Hey guys,

Does anyone know if the factory alignment settings change when you install the HFP suspension kit? Not sure if Honda provided updated values with the HFP kit, or if they should remain unchanged from the factory settings.

Also, (as a side question), does anyone know how close our EP3 alignment settings are to the UKDM Type-R, or the JDM Type-R?

Thanks!

 

anytime you change suspension or adjust ride height you will need to get an alignment

 

Someone asked this before on ephatch.com and I thought it was interesting.. he found out the specs for HFP showed 0' camber but how can that be?

 

I'm aware of that. I was asking if the HFP Kit came with different alignment specifications than factory due to its lower ride height, and different spring rate / compression/rebound specs.

Regardless, thanks for posting.

Not sure, but this might be reason enough to speculate that there ARE different alignment settings required for HFP equipped vehicles. I wonder if there was any documentation that came with the HFP kit that would state these values? ...

 

i would assume that it would per it being a different setup than what you would get from factory but idk the answer you are looking for, sorry...i would try posting in the suspension sticky, if anyone would know best it would be mustclime

 

Got it!

HONDA HFP FACTORY SPECS

FRONT: CAMBER - 0 deg. 45’ + 45: TOE IN;: 0 mm + 3mm; CASTER: 1 deg. 35’ + 1 deg.
REAR: CAMBER: - 1 deg. 15’ + -45’; TOE IN: 2 mm + 2/-1 mm; CASTER N/A;

Took me over an hour to find that ...

Thanks for replies!

 

Here's the next question ....

I'm not exactly thrilled about the front camber setting.

Does anyone know if bringing the front camber in by -1 is acceptable? I'm not looking for anything too aggressive, nor do I feel like burning out the inside track on my new tires, but to me 0 degrees camber in the front = understeer.

Car has Eibach camber adjusters in the front, OEM 2003 swaybar in the front, and RSX-S 21mm swaybar rear. HFP full suspension kit.

 

I would throw your car on an alignment rack and see what the actual camber values are... $10 bucks say its not at 0" degrees currently.

Oh and thanks for posting the HFP specs here for future reference for other users.

 

ft camber is not really adjustable in stock form, You want more camber? Pick up doe camber plates or some camber bolts.

 

Have camber adjusters on there already.

So I suppose the general consensus is that setting the fronts to -1 is acceptable? Everything else looked fine to me ... slight tow in on the rear for some stability, nothing too aggressive. The fronts are a bit tricky, and for me it's finding the balance between aggressive turn in for lapping days, and accelerated tire wear during daily driving. As stated, I just got a brand new set of Z1 Star Specs, and I don't feel like replacing them half way through the season.

Turboteg: You're probably right, their most likely not a 0 at all. But I do get a wicked pull to the right on throttle lift right now, so god only knows what the settings are. Car is going from winter mode to summer mode, so needed to sort out a good alignment baseline to start the season with.

 

Star Spec nice pick up... very sticky!

 

0 front camber in front makes no sense. 1 in the rear and you'll just understeer. Surprisingly 0 is what I've heard for Aspec too.

You should get camber bolts in front; I got SPC and run 1.4 but will re align and run more. YOU MUST IMPACT THEM. then just run natural camber in rear

 

Already have Eibach camber bolts in the front, so I'm ready to rock.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "Impacting" and "natural camber" ... can you please elaborate?

Also, at -1.4 in the front on your car, do you notice accelerated wear on the inside block of tread? I'm trying to find a good middle ground as the car still does see the daily commute.

Thanks for your reply.

Dave: Yes sir! These are my first set, as I've been on RT615's for the past 5 years or so. Looking forward to see what these tires can bring to the table.

 

I have those tires too. They're super sticky, I always hear rocks/gravel flinging up off the road. I've put about 10k miles on them and they're starting to get slippery compared to new.. still way better than my stock Michelins.

 

didn't notice any premature wear other than the beating my former 2 fronts took after an Autocross. (then I rotated). OEM specs run up to 1.3 so you're safe. you won't notice a neg impact on tire till you hit 2 really.

impacting; if mine aren't impacted with an impact gun, they will move.

natural; whatever that drop gives you will be enough, maybe too much actually but its non adjustable. if you dont autoX/track it, don't worry about rear.

 

Not sure about the Ep3 but it is very common for the DC5 guys to run -2.5 in the front for auto X and such, because the McStrut(MacPhearson) supsension is set up so poor on our cars that you will not gain ANY negative camber when the suspension compresses, and this will inhibit handling. On the street -1.5 is considered ideal for handling and tire life. With a toe setting of "0" you will get about 30k before you start to exhibit tire wear.Of course it really depends on the type of tire. But despite popular opinion, camber causes very little wear. I rock RT615's and I buy a new set every year. Never have uneven wear and my camber is -1.5 frnt -1.0 rear. I dont Auto X much anymore, so these are my DD values.


Head over to Club RSX there are some HARDCORE auto X'ers who can give you really good advice and tips for alignment settings. I think there may even be a sticky for alignment settings.

 

All mac strut cars have this problem(bmw's, 911's,mini'sect)...the real issue is the lack of caster...Caster turns into camber as the wheel is turned. BMW showed the world this back with the e30 m3, they redesigned the strut towers so they had over 6 degrees of caster and they killed everyone in the german touring car races....Honda thought they could get around this with all the 4ws designed into the suspension on the ep3/dc5's...look at the 8th get civics and you will see they have almost 6 degrees of caster....so I guess honda saw the light.

Btw, I have read the main reason honda gave us so little caster is they were worried that the angled back struts would be forced int the caben in the crash tests( not sure how true this info is)...so your car handles like poop because honda loves you and didn't want you to take a strut to the face in a bad crash.....

 

Awesome. Thanks guys! Much appreciated.

I've done some poking around on club RSX and a few other sites, and have decided on the following specs:

Front:
Camber: -1.5 deg
Toe: 0
Caster: ?

Rear:
Camber: -1 deg
Toe: 0
Caster: N/A

To be honest, I'm only having issues with Caster settings. Seems to be the least talked about out of the alignment specs. The HFP spec reads: CASTER: 1 deg. 35’ + 1 deg, although I'm not sure exactly what that means. Can anyone help explain it to me?

Thanks again guys.

 

Looks like you already have found the answer, but some where I have seen an actual Honda document that listed alignment specs, with the "Honda Factory Performance" seal at the top or bottom. I believe it was with the installation instructions for the hfp suspension.

 

Right but BMW, Porsche etc, have tuned out the innate problem with the McStrut suspension set up, and they handle really well. Honda however dropped the ball with this set up on the RSX, EP3 chassis. And youre right I forgot to mention that caster is also needed on these cars and can only be done correctly with an aftermarket kit.
It should be in the CRSX site. They talk alot about caster. Even which kits are used best. Bad Andy and Temptezan Mark are a couple of names off the top of my head, that you should search under. This FAQ has most of the info you need.


This guy is good as well.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=408267