I swapped a 2000 B20b into my 95 hatch. I used the dizzy, tranny, intake manifold, wiring harness, and alternator from a B18b. I'm also using a pr4 ecu. I just finished the swap tonight and it wouldn't start. I cranked it and it made this weird "pop" sound, it still cranks, but will not start. I hard wired a "4 wire" 02 sensor in using a guide I got from here and I got no check engine light. I really hope I didn't break a rod or valve, I'll be doing a compression test on it tomorrow, but if anybody has an idea of what might be wrong PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!

 

The fuel pump primes and I have spark. I ordered the engine from jdmautoparts.com, they told me to drop some oil in the spark plug holes to help seal the piston rings, which I did. I tried to crank it by hand and I hear this metal-on-metal scraping sound, I'm thinking one of the piston rings blew, but I'm getting a compression tester tomorrow and I'm hoping the results don't point me in that direction.

 

Nobody has any any useful information?

 

Why are you using a Pr4? Shouldn't it be a P75 ecu? Mind you I don't much about swaps.

 

same computer^^^ different stamp..if you hear metal to metal you got other problem bro...might want to pull the pan or valve cover see if everythin looks ok

sounds like your motor is out of timing..pop could have been from gas and spark at the wrong time thru the intake manifold

 

When I took the old intake manifold off a bunch of oil poured out, but i doubt that was it. Also, I can shift through all the gears without using the clutch, so I gotta pull the tranny off and fix that tomorrow. I'll do a compression test and see what's up with that tomorrow as well. I just gotta refresh my memory on how to do a compression test, it's been a minute, hahaha.

 

Problem solved! The arm for my thrust bearing didn't snap on to that little ball inside the tranny, that's why my clutch wasn't working and I couldn't get it to start.

 

check your firing order

 

Can you explain this?

BTW, it still didn't start D=
Compression test read 90 : 180 : 175 : 150
Something's obviously wrong, When I pulled my spark plugs the first two where covered in oil. I'm guessing that "pop" sound I described earlier was my piston ring? Is there anyway I could find out if my piston rings are bad without pulling off my head?

 

Leak down test.

 

^Wouldn't the leak down test just re-confirm that I have a problem? Should I just take off the head and get a better look at what's going on?

 

A leak down test will tell you where cyls 1 & 4 are losing compression. See section 5d in the FAQs sticky.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A-how-leakdown-test-%2A%2A-1491041/

 

.....And now I know, hahahaha, I'll pick up the tester tomorrow and go from there.
Any idea of what that "pop" sound might be? When I got the engine the delivery guy told me to drop some oil in each spark plug hole to help the rings seal better, which I did, but I have a strong feeling it might be that. And should I be worried about the piston reading 150, I plan on testing all of them tomorrow so I guess I'll just find out then.

 

Before you do leak down test, check the mechanical timing.

And yes, 150 is too low.

 

The pop sound might be from the dizzy make sure it's not 180° off

 

Maybe try and turn it over by hand again and listen/look down the plug hole

Did you look at your valves when you took the manifold off??

How much oil is 'a bunch of oil'?

Shudn't really be any in there............

Get an oil can with a spout and add about 3 or 4 squirts to any cylinder that reads below normal. Do the compression test again. If compression increases significantly after the oil is added your rings are worn out coz the extra oil seals them. If it doesn't compression must be leaking out the valves or gasket........

1 and 4 seem very low. Those pistons rise and fall together....... Maybe a cam had slipped some timing and you've had a collision. Did you check the belt and the timing marks while it was out?

 

I didn't check the belt, I got the engine completely stock, so I assumed the timing was fine. I'll check it out when I do the leak down test after class today.

It was no more than half a quart of oil, and all the valves looked fine to me.

When I crank it by hand I can hear a metal-on-metal scraping sound, I'm pretty sure it's the rings, I'll post the leak down test results later today.

 

The timing was spot on, and the compression test read like this: 1=35% with air coming out of the TB, 2 & 3 where below 10%, and 4 was at 25% with air coming out of the TB. So that means my intake valves are bad, I have some spare valves from my jdm b18b head, would they fit/work? Or would I be better off just buying new valves?

A buddy of mine was telling me if I put my b18b head on the b20b block it'll give me an hp boost, has anyone head of this?

 

B18/B20 HEAD ARE SAME...no hp boost..your valves are probably fine its your valve seals that need replacing
edit:your valves might actually be bent..just re-read what you wrote..slap the b18 head on

 

The b18 head has 2 bent valves, is there a way to tell if the seals went bad? I was thinking about just replacing whatever's busted on the b20 head with working parts from the b18 head.

 

I can't get the valve seals off, I tried everything
Does anyone know of a way how to get them off without heating them up? I tried the specialty tool and that didn't work either.

 

I just took apart the head and all my intake valves don't appear to be bent. The valve seals look good but idk how to tell if they're good or bad? The timing on the intake side was maybe 1/4of a tooth off, would that be the cause for my low compression test and leak down test?

 

Bumpppppp