I have finally finished installing my turbo setup on my b16; however, when I try to start the car, it does not start. I first tried to start it with my 780cc injectors, but that did not work. I then tried to start it with my stock injectors; it also did not work. Also, during my first attempt to start it, I found a large puddle of fuel leak under the car. The leak is coming from the injectors I believe. I am also not sure if I connected my resistor box to the correct wires that showed conductivity. I tried using a cheap multimeter but no wires showed followed the same example as this:



I'd really like to get this running to get it to my tuner asap. Please help me. I am stuck as to what to do for trouble shooting.

 

I also forgot to mention that I have my walbro 255 pump installed already. Would prevent the car from starting up? I have no idea how to fix the fuel leak also. I connected my injectors the same way I removed the stock injectors...

 

try using just the stock injectors and the stock ecu.

 

thanks for the reply.

I already have my stock ecu plugged in and tried my stock injectors.

I don't think my walbro pump is engaging. How do can you tell if it is?

Also, when I turn my ignition to the "on" position that is when my fuel starts to leak. I took a picture from where the fuel sprays from which is circled in the blue.

 

Try the stock ECU. But i had the same problem, turns over just wont start! I had a wire from my resistor box that came loose. If ur wires are not properly connected from your resistor box to your injectors it wont start cause your not getting any fuel

 

Take it apart and seal it back up then, stop the leak!

 

are you missing an o-ring under it? leaky return line?

you can usually hear the fuel pump kick on when you cycle the key. but if its leaking fuel when you turn the key to ON, its definitely working.

did you remove the resistor box when you plugged the stock injectors back in? (i assume you're obd1)

 

I just reinstalled the fuel rail. The spray is coming from that bronze cap to where it says "NR." Does this mean it needs to be replaced?

Also, I'm going to go out and buy a more suitable multimeter. This cheap pep boys one is not giving me any kind of glow for conductivity. When you test the dead clip do you have the ignition turned to the "on" position?

 

I did not remove the resister box at all. I still have it installed with my stock injectors. Should I put my 780cc injectors in? or remove the resistor box. I thought that was the problem it would not start at first since my ecu was not chipped or anything.

 

Put ur 780s in, make sure you have it hooked up right. Replaces the seal thats leaking fuel. Im pretty sure its not gonna run though with a stock ECU and if it does its gonna bog down and more than likely die on you when u try to stop ( to much fuel for the stock map )

 

Ok. Thanks.

Im going to remove the resister box and solder the wires back up and keep my stock injectors in. Im trying to start my car so I can drive 15 miles to my tuner. Will this work ?

 

Yeah ull be fine, just dont rev it very high and dont spool ur turbo

 

that is your fuel pressure regulator....if it leaking it needs to be replaced.

 

If the "bronze" part is leaking, you will need to replace the whole fuel pressure regulator (FPR). They should not be that expensive.

The car will not start on the stock injectors unless you remove the resistor box and rewire it back to stock.

It may not be firing due to a huge loss in fuel pressure due to that leak.

 

Thanks for all the responses everyone.

Ok, so I finished soldering my dead end clip back together; I removed the resistor box.

Now, to solve this fuel leak from my fpr. The leak was not coming from the "bronze" cap of my fpr, my mistake. It is spraying out where my fpr meets the fuel rail. I took a picture of my fpr, and I think the problem may be because there is not a rubber ring in the center? Could that be the issue?

 

yes you are missing the o-ring

 

alright! So, we got some progress

Fixed the fuel leak from fpr to fuel rail. It was the O ring. (Stupid me for something so simple.)

I got my stock injectors installed and then got my resistor box uninstalled. Now I went to start the car up and it started up real quick but then died again. Now it just won't start at all. Perhaps not enough volt from battery?

 

That or your plugs are fouled. Take the plugs out clean them up blow some air on them the get the fuel off put them back in then try.

 

sounds like its not getting fuel now.

 

or to much fuel, hence starting then stalling if it wasn't getting enough fuel it most likely wouldn't turn over to begin with.

 

you wont get a car to crank with 780's and a stock ecu.

nor will you get it to crank with stock ecu/injectors and a resistor box

 

I have my stock injectors installed and my resistor box removed.



So, came back from testing my battery at autozone and pepboys and battery is healthy at 90%. I just removed my spark plugs from the engine to turn the engine over. Now, when i try to turn the engine over, there is no "pause" I guess you would call it. I have done a compression test before and it does not sound the same. It is just one long sound of the car trying to attempt to start.

Here is a little video of what I am referring the "pause" to. It's a random compression test I found on youtube, but it does not sound like this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pck8bYqCnw0

I am stuck and don't know where to go from here :\ please help. Also, Thanks for everyone that is helping!

 

I am not sure if it makes a difference, but I have my spark plugs gaped to .30

 

did you disconnect the dizzy before spinning the motor over with no plugs in. and have you checked for spark?

 

That's the problem! No spark ! thanks !!!

So how do I fix that? I know there is a "coil" inside the distributor but that's as much as I know :/. Also, I have to test it with a multimeter?