wheel











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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:13 PM
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Default Re: new crx vt project





time for last bit of rot (hooray!)























anvil time

















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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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Default Re: new crx vt project

and yes thats how you make a ef civic rear arch pannel fit a crx

next time to grind the outer welds flush (honestly i hate seeing idiots jsut tacking a pannel on and then filling over it with bondo or pannel glue, seam it all the way up you mincing fairys then grind it flush! yes it will distort a little but its better than a pannel "glued" onto the car)



















still got some high spots so will be mashing it with a hammer then breaking out the lead sticks and the blow tortch to lead load it, will also add lead where the rear bumper meets the rear arch and shape that up.

got a pot of 2 part epoxy paint in a tin ready to go over it all after which will seal that metal up (its the higest solid content paint i can get, and it works out about $80 a liter!, buts its the best as far as im concerned when it comes to sealing metal) used it before and you can run a nail point actoss it and it wont even toutch it, plus its overpaintable with 2k
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