d16a6 rebuild
hey I'm rebuilding my d16a6 I got I'm gona keep it a daily driver I just want a little more power cause my d15b2 feels like I'm driving in slow mode anyone know any good rebuild kits also I heard the zc pistons, rods, and cam are a good upgrade but I want it to pass smog in cali will it matter if I put thos in? or should I stay wit stock internals and just do new rings and bearings. im tryna keep it under $350 no ebay parts thanks
updated 4/15/11
going with fj hi compression rebuild kit
got some oil in #3 cyclinder rest doesnt look to bad tho



updated 4/15/11
going with fj hi compression rebuild kit
got some oil in #3 cyclinder rest doesnt look to bad tho



Last edited by Rickdogg; Apr 14, 2011 at 04:25 PM.
hey I'm rebuilding my d16a6 I got I'm gona keep it a daily driver I just want a little more power cause my d15b2 feels like I'm driving in slow mode anyone know any good rebuild kits also I heard the zc pistons, rods, and cam are a good upgrade but I want it to pass smog in cali will it matter if I put thos in? or should I stay wit stock internals and just do new rings and bearings. im tryna keep it under $350 no ebay parts thanks
o about the engine.so I can build the motor up a little andbe good on smog
Trending Topics
bro it will cost you more than 350 to rebuild that motor. water pump, oil pump, timing belt, and the gasket kit puts you way over 350.
Fluids, misc parts, machine work, labor for the person who puts everything together and gas time needs to be considered.
IMO just buy a used low miles vtec motor and slap it on
Fluids, misc parts, machine work, labor for the person who puts everything together and gas time needs to be considered.
IMO just buy a used low miles vtec motor and slap it on
bro it will cost you more than 350 to rebuild that motor. water pump, oil pump, timing belt, and the gasket kit puts you way over 350.
Fluids, misc parts, machine work, labor for the person who puts everything together and gas time needs to be considered.
IMO just buy a used low miles vtec motor and slap it on
Fluids, misc parts, machine work, labor for the person who puts everything together and gas time needs to be considered.
IMO just buy a used low miles vtec motor and slap it on
If you know how to and have access to those work, then ask yourself this.
Pay 400 for a 0 miles rebuilt engine OR pay 400 for a used long block with an unknown mileage(of course you dont believe how many miles the seller says, come on...).
actually i rebuilt my D15b7 engine roughly around 350-400. If you are doing the work yourself, its definitely reachable to rebuild an engine for that price.
If you know how to and have access to those work, then ask yourself this.
Pay 400 for a 0 miles rebuilt engine OR pay 400 for a used long block with an unknown mileage(of course you dont believe how many miles the seller says, come on...).
If you know how to and have access to those work, then ask yourself this.
Pay 400 for a 0 miles rebuilt engine OR pay 400 for a used long block with an unknown mileage(of course you dont believe how many miles the seller says, come on...).
I worked at shops that would rebuild a customers engine if they wanted to do so and at the shops cost in parts surpassed $350.
$50 to rework the crank
$150 bore/deck/hone
$40 resurface head
$200-250 for all the gaskets and seals
$50 water pump
$100 oil pump
$50 timing belt
then you need bearings, washers, pistons, rings, wrist pins, rods and what about the head?
then... after you get all the parts and lets just say you put it together yourself, you now need to wire the vtec (another topic), get a ecu, and top off the fluids... what about the clutch? the trans?
remember if you reuse any old parts then your motor doesnt have 0 miles
^Alot of that is dependent on where you go for the work, the actual condition of the engine being rebuilt, and the cost of gaskets (big variable depending on brand: ebay vs dealer vs parts store vs classifieds). And one crucial factor that some might have and others won't is a hookup either on the parts themselves or the labor for machine work. Bottom line though (and I'm sure anyone who has actually rebuilt a used engine of unknown condition would agree), you should be prepared to spend more than you anticipate because you can't always see everything that is potentially wrong with it.
I worked at shops that would rebuild a customers engine if they wanted to do so and at the shops cost in parts surpassed $350.
$50 to rework the crank
$150 bore/deck/hone
$40 resurface head
$200-250 for all the gaskets and seals
$50 water pump
$100 oil pump
$50 timing belt
then you need bearings, washers, pistons, rings, wrist pins, rods and what about the head?
then... after you get all the parts and lets just say you put it together yourself, you now need to wire the vtec (another topic), get a ecu, and top off the fluids... what about the clutch? the trans?
$50 to rework the crank
$150 bore/deck/hone
$40 resurface head
$200-250 for all the gaskets and seals
$50 water pump
$100 oil pump
$50 timing belt
then you need bearings, washers, pistons, rings, wrist pins, rods and what about the head?
then... after you get all the parts and lets just say you put it together yourself, you now need to wire the vtec (another topic), get a ecu, and top off the fluids... what about the clutch? the trans?
i will be doing the work myself so it should save mw some money ill just pay for the resurfacing
Last edited by Rickdogg; Apr 7, 2011 at 02:48 AM.
Most important thing to do if you are serious about the rebuild is to figure out what condition the motor is in.
It may not be worth rebuilding or may be way out of your budget
Reworking the crank, bore (if it needs it), hone (that you can do yourself, but you will need the tool), and resurfacing the block and head aren't really things you can do on your own and you should leave it to a shop.
If it needs a bore then you are going to need new pistons.
If you ever plan to add a turbo, nitrous, etc then you should be looking into rods - LS rods would probably be cheapest route - for added strength.
If you are dealing with rods and pistons then the wrist pin should be put on by a shop as well since they have the equipment to do so without micro-fracturing the piston.
As long as your internal work doesn't change compression ratio then you won't have to worry about smog check... it will come out looking stock.
The valves may be looking toasted and you won't want to skip over those after you get the bottom end reconditioned.
At the very least you would want to replace the valve seals if everything else looks decent enough to use.
This will eat up your $ fast unless you get a craptastic job done on the cheap.
Normally you get what you pay for.
Last D motor I rebuilt had a bore job new OEM pistons, valves, bearings, and seals.
It's been a while, but I think I spent about $750 and did all the assembly labor myself.
It's not cheap to do it right. $350 would be amazing.
It may not be worth rebuilding or may be way out of your budget
Reworking the crank, bore (if it needs it), hone (that you can do yourself, but you will need the tool), and resurfacing the block and head aren't really things you can do on your own and you should leave it to a shop.
If it needs a bore then you are going to need new pistons.
If you ever plan to add a turbo, nitrous, etc then you should be looking into rods - LS rods would probably be cheapest route - for added strength.
If you are dealing with rods and pistons then the wrist pin should be put on by a shop as well since they have the equipment to do so without micro-fracturing the piston.
As long as your internal work doesn't change compression ratio then you won't have to worry about smog check... it will come out looking stock.
The valves may be looking toasted and you won't want to skip over those after you get the bottom end reconditioned.
At the very least you would want to replace the valve seals if everything else looks decent enough to use.
This will eat up your $ fast unless you get a craptastic job done on the cheap.
Normally you get what you pay for.
Last D motor I rebuilt had a bore job new OEM pistons, valves, bearings, and seals.
It's been a while, but I think I spent about $750 and did all the assembly labor myself.
It's not cheap to do it right. $350 would be amazing.
Most important thing to do if you are serious about the rebuild is to figure out what condition the motor is in.
It may not be worth rebuilding or may be way out of your budget
Reworking the crank, bore (if it needs it), hone (that you can do yourself, but you will need the tool), and resurfacing the block and head aren't really things you can do on your own and you should leave it to a shop.
If it needs a bore then you are going to need new pistons.
If you ever plan to add a turbo, nitrous, etc then you should be looking into rods - LS rods would probably be cheapest route - for added strength.
If you are dealing with rods and pistons then the wrist pin should be put on by a shop as well since they have the equipment to do so without micro-fracturing the piston.
As long as your internal work doesn't change compression ratio then you won't have to worry about smog check... it will come out looking stock.
The valves may be looking toasted and you won't want to skip over those after you get the bottom end reconditioned.
At the very least you would want to replace the valve seals if everything else looks decent enough to use.
This will eat up your $ fast unless you get a craptastic job done on the cheap.
Normally you get what you pay for.
Last D motor I rebuilt had a bore job new OEM pistons, valves, bearings, and seals.
It's been a while, but I think I spent about $750 and did all the assembly labor myself.
It's not cheap to do it right. $350 would be amazing.
It may not be worth rebuilding or may be way out of your budget
Reworking the crank, bore (if it needs it), hone (that you can do yourself, but you will need the tool), and resurfacing the block and head aren't really things you can do on your own and you should leave it to a shop.
If it needs a bore then you are going to need new pistons.
If you ever plan to add a turbo, nitrous, etc then you should be looking into rods - LS rods would probably be cheapest route - for added strength.
If you are dealing with rods and pistons then the wrist pin should be put on by a shop as well since they have the equipment to do so without micro-fracturing the piston.
As long as your internal work doesn't change compression ratio then you won't have to worry about smog check... it will come out looking stock.
The valves may be looking toasted and you won't want to skip over those after you get the bottom end reconditioned.
At the very least you would want to replace the valve seals if everything else looks decent enough to use.
This will eat up your $ fast unless you get a craptastic job done on the cheap.
Normally you get what you pay for.
Last D motor I rebuilt had a bore job new OEM pistons, valves, bearings, and seals.
It's been a while, but I think I spent about $750 and did all the assembly labor myself.
It's not cheap to do it right. $350 would be amazing.
If your block and head are both resurfaced then any head gasket will work.
However, the quality of an OEM headgasket is pretty amazing. Everything else in the kits are trivial and getting OEM really isn't necessary.
However, the quality of an OEM headgasket is pretty amazing. Everything else in the kits are trivial and getting OEM really isn't necessary.


